Perhaps after the next election you will be able to get a factory replacement.
I believe Slavex is the user you guys are discussing.
I'm also contemplating some JB Plastic Weld that I was reading about in one of the US forums. Will depend on how my melting tests go.
I believe Slavex is the user you guys are discussing.
Pics please!
Sure, I didn't take many as I should have, but here is the concept of what I did.
I drilled 2 1mm holes from the front, above and below the crack (Red Circles)
Then sutured it together with .032 aircraft safety wire twisting it to tighten it. Then melted the twisted end into the front of the trigger guard. (Purple Line)
Then melted a couple dimples on the break to help seal it together.
The slide removal lever retention spring was a little tight in there and didn't seat all the way back in, so it's got a little more pressure than stock. Probably could have trimmed 2mm off the bottom and been fine.
I tested the JB Plastic Bond and it worked amazingly to adhere to the frame, so I coated the repair in it and let it dry overnight. I've just sanded it and am going to repeat that process a couple times to make it look a little bit cosmetically better. Probably wont' go too crazy though and just be happy it's structurally solid. On the next coat I'm going to experiment using some clean sandpaper to texture it just before it hardens and see what that turns out like.
View attachment 776020
In hindsight, the JB Plastic Bond probably could have been used to just seal the break, but It's definitely isn't going to come apart now.
Sure, I didn't take many as I should have, but here is the concept of what I did.
I drilled 2 1mm holes from the front, above and below the crack (Red Circles)
Then sutured it together with .032 aircraft safety wire twisting it to tighten it. Then melted the twisted end into the front of the trigger guard. (Purple Line)
Then melted a couple dimples on the break to help seal it together.
The slide removal lever retention spring was a little tight in there and didn't seat all the way back in, so it's got a little more pressure than stock. Probably could have trimmed 2mm off the bottom and been fine.
View attachment 776019
I tested the JB Plastic Bond and it worked amazingly to adhere to the frame, so I coated the repair in it and let it dry overnight. I've just sanded it and am going to repeat that process a couple times to make it look a little bit cosmetically better. Probably wont' go too crazy though and just be happy it's structurally solid. On the next coat I'm going to experiment using some clean sandpaper to texture it just before it hardens and see what that turns out like.
View attachment 776020
In hindsight, the JB Plastic Bond probably could have been used to just seal the break, but It's definitely isn't going to come apart now.
Sure, I didn't take many as I should have, but here is the concept of what I did.....
The complexity is compounded more by the mere density of the plastics that Glocks are composed of using nylon 6 and it secret blend of this material that make this a rigid product. Glocks patent of this plastic is a guarded a secret which makes it harder to fix when it breaks.
If the plastic blend Glock uses is actually patented it cannot be a secret, that's not how patents work.