Ok…… 509-600 yards. I wasn’t too concerned with the definition of long range. Whatever any of you consider long range, be it 300-400-500 whatever. What do you like to shoot? I have plenty of prone type comfortable shooting opportunities here in Saskatchewan on whitetail at all kinds of ranges. I just want another rifle to complement my 30-06 cause buying rifles is fun.
What’s your go to long range hunting rifle
- Thread starter langbanger
- Start date
Your 06 is plenty capable. I killed a deer at around 550 yds with a 168gr Ballistic Tip from an 06.
The next logical step up from your 06 would be a 30 cal magnum, of which there are numerous different flavours. By "magnum" I mean a WM, WSM, PRC etc. The magnums should take you out to 1000 yds no problem.
If you want to go further, you will need to be looking at one of the larger format rounds like the 300 Norma Mag, 338LM etc.
A lot of the people putting limits on range and saying it shouldn't be done, likely haven't done it or even shot at any sort of distance. For the vast majority of shooters, 300 yds is long range.
From personal experience I can tell you that you will need to practice at distances way past the distance you plan to hunt at. For example, I did a lot of shooting at 800-1000 yds, so when it came to making a 500+ yd shot, that was a lot easier than what I had practiced at. Long range shooting and hunting requires a lot of practice regardless of what you are shooting at. Understanding the wind is a thing.
With respect to optics, I would say that anything in the 16x-24x range is sufficient and the 24x is the practical limit for magnification in the field. You will need a ballistic computer and some experience with how it maps your chosen round at distance. You will need a decent spotting scope. I use a spotting scope with a MIL reticle so the spotter can speak the same language as my rifle reticle and turrets. This will make corrections a lot easier.
Long range shooting is a team sport and long range hunting really demands a competent spotter. You will need to find a partner who is also a competent shot to help with spotting. Military sniper teams often put the best marksman behind the spotting scope and it is the spotter who calls the corrections.
You will need some means of accurately determining the range to the target. Range estimation is critical.
I'm a 7mm fan. So if I was in your shoes I'd be looking at either 7PRC, 28Nosler, or 7RUM depending on how much you like recoil and spending money on powder.
If you don't reload then 7PRC seems like the best option of the 3.
If you don't reload then 7PRC seems like the best option of the 3.
Okay, that opens up a whole bunch of cartridges that otherwise would not qualify.
Kills at that distance can be made consistently and efficiently with many 3006 based cartridges and the short mags, 300 mag. 7 mag, etc.
I have two rifles built for it. Both in .280 Remington.
I use a 2.5- 10x Leupold or a 6-18x
Both with target turrets .
Both rifles have been used to kill white tails and one elk out to 700 yards.
Cat
I use a Blaser K95 ultimate leather in 308 with a Zeiss Victory 2.8-20x56.
I used to do that as well.. until I came across a pack of wolves while moose hunting and blew 8” holes in the hides… no bueno.
banger of lang....I would think a very fun and effective deer bomber for what you just stated would be a 6cm running factory 108 eld-m match white box, wearing a maven rs.1 moa2 scope and a decent rangefinder that spits your dope out(or chart on the stock), I don't think tikka does the 6cm yet but that to me would be a lot of fun and you'd watch impacts in the scope and 600 might be almost too easy for that set up and you might have a ton of fun to 800 and still be very deadly
if that's what you're thinking, fun, easy to shoot, watch it happen etc. then this is plucked straight from my 'if I run into some play play cash' I might put one of these together, a rebarrel on tikka and chassis might bet the platform I go with also, sort of a speed goat gun is what you're describing and fighting the wind while watching it happen so you can hit em more than once, or take a couple coyotes, or correct quickly on a miss? prairie set up for deer size game....that's what I would build
I had to refresh on the 6cm vs 6.5cm, just ran some quick numbers assuming full 24" barrel and close to sk elevations...
