Reloading Questions...

Not that I have a centerfire yet, but should I get into LR precision shooting next year before I move on, some very basic questions and I am sure many I am not asking. I would like to improve a bit more with my CZ457 MTR and become more consistent before going to a 6.5 Creedmore or PRC (or are there better choices).

How long do brass casings last? Is it a function of the load or other factors?

What about cost vs buying upper end ammo or are they all reasonably consistent, and I would assume upper end ammo is nearly as good as loading your own if you are particular about it or experiment.

I see that centerfire bullet weights vary and as a .22 shooter, something to think about the advantages and disadvantages of more or less grains.

Many more questions I am not aware of.
If you are not concistant with a 22 how do you expect to be consistant with a center fire.
 
Firing a couple of rounds of something is not the same as spending an afternoon shooting a rifle.

223 is a great choice but if you are looking more for accuracy, consider a 222. It is quite similar to 223 but is def more accurate case. Some of the first benchrest rifles were chambered in 222.

I never make snap buying decisions and like to get facts. It is why I talk to people at the range about their choices and many say the 6.5CM is a good paper puncher as in not too much recoil. And sure enough, my friend's shoulder with his 7.62 x 54 was blue the time he fired off 40+ rounds.

Trust me, I'll be looking at the smaller cartridges.
 
I never make snap buying decisions and like to get facts. It is why I talk to people at the range about their choices and many say the 6.5CM is a good paper puncher as in not too much recoil. And sure enough, my friend's shoulder with his 7.62 x 54 was blue the time he fired off 40+ rounds.

Trust me, I'll be looking at the smaller cartridges.
Was he carrying his purse at that time? :unsure::rolleyes: LOL. I've commonly fired that many .338LM round in a range visit, then switched to a smaller rifle .308 win or there abouts with no bruising. Normally I switch to save money or stop annoying other range users because of the muzzle brake.
 
I have a .223, 6BR, 6GT, 300PRC. The 6mm variants are so much fun. Super accurate.

I’d skip the 6.5PRC unless you are hunting. For paper, the .223 and 6mm variants are easy to learn with. Choose one with factory ammo availability if you are waiting to reload, but you said you own a lathe. You have enough skills to reload. Dig into that rabbit hole next. :)
 
If one is simply punching paper, something like the 6BR is really one of the best choices. It has very little recoil ... considerably less than 65 Creedmoor and is extremely accurate ... way more so than 65 Creedmoor.

The primary downside to 6BR is that while factory ammo is available, it is fairly spendy in Canada. The Lapua and Norma ammo runs around $3 per.

With 6Br and any of its progeny, reloading is really the way to go.
 
I know most of the standard cartridges, but what is a 6BR or 6GT?
6mm Benchrest, and the GT is an improved version. Remington designed the original case, in 7mm. It was immediately necked up and down by wildcatters. The 6 BR turned out to be a very accurate round. A 8 twist 6 BR is an very good choice, and is likely more accurate than 99% of the shooters tha use it. Including me. - dan
 
6BR was designed for Benchrest shooting and so it was literally designed to be accurate and to work with a standard 308 sized bolt face. The Dasher and GT are variations and slightly longer versions of the 6BR for more velocity.

I absolutely love shooting my 6BR because it is just so nice and so easy to shoot and it is SO accurate. With a fast twist barrel, the 6BR can use heavy VLD bullets and at one time it held several 1000 yd records. The case is also very efficient so can use less powder than other cartridges.
 
6BR accuracy is off the charts!

My personal take is this: A while back I built a 6BR and had only fired a couple hundred rounds at 100m, trying loads for a few types of components.

Then I was inspired to try long distance after a conversation with Ryan from IBI (their barrel). I grabbed a box of 105 Bergers, looked up a load online, and used 30grains of Varget.

I never tested this! I had no time. A few days later I was nailing a 16” target, shot after shot, at 1000m.

My waterline at 1000m was about 4”. Absolutely nuts!

I’m hooked on this stuff now. :)
 
OK, so the OP wants to move up from rimfire to center fire and try out longer range shooting. You guys have the OP looking into custom rifles and wildcat or semi wildcat cartridges that in some cases require fire forming and if commercial ammo is available it is expensive. But hey, nothing that 10K can't solve, right?
I am going to stick with my post #10. Get an accurate .223 with the proper twist for the heavy bullets and go out and burn out a barrel while learning to reload. By the time you have 5000-6000 rounds down the pipe you will have a better idea on what your next caliber should be. When you get to the 4000 round mark, order a new barrel.
 
