Leather covered SxS butt pad in progress

[Longstud]

I think this is the type of leather covering Guntech is decribing. It was this way when I purchased this gun and I have no idea who made/installed it.

 

[mbatten]

Here's a demonstration by the one and only Larry P:

Also, you can read a great explanation of how-to in Ch. 11 of Shotgun Technicana by McIntosh and Trevallion.


I covered a Pachmayr pad a few years ago with buckskin (nice and stretchy):

 

[Londonshooter]

Also, you can read a great explanation of how-to in Ch. 11 of Shotgun Technicana by McIntosh and Trevallion.


I covered a Pachmayr pad a few years ago with buckskin (nice and stretchy):

Nice, Mark. I'm going to start again with a new pad. Can't be having those puckers and want to be flush with the wood as you have achieved.
Dewey Vicknair has some tips and beautiful examples on his gunsmithing weblog. In his usual caustic way he refers a job that missed the mark as a leather covered hotdog bun. JamesHarrison was kind enough to send me a .pdf as well from Double Gun Classics 2005 Vol 1, No 2

 

[Falconflyer]

Here are some examples of leather covered pads I have completed. Over the years I have covered thirty or so, mostly on high grade side by sides. The pad with the third open hole is a Perazzi and that is the access hole to remove the stock.

Nice work there Yikes3

 

[mbatten]

Nice, Mark. I'm going to start again with a new pad. Can't be having those puckers and want to be flush with the wood as you have achieved.
Dewey Vicknair has some tips and beautiful examples on his gunsmithing weblog. In his usual caustic way he refers a job that missed the mark as a leather covered hotdog bun. JamesHarrison was kind enough to send me a .pdf as well from Double Gun Classics 2005 Vol 1, No 2

Thanks John.

Hard to be content with a 'hotdog bun' unless you're watching a ball game! I found the most challenging job was to sand the pad slightly undersize to accommodate the thickness of the leather. Slow, steady and patience required here.


This vise-held fixture secures the pad for stretching the leather, then does the 'lining' around the pad's edge. It's just a washer on a bolt with smaller diameter washers underneath to adjust the height. Heating the metal a little helped to impart the lines on the leather (note scorch marks).

Looking forward to seeing your completed job!

 

[yikes3]

Nice work there Yikes3

Photos are of the various tools and procedures I use to cut, form and leather wrap the plugs along with the tool I made to form the lines around the perimeter of the base of the pad.
I am happy to answer any questions if needed.

 

[ParksPipes]

So the line around the base is an impression, that’s neat, makes sense

 

[Londonshooter]

So the line around the base is an impression, that’s neat, makes sense

Yeah, I couldn't do that because of the puckers.
However, I got it now! Be prepared to be amazed Mike.

 

[Londonshooter]

Photos are of the various tools and procedures I use to cut, form and leather wrap the plugs along with the tool I made to form the lines around the perimeter of the base of the pad.
I am happy to answer any questions if needed.

Yes, question: what is your preferred rubber pad for doing a cover?
Thanks!

 

[MRP]

I've done a couple, 10 years ago I did one in calf skin with the hair on. When you shoulder it it's like velcro, hair is a bit worn on the corners, will have to recover it in another 10 years.

 

[yikes3]

Yes, question: what is your preferred rubber pad for doing a cover?
Thanks!

I typically use Pachmyer Old English Decelerator pads.

 

[guntech]

I think this is the type of leather covering Guntech is decribing. It was this way when I purchased this gun and I have no idea who made/installed it.View attachment 867244View attachment 867251

That's very similar to what I did... I made the edges a slightly better fit by grinding the final pad fit last.

 

[Londonshooter]

Attempt # 2 is complete. Sorry, Mike, it not as amazing as promised. Better though! Improvements include much better plug shape after forming them in a die, a better match to the gun after regrinding the pad, and fewer folds and puckers. I used leather from the same source (dress leather coat). I think the leather is too thick and would not use that again. When wet it can be stretched smooth as can be but once dry it does not hold the shape and becomes difficult if not impossible to get smooth. Or, does contact cement work on dampish leather?? I tried to burnish in the accent line without heat. Easy to do with thick leather but this thinner stuff needs heat.

 

[the spank]

I had a Perazzi MT6 that had a leather covered pad according to the previous owner that had been done by some well known stock maker in England. He went on at length about that pad so I assume it is some kind of a craft to achieve? Is there an advantage to a pad being leather bound?

 

[Londonshooter]

I had a Perazzi MT6 that had a leather covered pad according to the previous owner that had been done by some well known stock maker in England. He went on at length about that pad so I assume it is some kind of a craft to achieve? Is there an advantage to a pad being leather bound?

Window dressing I would think. I would say it is a specialized craft. Caesar Guerini custom shop in USA for instance lists leather covered butt pads at 450 USD

 

[guntech]

Is there an advantage to a pad being leather bound?

Lazy rich men had that done to extremely expensive shotguns. Throwing the shotgun outwards first and pulling it back into your shoulder is a lot cheaper than this alteration.

 

[dilly]

Great thread guys. This is something I’d like to try. I wonder if goat leather would be any advantage. I have a pair of goatskin gloves for tig welding and they are thin, tough and really stretchy.

 

[Londonshooter]

Great thread guys. This is something I’d like to try. I wonder if goat leather would be any advantage. I have a pair of goatskin gloves for tig welding and they are thin, tough and really stretchy.

Steve, I don't know what your gloves cost but you can buy several square feet of veg-tanned 1.5 oz pigskin liner - used for lining leather bags, etc - for about $50 at Tandy. 1.5 oz. is 0.6mm thick. I would split one with you. I don't think chrome tanned leather is as durable and it does not wetform as well as veg-tan.
Or, stop in at Tundra Leather in Hamilton to see what what they might have and you might be able to buy a smaller sample pack rather than a whole skin as with Tandy. I bet your goatskin would work great but it needs to be sub-millimeter thickness in my limited experience.

 

[yikes3]

Steve, I don't know what your gloves cost but you can buy several square feet of veg-tanned 1.5 oz pigskin liner - used for lining leather bags, etc - for about $50 at Tandy. 1.5 oz. is 0.6mm thick. I would split one with you. I don't think chrome tanned leather is as durable and it does not wetform as well as veg-tan.
Or, stop in at Tundra Leather in Hamilton to see what what they might have and you might be able to buy a smaller sample pack rather than a whole skin as with Tandy. I bet your goatskin would work great but it needs to be sub-millimeter thickness in my limited experience.

I have tried a number of different hides including kangaroo, silky shark, ostrich and pig skin and always come back to calf skin. It is easy to work with when wet, holds its shape and is durable. There are some areas of the hide that are thinner with more stretch that I select. For the plugs, I cut 11/2” squares and skive them very thin before wetting and forcing into the moulding block. Here is a pad that I completed yesterday on Mauser custom rifle project.

 

[Longstud]

Beautiful craftsmanship!! Thanks for the pics. I think eelskin would work very well but obtaining some maybe difficult.