6cm factory 108 vs 6.5cm factory 140, eld-m's
600 yards: 10mph Wind
108/140
2073 fps/1963 fps
3.3/3.3 moa wind
1030/1198 ft/lbs energy
800 yards: 10mph Wind
108/140
1819 fps/1743 fps
4.7/4.6 moa wind
794/945 ft/lbs energy
recoil energy in a 10 lb rifle
6cm/6.5cm
9.3/10.8 ft/lbs
so 6.5cm 140 has 16% more energy at 600 and 19% more at 800 but also 16% more recoil energy
if 600 is the goal on deer size game I'd maybe lean on the 6mm for that less recoil energy and higher impact velocity all the way to 600 for more Killy factor, I'd like try and build the gun around 12 lbs, chassis, bipod, then I'd expect to watch impacts in scope for sure and probably have more fun overall with it when shooting at any given time, development or on game, a tikka ctr in 24" if they chamber it? I like stainless so I may have to barrel or look at a gross savage or something, if rifle and bipod get to 12 lbs then 7.7 ft/lbs recoil energy, I know we were watching everything in scope at 6.5 ft/lbs recoil energy with 8.25 lb 6.5 Grendel throwing 123's so not sure I'd want the extra 16% of recoil of the 6.5 cm as you'd just have to add that much more weight to the rifle, I guess with a brake you could reduce recoil but does that added blast make you blink anyway and then needing muffs is also lame for hunting so I gave up on brakes long ago, to me so I'd rather just deal with it by weight and go 6mm instead of 6.5mm is where I would go to stay away from brakes and excessive weight
hope that helps
6cm factory 108 vs 6.5cm factory 140, eld-m's
600 yards: 10mph Wind
108/140
2073 fps/1963 fps
3.3/3.3 moa wind
1030/1198 ft/lbs energy
800 yards: 10mph Wind
108/140
1819 fps/1743 fps
4.7/4.6 moa wind
794/945 ft/lbs energy
recoil energy in a 10 lb rifle
6cm/6.5cm
9.3/10.8 ft/lbs
so 6.5cm 140 has 16% more energy at 600 and 19% more at 800 but also 16% more recoil energy
if 600 is the goal on deer size game I'd maybe lean on the 6mm for that less recoil energy and higher impact velocity all the way to 600 for more Killy factor, I'd like try and build the gun around 12 lbs, chassis, bipod, then I'd expect to watch impacts in scope for sure and probably have more fun overall with it when shooting at any given time, development or on game, a tikka ctr in 24" if they chamber it? I like stainless so I may have to barrel or look at a gross savage or something, if rifle and bipod get to 12 lbs then 7.7 ft/lbs recoil energy, I know we were watching everything in scope at 6.5 ft/lbs recoil energy with 8.25 lb 6.5 Grendel throwing 123's so not sure I'd want the extra 16% of recoil of the 6.5 cm as you'd just have to add that much more weight to the rifle, I guess with a brake you could reduce recoil but does that added blast make you blink anyway and then needing muffs is also lame for hunting so I gave up on brakes long ago, to me so I'd rather just deal with it by weight and go 6mm instead of 6.5mm is where I would go to stay away from brakes and excessive weight
hope that helps
12lb rifle and you're worried about 6.5CM recoil? lol
Is watching impacts in the scope necessary for this situation? I understand the usefulness in PRS etc, but I'm failing to see how that matters for a hunting rifle where the first shot needs to be on the money otherwise you run the risk of wounding game that will then take off and possibly never be seen again?
Is watching impacts in the scope necessary for this situation? I understand the usefulness in PRS etc, but I'm failing to see how that matters for a hunting rifle where the first shot needs to be on the money otherwise you run the risk of wounding game that will then take off and possibly never be seen again?
I sold my last 338 Lapua. In a hunting rifle it really gave me very little over the 340 Wby. Maybe 40-50 fps across most bullet weights. I may buy or build another for ELR targets though, still have all my reloading stuff for it. - dan
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fully read what I said, not worried recoil....but watching it all happen in the scope, which is super fun, and deadly for follow ups or multiple targets, there's a difference, when I want some recoil I can grab my 7 lb mossberg 940 pro and run some challenger slugs through it at close to 40 ft/lbs....when I want to watch bullets fly and impact the critters I can run my 6.5 Grendel ranch in the chassis at 8.25 lbs then add the 3/4 lb Harris 9-13" bipod and I watch the impact.....if he's already got a good 30-06 and he's look for a good prairie gun for deer size game at distances then why go for something that is as much fun as the 30-06 he's already got....do you have anything that you can watch it all happen in the scope? besides a .22? anyway, that's what I said...
