++UPDATE++ CZ Bren 2 MS Barrel in .223 Wylde COMING SOON

Hey Leigh, off topic question with regard to Dlask barrels but ON topic with regard to the Bren 2. Do you know if that little picatinny section on the bottom of the handgaurd is machined in? Or is it a mlok to picatinny screw-in piece? I figure you might know as I'm sure you've handled most if not all of the Bren variations we have.

It is integral to the handguard itself. The bonus with the legit CZ unit is it utilizes the same bottom support rail like on the short version, meaning it attaches using 6x M5 screws instead of the 4x used by the HBI unit. It is not just ROCK SOLID but also doesn't feel like a cheapo Chinesium AR handguard. That's just my $0.02 of course and we all know what opinions are worth these days !

But seriously ,if you find a proper CZ unit try it out.....so good.
 
This is the legit (and best looking) CZUB longer handguard :

View attachment 822005

This is exactly the same dimensions as the short version it is simply 'stretched' to a mid length. Our machined gas blocks do NOT fit into this CZ version.
How long is that handguard? Will these conversion kits have the same gas block location as the one in this picture?
 
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Some info for questions about hand guard lengths:

Just had the conversion done and this is the full length 18'' barrel with a 10.8'' HBI Handguard
 

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It is integral to the handguard itself. The bonus with the legit CZ unit is it utilizes the same bottom support rail like on the short version, meaning it attaches using 6x M5 screws instead of the 4x used by the HBI unit. It is not just ROCK SOLID but also doesn't feel like a cheapo Chinesium AR handguard. That's just my $0.02 of course and we all know what opinions are worth these days !

But seriously ,if you find a proper CZ unit try it out.....so good.
I'm going to pick up one of the factory NR rifles when they come in and they have that handguard. It looks great. I only wish it were longer. Going to break my "how much barrel I like to have exposed rule" but that's an unfortunate anomaly with NR rifles here.
 
Overall I am very impressed with the machine work on this barrel. It’s very nice. Here is a picture installed;
 

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However, I encountered a number of issues that needed or will need to be addressed.

The first issue I encountered was that the gas block was not on straight, noticibly leaning to the right. Fortunately with a clamp on block, loosening the bolts and giving some form taps with a soft hammer straightened her up. This was cosmetic, and probably wouldn’t have had much effect on function. However, this introduced its own minor problem.

Problem 2, which the gas block now straight, the head of the left gas block clamp screw is lightly touching the inside of the handguard. I will likely fix this by beveling the head of the screw lightly, unless DLASK offers another fix.

The third, and most important issue was that the gas block was not secured in the right place. When the barrel was inserted, the piston rod pushed the bolt carrier back by about 1/16”, which means when the carrier slams home, it would be slamming directly onto the piston and gas plug. Mucho No Bueno. Removing the piston spring, loosening the gas block and tapping it forwards until there was slight play in the op rod solved this potentially major issue. I made it have approximately the same play as the original barrel that was installed, roughly .005-.010”.

Minor things but these need to be noted and addressed, especially the op rod issue. That’s a recipe for pretty major damage to the gun when stuff eventually fails.
 
However, I encountered a number of issues that needed or will need to be addressed.

The first issue I encountered was that the gas block was not on straight, noticibly leaning to the right. Fortunately with a clamp on block, loosening the bolts and giving some form taps with a soft hammer straightened her up. This was cosmetic, and probably wouldn’t have had much effect on function. However, this introduced its own minor problem.

Problem 2, which the gas block now straight, the head of the left gas block clamp screw is lightly touching the inside of the handguard. I will likely fix this by beveling the head of the screw lightly, unless DLASK offers another fix.

The third, and most important issue was that the gas block was not secured in the right place. When the barrel was inserted, the piston rod pushed the bolt carrier back by about 1/16”, which means when the carrier slams home, it would be slamming directly onto the piston and gas plug. Mucho No Bueno. Removing the piston spring, loosening the gas block and tapping it forwards until there was slight play in the op rod solved this potentially major issue. I made it have approximately the same play as the original barrel that was installed, roughly .005-.010”.

