I try.That is good advice. - dan
It all comes from decades of personal experience.
I try.That is good advice. - dan
If you are not concistant with a 22 how do you expect to be consistant with a center fire.Not that I have a centerfire yet, but should I get into LR precision shooting next year before I move on, some very basic questions and I am sure many I am not asking. I would like to improve a bit more with my CZ457 MTR and become more consistent before going to a 6.5 Creedmore or PRC (or are there better choices).
How long do brass casings last? Is it a function of the load or other factors?
What about cost vs buying upper end ammo or are they all reasonably consistent, and I would assume upper end ammo is nearly as good as loading your own if you are particular about it or experiment.
I see that centerfire bullet weights vary and as a .22 shooter, something to think about the advantages and disadvantages of more or less grains.
Many more questions I am not aware of.
Firing a couple of rounds of something is not the same as spending an afternoon shooting a rifle.
223 is a great choice but if you are looking more for accuracy, consider a 222. It is quite similar to 223 but is def more accurate case. Some of the first benchrest rifles were chambered in 222.
Was he carrying his purse at that time?I never make snap buying decisions and like to get facts. It is why I talk to people at the range about their choices and many say the 6.5CM is a good paper puncher as in not too much recoil. And sure enough, my friend's shoulder with his 7.62 x 54 was blue the time he fired off 40+ rounds.
Trust me, I'll be looking at the smaller cartridges.
If one is simply punching paper, something like the 6BR is really one of the best choices.
6mm Benchrest, and the GT is an improved version. Remington designed the original case, in 7mm. It was immediately necked up and down by wildcatters. The 6 BR turned out to be a very accurate round. A 8 twist 6 BR is an very good choice, and is likely more accurate than 99% of the shooters tha use it. Including me. - danI know most of the standard cartridges, but what is a 6BR or 6GT?
6BR is SAAMI spec now and both factory rifles and factory ammo is available.OK, so the OP wants to move up from rimfire to center fire and try out longer range shooting. You guys have the OP looking into custom rifles and wildcat or semi wildcat cartridges that in some cases require fire forming and if commercial ammo is available it is expensive. But hey, nothing that 10K can't solve, right?
I am going to stick with my post #10. Get an accurate .223 with the proper twist for the heavy bullets and go out and burn out a barrel while learning to reload. By the time you have 5000-6000 rounds down the pipe you will have a better idea on what your next caliber should be. When you get to the 4000 round mark, order a new barrel.
OK, so the OP wants to move up from rimfire to center fire and try out longer range shooting.
I am going to stick with my post #10. Get an accurate .223 with the proper twist.
The specific rifle make is mostly irrelevant.I was looking at a CZ 600 Range in a .223. Or what else is there? Tikka T3X, Bergara?
Or just stay with 223 rem forever. I’m sticking with it for almost everything. Prs you can shoot tactical, or f/tr. Why does a guy need anything else?OK, so the OP wants to move up from rimfire to center fire and try out longer range shooting. You guys have the OP looking into custom rifles and wildcat or semi wildcat cartridges that in some cases require fire forming and if commercial ammo is available it is expensive. But hey, nothing that 10K can't solve, right?
I am going to stick with my post #10. Get an accurate .223 with the proper twist for the heavy bullets and go out and burn out a barrel while learning to reload. By the time you have 5000-6000 rounds down the pipe you will have a better idea on what your next caliber should be. When you get to the 4000 round mark, order a new barrel.
I compete with the .223, and have owned many other cartridges in different rifles.Not that I have a centerfire yet, but should I get into LR precision shooting next year before I move on, some very basic questions and I am sure many I am not asking. I would like to improve a bit more with my CZ457 MTR and become more consistent before going to a 6.5 Creedmore or PRC (or are there better choices).
How long do brass casings last? Is it a function of the load or other factors?
What about cost vs buying upper end ammo or are they all reasonably consistent, and I would assume upper end ammo is nearly as good as loading your own if you are particular about it or experiment.
I see that centerfire bullet weights vary and as a .22 shooter, something to think about the advantages and disadvantages of more or less grains.
Many more questions I am not aware of.
There was a Remington LTR in .223 in the last ten days in the EE.If you are getting into center fire rifles and want to shoot long range (1000 yards) I would go with a fast twist .223. Tikka T3's come with a 1:8" twist that will allow you to shoot up to 80 gr bullets out to 1000 yards and will keep up in the wind when compared to a .308 shooting 155 gr bullets.
The .223 is about 1/2 the price of shooting .308. When you burn the barrel out after about 5000-6000 rounds, rebarrel and carry on.
The thing about long range shooting is that if you want to be good at it, you need lots of trigger time. The cheaper that you can reload mean more ammo you can make, equals more trigger time. If you are worried about the cost of ammo or the cost of reloading, stick with your .22.