and I see tikka doesn't make 6cm yet but savage has a couple models, one 9.25 lbs, and one 12.6 lbs, this would be my prone speed goat/prairie deer fun gun and a maven rs.1 moa2 on it in some mountain tech rings, I would expect to watch it all happen in the scope...and not much will make 600 yards a breeze out of the box rifle and ammo
https://savagearms.com/firearms/sku/57558
I would ditch the brake, add the Harris bipod, and watch it all in the scope with 108 eld-m, likely be around 15.25 lbs all up scoped with bipod.
or a more budget friendly
https://savagearms.com/firearms/sku/57137
but with the same scope/rings/bipod would only be 11.8 lbs...closing in on 8 ft/lbs recoil, may see things in scope well but if budget forces this then so be it, my first choice would be the first link and be amazing fun and see it all without a brake
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Ethics are based in opinions and emotion not fact, same as baiting for deer and bear, hunting deer with hounds, using. 22 centefires for big game , even archery etc.
You are entitled to your opinion , but one needs to realize that opinions are rarely universally agreed upon.
Cat
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I totally agree!
Watching bullet trace is essential to long range hunting, that is why a spotter that is profficient in what he does needs to accompany the hunter.
Reduced recoil of the rifle is not essential to a long range rig , it has been demonstrated many times in long range shooting and hunting . Brakes and/ or heavy weight rigs are the answer .
Cat
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Absolutely.
But who are we to judge what the OP is capable of? Pretty hard to call it unethical if you have no idea what the OPs skillset it.
Yes but that does not mean that it is unethical for others.
Many people aren't qualified to shoot a deer past 100 yards offhand, doesn't mean it's unethical for everyone
Cat
You're right, but your reply is also a misnomer.
The majority of hunters are qualified to make an ethical shot within 100 yards. The vast majority of hunters are not qualified to make an ethical shot outside of 800 yards.
I guess the bottom line is, it is unethical to take a shot where you cannot put the animal down. It's significantly more difficult to do that at 800+
i think there are two parts to the equation: shooter needs to be able to do their job, and rifle has to do it's job (put a projectile of sufficient mass on target at the range required with enough energy to expand the bullet).
i don't know skillset of the OP so focused my comment on the projectile aspect BUT, the way the question was originally asked does make one question the skillset aspect.
personally, i went with 300 prc to be able to move a larger bullet with authority without having to pay the 338 tax. lots of bullet choices in 308, and the longer cartridge allows for excellent BC.
it is for hunting so no benchrest rifle; browning x-bolt. so far i am a fan, but am learning to keep my teeth clenched so as to have all my fillings stay in place (has a brake but a light rifle that i wouldn't hesitate to take in the mountains so kicks a bit).
scope is a vortex SFP 5-25 (reticle can get big on a FFP scope at high magnification) with parallax, adjustable turrets, etc. 20 moa rail.
on the ethics aspect, it would have to be perfect conditions for me to take a shot over 300 yards; i've chased enough wounded animals, and seen enough youtube videos of thrillbillies gutshooting elk at 700 yards and thinking they did good, to never want to play that game.
i don't know skillset of the OP so focused my comment on the projectile aspect BUT, the way the question was originally asked does make one question the skillset aspect.
personally, i went with 300 prc to be able to move a larger bullet with authority without having to pay the 338 tax. lots of bullet choices in 308, and the longer cartridge allows for excellent BC.
it is for hunting so no benchrest rifle; browning x-bolt. so far i am a fan, but am learning to keep my teeth clenched so as to have all my fillings stay in place (has a brake but a light rifle that i wouldn't hesitate to take in the mountains so kicks a bit).
scope is a vortex SFP 5-25 (reticle can get big on a FFP scope at high magnification) with parallax, adjustable turrets, etc. 20 moa rail.
on the ethics aspect, it would have to be perfect conditions for me to take a shot over 300 yards; i've chased enough wounded animals, and seen enough youtube videos of thrillbillies gutshooting elk at 700 yards and thinking they did good, to never want to play that game.
It’s just not really what the post is about. What do you like to shoot at whatever range you consider long?