Minor things but these need to be noted and addressed, especially the op rod issue. That’s a recipe for pretty major damage to the gun when stuff eventually fails.
I have the same issue with the gas block screw touching the handguard. I have the 13.8 HBI Handguard and it won't clear that.
 
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Yes. Dlask gas block too thiccc and doesn't work with either the CZ USA 16" model handguard (which I think is actually made by HBI for CZ USA?) or the CZ euro one which is more scarce here at the moment, pending the new NRs coming in.

No, incorrect. The larger diameter HBI produced unit from some of the U.S. sourced rifles it is ok and will fit. The narrow handguard which is basically just the short handguard but longer...that is the one that's too narrow.

The REAL CZ-USA guns have the NARROW handguard. The 922 compliant part is HBI.
Just to let you guys know, HBI was NOT the manufacturer for the handguard that came on the 16.5” American-sourced carbines.

Just trying to clear the air because HBI does produce their own aftermarket handguards.
 
However, I encountered a number of issues that needed or will need to be addressed.

The first issue I encountered was that the gas block was not on straight, noticibly leaning to the right. Fortunately with a clamp on block, loosening the bolts and giving some form taps with a soft hammer straightened her up. This was cosmetic, and probably wouldn’t have had much effect on function. However, this introduced its own minor problem.

Problem 2, which the gas block now straight, the head of the left gas block clamp screw is lightly touching the inside of the handguard. I will likely fix this by beveling the head of the screw lightly, unless DLASK offers another fix.

The third, and most important issue was that the gas block was not secured in the right place. When the barrel was inserted, the piston rod pushed the bolt carrier back by about 1/16”, which means when the carrier slams home, it would be slamming directly onto the piston and gas plug. Mucho No Bueno. Removing the piston spring, loosening the gas block and tapping it forwards until there was slight play in the op rod solved this potentially major issue. I made it have approximately the same play as the original barrel that was installed, roughly .005-.010”.

Minor things but these need to be noted and addressed, especially the op rod issue. That’s a recipe for pretty major damage to the gun when stuff eventually fails.
I just had a look at mine as well. It looks like the gas block is actually in the proper position based on where the hole is inside the barrel. The trunnion seems to not be lined up with that. I’m not sure if the gas block has to be perfectly lined up over the hole on the barrel to get the correct pressure or else I’d adjust mine too.
 

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I just had a look at mine as well. It looks like the gas block is actually in the proper position based on where the hole is inside the barrel. The trunnion seems to not be lined up with that. I’m not sure if the gas block has to be perfectly lined up over the hole on the barrel to get the correct pressure or else I’d adjust mine too.
I haven’t shot it yet, so we shall see if my adjustments cause problems. Check for piston protrusion and compared to the factory barrel. Make sure you carrier is not bottoming out on the piston when fully forward.
 
I haven’t shot it yet, so we shall see if my adjustments cause problems. Check for piston protrusion and compared to the factory barrel. Make sure you carrier is not bottoming out on the piston when fully forward.
Let us know when you shoot it! Interested to see if that adjustment works on the regular gas setting if it covers the hole a bit. Also, do you have a picture of the carrier bottoming out issue?
 
Let us know when you shoot it! Interested to see if that adjustment works on the regular gas setting if it covers the hole a bit. Also, do you have a picture of the carrier bottoming out issue?
The plan is to this weekend. Last weekend got wiped out unfortunately. I too am slightly concerned that moving the block may obscure the hole, but that’s a lesser and more fixable issue than leaving it as is. No picture unfortunately, but the piston noticeably protruded beyond the back step on the trunnion, something it does not do on the factory barrel.
 
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Amazing. Just to confirm, these will not work with the factory 11” versions of the Bren?
I have a CZ Bren2 ms. Love it. Gets heavier when more equipment is put on it of course; but it performed well at the range. Unfortunately it's restricted but great home defense weapon.
 
Some info for questions about hand guard lengths:

Just had the conversion done and this is the full length 18'' barrel with a 10.8'' HBI Handguard
is this the long gas system with the 10.8" HBI handguard?
I'm assuming, as the gas block is not in the open notch of that HBI hg

if you don't want the HBI 10.8" and willing to part with it, DM me
 
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However, I encountered a number of issues that needed or will need to be addressed.

