Rust resisting a hunting rifle - CZ 557

Royzo said:
For cleaning and rust prevention I use good old fashioned ATF.
If I purchase an old gun that has gotten rusty from neglect and needs a serious cleaning, I use (again) ATF and acetone mixed 50/50. Has always worked good for me.
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Acetone is an amazing solvent in certain situations. Acetone will eat many different wood finishes. I don't know how it acts when mixed with ATF, but on its own I wouldn't let it close to a stocked rifle. I actually use it to strip finishes, so just be careful.
 
I should have been clearer with that write up. The ATF/ acetone mix is used for a serious cleaning with the stock removed.
That 50/50 mix is also what I use in the shop as a penetrating fluid.
cam1936 said:
Acetone is an amazing solvent in certain situations. Acetone will eat many different wood finishes. I don't know how it acts when mixed with ATF, but on its own I wouldn't let it close to a stocked rifle. I actually use it to strip finishes, so just be careful.
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DGY said:
True so maybe it wasn’t pointed at you. Oh and never had an issue with Balistol, none of my firearms are SS and I hunt in all kind of weather with them, no rust problems. If you take care of your stuff you can use what ever oil you want really. The main problem is people put too much on, less is better in this situation!!
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I don't disbelieve you at all. But I surmise you're the guy who wipes his firearms down regularly after use?

I've seen too many milsurps with a coat of "sticky" Ballistol applied by the owner, tucked into the back of a safe, and stay there for a year or longer.

Not all firearms owners are as fussy as you, many others and myself.

They use Ballistol as a "long term storage" coating, which it was never intended to be.
 
CZ made nice rifles in the 550 and 527: I've never owned or handled a 557. It always seemed the bluing was not very thick, and I was always diligent about the end of a damp day in the field to wipe down, and smear a film of hydraulic oil over the metal. The wood finish was always pretty good, so I would just wipe it down of moisture and sweat. But I was always this diligent with any rifle...

If you want, you can purchase bluing kits and thicken the blue... this is my second choice after just keeping it clean, and putting away properly. But coating over a blued surface won't work well, given that blue is literally a controlled oxidized surface and won't receive many surface coatings... it would have to be stripped... eww. Anyway, Birchwood Casey makes a nice cold blue kit: I've reblued some old, beat guns and several layers in, the bluing is beautiful and deep.
 
So wd40 specialist is the best really, easy to find and probably a lot cheaper than one shot…
 
The standard hot bluing on a rifle leaves it vulnerable to the outside elements. There are a few products which protect the metal on rifles, such as: cerakote, dura coat, powder coat and parkerizing. Good luck!
 
Pull the stock... seal it with marine varnish... apply wax in the checkering... this prevents it from absorbing water and shifting zero.

Either fluid film every millimeter of metal... and smell like a goat while hunting... or have the rifle cerakoated, and only protect the bolt and bore with fluid film... and smell less like a goat...

Fluid Film also makes a great case lube... now your ammo smells like goat. You're welcome.
 
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jparent said:
Pull the stock... seal it with marine varnish... apply wax in the checkering... this prevents it from absorbing water and shifting zero.

Either fluid film every millimeter of metal... and smell like a goat while hunting... or have the rifle ceracoated, and only protect the bolt and bore with fluid film... and smell less like a goat...

Fluid Film also makes a great case lube... now your ammo smells like goat. You're welcome.
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As a cartridge lube, a little spritz in a heavy ziplock bag and a shake does it. Excellent case lube. Too muddy to use on a rifle; I have been using Balistol lately and am happy.
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I have a couple rifles that are Ceracoated and Otis very effective for why you are looking to do, but don’t forget that your bore is not coated, and it will need to be protected of the same elements.

I would definitely recommend a coating rather than just a wipe on product.
 
I’ve never coated a rifle that I didn’t regret doing so later. It gums up actions, wears like crap and isn’t coating internals very well.
 
Pulling a rifle apart is pretty simple. Even in the field. I like Hornady One Shot (even though ridiculous jim finds it funny) because you can spray down the trigger assembly and bolt shroud without worry of it gumming things up. It is slick as snot and doesn’t attract dust either. The best part is it is the best rust protection going.


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