The decapping pin broke flush with the bottom of the decapping rod holder and I just can’t get it out. Should I get the universal decapping die rod or can I get a decapping rod holder and pin? It’s a Lyman 2 die set. I haven’t reloaded in 25 years so I’m a bit rusty on this. Thanks.
Broke Decapping Pin
- Thread starter cowbelly
- Start date
the universal decap die is very good and i have used one for many years with no problems. the pins have always been a problem breaking off at the worst time, if you have a spare pin just put a punch in the broken end and tap it out gently it should come out. at times the spare pins are hard to get but if you get a universal decapp die it will last for many years as they are very tough.
I always have extra pins. Small punch works well. Sometimes the pin bends over. I just take a file and file the bent section off and push the rest out with the punch.
I dont think the OP is talking about the female threaded expander ball section but the actual stem the pin fits into. I dont see a punch being any use. Ive broken the Redding decap die pin off in the small primer small flash hole Lapua BR brass. It broke off flush and I couldnt remove it and just bought a new stem for $16 from XReload.
Yes, the stem the pin fits into. A punch will do no good. Thanks for the idea though. Looks like the easiest is to buy a new stem.
OkayShooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nova Scotia
Ways of getting it out.. Can try a strong magnet. Hitting the top with a hammer. Gently prying open the collar.
I also broke a Lyman assembly. Much to my surprise, my RCBS 6.5 Creedmoor pin assembly fit my Lyman 6.5x55 die.
I tried a magnet , didn’t budge. It’s soaking in Kroil now maybe it will loosen up then I’ll try the magnet again.
Hard to see in the picture, just to clarify; is the broken piece in the male threaded stem or in the female treaded holding collar?
Lyman also uses decapping pins with a "head", not just a straight pin like RCBS that get's clamped in the split end of the stem.
It sounds like you have one like that and try to pull the end of the stem not the decapping pin.
If you need lyman a decapping pin with a head then I can mail you one.
Lyman also uses decapping pins with a "head", not just a straight pin like RCBS that get's clamped in the split end of the stem.
It sounds like you have one like that and try to pull the end of the stem not the decapping pin.
If you need lyman a decapping pin with a head then I can mail you one.
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I tried rare earth magnets, thermal shock and a few others, like inertia but the Redding decap for the small flash hole has only a hole in the end and the pin is pressed in so it’s not like a spindal from a normal die. The spindle on the left side is the Redding spindle broken off flush with the end and the right is a standard spindle from a Redding die. Very different!
Ok maybe I don’t know what I’m talking about. I was assuming the decapping pin went inside the 3 1/2” long decapping rod holder. But the pins your showing go inside the size button. That makes a lot more sense. What I think is the broke pin is just a machine mark.
I grew tired of snapping decapping pins and bending the rod the neck expander threads onto, so I bought an RCBS hand decapper and took the pins off my neck expanders in my sizing dies. I wet tumble anyway. So I can sit in front of the TV and decap a couple of coffee pails, and then I size them after I tumble them.
If the pin would just go into a round hole at the end of the stem then nothing would hold it tight. I think you dropped the head of the pin when you took the collar off the stem and did not notice it.
Remove the decapping pin, hold it between your thumb and forefinger by the button end, and briskly tap the head against your vise anvil or even the press housing... the pin will fly out. Use two pairs of pliers to snap of the shaft of a drill bit that is the same size as the pin, file.or grind down as necessary and then insert the bit piece into the rod and tighten the collar. I have replaced.many pins this way.
I also decap before tumbling (as primer pockets get cleaned and brass dries faster), what have misfires to do with this?
When I prime handgun cases (with RCBS universal hand primer) I check for pins that are stuck in the flash hole (this occasionally happens) so after hand priming the decapping pin needs to be removed at sizing or the primer will be pushed out again.
For used rifle brass I decap, wet tumble, size, clean sizing lube, trim if needed, then prime and load