The first issue I encountered was that the gas block was not on straight, noticibly leaning to the right. Fortunately with a clamp on block, loosening the bolts and giving some form taps with a soft hammer straightened her up. This was cosmetic, and probably wouldn’t have had much effect on function. However, this introduced its own minor problem.

Problem 2, which the gas block now straight, the head of the left gas block clamp screw is lightly touching the inside of the handguard. I will likely fix this by beveling the head of the screw lightly, unless DLASK offers another fix.

The third, and most important issue was that the gas block was not secured in the right place. When the barrel was inserted, the piston rod pushed the bolt carrier back by about 1/16”, which means when the carrier slams home, it would be slamming directly onto the piston and gas plug. Mucho No Bueno. Removing the piston spring, loosening the gas block and tapping it forwards until there was slight play in the op rod solved this potentially major issue. I made it have approximately the same play as the original barrel that was installed, roughly .005-.010”.

Minor things but these need to be noted and addressed, especially the op rod issue. That’s a recipe for pretty major damage to the gun when stuff eventually fails.
Seems like rushed this batch and completely forgot about QC. Now he's not even addressing it. Concerning to say the least after paying 1500...
 
Hey guys,

So leaving my review here because I believe this guy does honest work.

I didn’t have any fitment issues with my 16.5in CZ USA Bren2 and the whole thing together with the new barrel looks like it’s factory made. See pics. It maybe because I got the “fatter” HBI hand guard from CZ USA and not the thinner one.

I ordered the dlask barrel from their website on Sept 14th. Shipped by Sept 17. Few weeks prior to ordering it, I had messaged the dlask account on this website and the dude replied to me that a drop in barrel should cost ~$1400. He didn’t give me a timing for when the new barrel would be available and if they were even working on something like that. That was confusing but when it was available the pricing itself was not a surprise to me.

Removing the factor barrel assembly - I was able to remove the factory 16.5in barrel assembly by removing four screws on the hand guard. Two on each side. I pushed out the pin that mates the lower receiver to the upper receiver. The barrel assembly (including the trunnion and gas piston assembly) just slide out. The dlask barrel assembly just slides in and I pushed the pin back in after lining up all the parts. I then tightened all the four screws. Please note that I am not a qualified gunsmith and just a lay person. Caveat - Do not follow these steps or use this post as some sort of advice to do the same to your gun if you are not qualified to do so. Please read up on terms like headspacing and function checks.

Comparison-
Comparing the factory 16.5 in barrel to the dlask barrel, as expected the dlask barrel is heavier and on surface seems to me to be of similar if not better quality. The dlask piston assembly does seem better quality though. Their spring is thicker and stronger than the factory. The dlask piston rod seems a tad thinner than factory though. I didn’t take measurements. Overall, If the dlask barrel was stamped by CZ factory I would believe it. The new barrel on the gun looks like it is factory made to me. I am not a metallurgist but I do know that the CZ factory barrel is cold hammer forged because I read it on their website. I don’t believe the dlask barrel is CHF because its website page didn’t say that. CHF barrels have longer life but I am willing to sacrifice that in favour of accuracy. I believe Dlask did say in their post here that it is a match barrel. I have not shot with the new barrel so can’t comment on the performance.

Fitment - No issues. None. I have assembled Lego kits that have needed more finesse and elbow grease. I have also taken apart the C7 rifle and then reassembled it many times. This reassembled Bren2 with the new barrel gives me the same “feel” of the fit and finish of a reassembled rifle. I don’t have the dummy round to check the headspace but plan on doing so soon. I will of course take it to the range to test fire the whole thing but I haven’t done so yet.

Expectations - Exceeds. First time buying a custom gun part and I didn’t expect it to fit so well without any filing or nudging of pieces. I have bought custom parts for German cars that needed some persuasion. That’s why I am writing this review. It is possible that I have made a mistake in the assembly which someone here can advise. It can’t be this easy.
 

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