How to measure bullet seating pressure for under $75

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If you use LE Wilson dies and an arbor press and are interested in seating pressure this project may be of interest.

I will not get into the benefits of measuring bullet seating pressure etc. as this can be found on the 21 Century web site as well as others.

The 21 Century hydraulic press for measuring bullet seating pressure is nice but there has to be a more economical solution , than $375+ US.


$75 is the entry point for this project and all parts are available at your favourite Princess Auto.

This is what worked for me ,but I’m sure others will have innovative ways of achieving similar or better results.

The load cell cylinder assembly is a 4 Ton Low profile Porta-Power ram, Powerfist brand

It was selected for the following reasons.

There is no return spring in the piston assembly.

Low profile , < 2 inches , suits most arbor presses used by reloaders.

Readily available, locally for $55



Pressure gauges.

The first prototype used is a 0-160 psi 2 inch dial , dry gauge. $14

Second prototype used a 0-100 psi 2 1/2 inch dial , glycerin fill, $20

The larger diameter, and lower range gives very good resolution and is the preferred gauge. The Glycerin fill should be better for the cycling action of the device and is what 21C uses.

The Glycerin fill is not 100% of the available case volume so you end up with a bubble in the dial face. If the bubble is a concern , removing some fluid , so it is not visible when the gauge is horizontal , seems to be a better option than adding glycerin .

21C recommends a variety of pressure gauge ranges depending on your application, and it is something to consider before selecting a gauge.

The larger dial face makes readings easier.

Hydraulic fluid is Canola oil ,100% Canadian , readily available, food safe, easy to clean up, etc. But some might prefer virgin olive oil…



Tools / materials

17mm socket or wrench to remove the hydraulic fitting.

Adjustable wrench etc. to install the pressure gauge

Hammer , dead-blow preferred

Thread tape.

Syringe or similar device to inject the canola oil. The cylinder port is restricted, and can get air locked if you don’t use a syringe.

Your preferred cooking oil / hydraulic fluid



Procedure:

1 Remove hydraulic fitting

2 Remove /Shake out the factory hydraulic fluid.

3 Extend the piston , by supporting the cylinder with the piston down and unsupported. Strike the cylinder back , and inertia will cause the piston to come out . About 1/2 inch is maximum extension but 1/4 + is adequate.


With the threaded connection in the 12 o’clock position for steps 4,5,6

4 Using a syringe, inject Canola oil into the cylinder. Bubbles are a good sign you are displacing the air.

Fill to overflowing.

5 Slightly compress the piston for a final , air purge . #1

6 Install the pressure gauge . Don’t worry about spillage or compressing the fluid , as the piston will move to a neutral position.

Once the gauge is installed the unit can be moved from the vertical 12 o’clock position.



#1 you can fine tune the piston extension to bottom out approximately at an predetermined pressure. About 0.085 inch equates to 100 psi .

A C clamp and appropriate spacer can be used to compress the piston before installing the pressure gauge.

You can do it by hand but a C clamp gives better control for the compression . Back off the C clamp before installing the gauge.



7 Have fun….

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" measuring bullet seating pressure - with LEE Wilson inline bullet cheater die "........

This exactly was my winter project.

I was looking for any possible way to avoid buying those expensive K+M or the 21st Century inline presses. I like the minimalist and quality design but didn't like the idea cashing out large $ chunks for these. The rabbit hole can really get deep if I would add the pressure attachment.

I have a Harbor Freight micro mill for over ten years, working well on my tight garage bench. I use it quiet often for quick prototyping for my hobbies (paired with a resin 3d printer).
The rack and pinion has plenty of pressure force for seating the bullet, but not much feedback for feeling and consistency.

I was also tinkering about the hydraulic gauge, but could not find a piston that I can easily modify to my needs. You shall post this "Porta-Power ram" in December ;) .

This how I ended ordering an electric weighing sensor with a controller/display from aliexpress.
The sensor I chose is 20 Kg capacity, and the controller can show also holds the peak weight.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100....order_list.order_list_main.11.23e01802TWmvDi

My interest wasn't really what actual pressure is pressing the bullet into the case, but to see the variations in between each, and I can sort in matching groups.

Edit:
Next time I am passing by Princess Auto I will pickup these parts, I like the portability. I want to see how each compare.
Not sure yet, maybe a 60 psi gauge is good enough?
 
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Trying to figure out how to remove the air pocket.
How is your working so far?
Purging air from the syringe before oil injection and following the procedure will remove air from the cylinder . Ensure the injection point is deep into the cylinder and don’t skimp on the oil until well after the bubbles stop and oil is overflowing.

Repeating step 4 after the filled cylinder sits for a few minutes may improve the purge ,if you have concerns.

At this stage any compression of the piston will also help purge any remaining air. If you see bubbles in 5 and are concerned repeat 4.
The amount you compress the piston in 5 is discretionary…


My unit is working as it should .
 
Purging air from the syringe before oil injection and following the procedure will remove air from the cylinder ...
My unit is working as it should .
I know how to replace the oil in my bikes hydraulic brakes, I have the oil and tools.
But to remove the air pocket from the gauge I would need to find a thinner needle.

I had to re run the mandrel on the older (not processed) 308 brass today a second time, too much springing back and noticeable uneven pressure on handle.
That would be awesome inventing some torque handle for the press so we can sort these shells on that spot.
 
The air bubble and the fluid in the gauge case that is visible through the glass does not have anything to do with the hydraulic pressure.
 
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The air bubble and the fluid in the gauge case that is visible through the glass does not have anything to do with the hydraulic pressure.
You just saved someone from doing a whole bunch of obsessing ....
I know what is inside a gauge I toke several apart in my younger age when these were dirt cheap, I am not talking about air below the glass but inside the brass tube that connects to gears...
 
I know what is inside a gauge I toke several apart in my younger age when these were dirt cheap, I am not talking about air below the glass but inside the brass tube that connects to gears...
That's called a bourdon tube. I built, calibrated, and repaired instrumentation for 30 years but never knew i should be concerned about air bubbles in a bourdon tube.
 
I would use mineral oil, available at any drug store. Canola oil tends to gum up over time. It certainly made a mess of my POS Poulan moose quartering chainsaw. I switched to mineral oil. It good for sharpening with an oilstone as well.
 
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