OK, so the OP wants to move up from rimfire to center fire and try out longer range shooting. You guys have the OP looking into custom rifles and wildcat or semi wildcat cartridges that in some cases require fire forming and if commercial ammo is available it is expensive. But hey, nothing that 10K can't solve, right?
I am going to stick with my post #10. Get an accurate .223 with the proper twist for the heavy bullets and go out and burn out a barrel while learning to reload. By the time you have 5000-6000 rounds down the pipe you will have a better idea on what your next caliber should be. When you get to the 4000 round mark, order a new barrel.
6BR is SAAMI spec now and both factory rifles and factory ammo is available. 🤷‍♂️ OK, so they aren't exactly all that easy to find but def worthwhile.

If you look back, one of my firsts posts, I suggested a 223 and I have also suggested a 222.
 
OK, so the OP wants to move up from rimfire to center fire and try out longer range shooting.

I would not call it "moving up", just another type of shooting...long range. I'll always enjoy my rimfire.

I am going to stick with my post #10. Get an accurate .223 with the proper twist.

I was looking at a CZ 600 Range in a .223. Or what else is there? Tikka T3X, Bergara?
 
OK, so the OP wants to move up from rimfire to center fire and try out longer range shooting. You guys have the OP looking into custom rifles and wildcat or semi wildcat cartridges that in some cases require fire forming and if commercial ammo is available it is expensive. But hey, nothing that 10K can't solve, right?
I am going to stick with my post #10. Get an accurate .223 with the proper twist for the heavy bullets and go out and burn out a barrel while learning to reload. By the time you have 5000-6000 rounds down the pipe you will have a better idea on what your next caliber should be. When you get to the 4000 round mark, order a new barrel.
Or just stay with 223 rem forever. I’m sticking with it for almost everything. Prs you can shoot tactical, or f/tr. Why does a guy need anything else?
 
Not that I have a centerfire yet, but should I get into LR precision shooting next year before I move on, some very basic questions and I am sure many I am not asking. I would like to improve a bit more with my CZ457 MTR and become more consistent before going to a 6.5 Creedmore or PRC (or are there better choices).

How long do brass casings last? Is it a function of the load or other factors?

What about cost vs buying upper end ammo or are they all reasonably consistent, and I would assume upper end ammo is nearly as good as loading your own if you are particular about it or experiment.

I see that centerfire bullet weights vary and as a .22 shooter, something to think about the advantages and disadvantages of more or less grains.

Many more questions I am not aware of.
I compete with the .223, and have owned many other cartridges in different rifles.
As far as rifle choices , ease of loading, components and affordability goes, it's pretty tough to beat the .223 .
The 6mmBR is another good choice as well, but still not there as far as economy goes.
My advice is to meet shooters and ask them exactly why they shoot their particular cartridges and rifles, competitors as well as non competitors.
This way you may find ( actually your WILL) some very big differences in the responses and you may be able to separate the wheat from the chaff when it comes to making a choice.
The reason I say this is because I hear all the time about how much better one one cartridge is than another, when in reality the differences can be very minimal and in some instances- like the various 6.5 cartridges, redundant and a non issue .
However, everybody has their favorites I suppose........
Cat
 
I'm glad some steered me to the .223 because that is what I'll like go with. Plus I'll talk to others at the range.

Next will be reloading equipment. I have tons of top notch tools and shop equipment in my shop and garage, meaning I do not like tools that frustrate me. Buy quality, buy once.
 
If you are getting into center fire rifles and want to shoot long range (1000 yards) I would go with a fast twist .223. Tikka T3's come with a 1:8" twist that will allow you to shoot up to 80 gr bullets out to 1000 yards and will keep up in the wind when compared to a .308 shooting 155 gr bullets.
The .223 is about 1/2 the price of shooting .308. When you burn the barrel out after about 5000-6000 rounds, rebarrel and carry on.

The thing about long range shooting is that if you want to be good at it, you need lots of trigger time. The cheaper that you can reload mean more ammo you can make, equals more trigger time. If you are worried about the cost of ammo or the cost of reloading, stick with your .22.
There was a Remington LTR in .223 in the last ten days in the EE.
I was severely tempted to drop the hammer on this one, but declined after coming to my senses.
This would fit he guys first foray into the centre fire realm and inexpensive to feed.
Components are easy to source be it range brass or a quick wtb in the EE.
Tight Groups.
Rob
 
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