Good day all, I just received my mercury recoil suppressor, 3/4”x 5” and looking at the paper work it said to install parallel to the bottom of the stock but the few installation videos I could find they all go parallel to the comb/top of the stock which make more sense to me…. So my question is for the people/gunsmith in the house that have installed such recoil reducer how did you do it?
Mercury recoil suppressor
- Thread starter DGY
- Start date
Hand Skills
CGN Regular
- Location
- In the 'heartland', southern SK
I don't have a ton of experience with big bores, but enough to think it may be important to consider this question in that context
I've spent considerable time and effort getting rifles to recoil straight back.
My understanding is that you gotta 'roll' with the big ones, so intuitively the manufacturer's instructions make more sense to me, but it's an interesting discussion - tagging in!
Technically I believe the device is called a 'reducer' not a 'supressor', but that's semantics...
I've spent considerable time and effort getting rifles to recoil straight back.
My understanding is that you gotta 'roll' with the big ones, so intuitively the manufacturer's instructions make more sense to me, but it's an interesting discussion - tagging in!
Technically I believe the device is called a 'reducer' not a 'supressor', but that's semantics...
I had 2 installed in my .500 N.E., built on a Ruger #1 40+ years ago. They were installed parallel to the bore & had electrical wrapped around them so that they were real snug in the holes drilled into the butt-stock. They were installed so that the back edge of them were touching the back of the Silvers recoil pad.
I cannot attest to their effectiveness, as I did not shoot the rifle before they were installed, as it was custom-stocked, as well as being re-barrelled from .45-70, but I will say that the recoil on it felt SUBSTANTIALLY less than the recoil from factory loads in my 9.5# Whitworth in .458 Winchester. The recoil from that rifle was just stupid. 3 rounds felt like I had gone a couple of rounds in the ring & had had my bell rung a few times. I actually felt giddy but dizzy after doing that & saw stars for a few minutes. I could shoot 10 rounds of .500 [570 gr. bullets @ 2,100 fps.] before it was no longer "fun".
Calculations in LFAD suggest that the recoil of the .500 N.E., despite its heavier weight, should have been 10% more than the .458.
I cannot attest to their effectiveness, as I did not shoot the rifle before they were installed, as it was custom-stocked, as well as being re-barrelled from .45-70, but I will say that the recoil on it felt SUBSTANTIALLY less than the recoil from factory loads in my 9.5# Whitworth in .458 Winchester. The recoil from that rifle was just stupid. 3 rounds felt like I had gone a couple of rounds in the ring & had had my bell rung a few times. I actually felt giddy but dizzy after doing that & saw stars for a few minutes. I could shoot 10 rounds of .500 [570 gr. bullets @ 2,100 fps.] before it was no longer "fun".
Calculations in LFAD suggest that the recoil of the .500 N.E., despite its heavier weight, should have been 10% more than the .458.
It's a bit gimicky no matter what you call it.
Felt recoil will be reduced due to the added weight regardless of how well it functions. If it is liquid mercury shifting around I think it won't matter much at what angle it is installed... but it needs to be installed so the unit is solid in the stock. No movement at all. A recoil pad is not sufficient as a stop... a reducer will eventually pound the hell out of it. I have seen it many times.
Felt recoil will be reduced due to the added weight regardless of how well it functions. If it is liquid mercury shifting around I think it won't matter much at what angle it is installed... but it needs to be installed so the unit is solid in the stock. No movement at all. A recoil pad is not sufficient as a stop... a reducer will eventually pound the hell out of it. I have seen it many times.
Found a bit more info on some other forums, most people seam to install them parallel with the top of stock. I read some where that the reason to install them parallel to the bottom of the stock is to ensure that the mercury is at the back of the tube when firing and that the mercury has to “climb” in the tube and that would increase efficiency…
I also wrote an email to C&H research and asked the question, will report backs with there reasoning.
I also wrote an email to C&H research and asked the question, will report backs with there reasoning.
Done, I went with the parallel to the bottom of the stock theory and I’m sticking to it 
! Rifle is still under ten pounds scoped and slinged…. Hope I see a difference… you can actually feel the mercury sloshing around in the stock. Anyway I will repost back.
! Rifle is still under ten pounds scoped and slinged…. Hope I see a difference… you can actually feel the mercury sloshing around in the stock. Anyway I will repost back.
saskgunowner101
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- middle of Sask
nvm, i see above
Guntech was telling it right. The weight will make the felt recoil easier to handle, but in some instances, especially off the bench, the bottom and center position make a significant difference.
The bench position or prone position is where I really feel the recoil.
Mercury used to be quite easily obtained, and we made our own tubes out of "aluminum cigar cylinders."
The bench position or prone position is where I really feel the recoil.
Mercury used to be quite easily obtained, and we made our own tubes out of "aluminum cigar cylinders."
Hand Skills
CGN Regular
- Location
- In the 'heartland', southern SK
Ain't nobody shooting a 458WM prone 
Is the movement of the mercury in the tube/cylinder actually helping in recoil reduction or is it's weight only dictating the recoil ?
I've seen weighted butt stocks done with lead tubes but no moving parts like the mercury splashing around in a tube.
I have no experience with them but it would seem to me that you would angle it down in the front. That way, the mass of the mercury is slowing the acceleration of the stock the instant it starts moving and then decouples briefly as your shoulder slows the stock down again. In effect, spreading the recoil forces out a over time.
Angled up in front (following bottom line of stock) would mean the stock has to move quite a bit before the mercury contacts the front if its container and actually has any effect.
What am I missing here?
Angled up in front (following bottom line of stock) would mean the stock has to move quite a bit before the mercury contacts the front if its container and actually has any effect.
What am I missing here?
Yes, it is, if it isn't all the way to the front, when the shot is fired, as often happens in a hunting situation, no matter how the tube is mounted.
What we found was a tube apprx half full worked best. Of course, the larger the tube diameter the better.
I eventually went away from the system completely. KiK EEZE pads and sometimes added weight in the fore arm, such as lead shot glass bedded into a channel, all helped enough.
I know of guys shutting down a mercury tower. The liquid #### wouldn't be much of an issue. It's the gases, so were told.
Do you think the mercury could gas out of the cigar container in the butt stock ?
