Which scope for .223 precision target shooting?

Skylight

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Hello everyone.
Our gun club has 100-500 yard range and I would like to do some precision target shooting with my .223 Tikka.
Which magnification/Tube size should I consider and why?
I am looking at 4-16 or 5-25, but I am new to this kind of shooting, and I have no clue really.
Feel free to educate me :)
 
Hello everyone.
Our gun club has 100-500 yard range and I would like to do some precision target shooting with my .223 Tikka.
Which magnification/Tube size should I consider and why?
I am looking at 4-16 or 5-25, but I am new to this kind of shooting, and I have no clue really.
Feel free to educate me :)
Either power ranges will work just fine for 500 yards. What target are you looking at as far as size goes.
1MOA is about 5" and is pretty easy to see and hit on steel at that range with even a 4X scope with a finer cross hair.
With paper targets however it can be tough fir some shooters eyes with anything less than 20X even with a shoot'n'see target .
Cat
 
Either power ranges will work just fine for 500 yards. What target are you looking at as far as size goes.
1MOA is about 5" and is pretty easy to see and hit on steel at that range with even a 4X scope with a finer cross hair.
With paper targets however it can be tough with anything less than 20X even with a shoot'n'see target .
Cat
Paper at 100-300 yards, steel at 500-700 yards.
 
Paper at 100-300 yards, steel at 500-700 yards.
No worries then, I am a sling'n'irons shooter and even with the a 55 grain, .223 a hit can be heard at 500 yards . The problem is seeing the 1MOA steel plate- the day has to be bright and the steel has to be clean otherwise it disappears as soon as I look through the irons!
With even a low powered 4x scope it's not an issue however .
Cat
 
Need more info.
Budget?
What model of Tikka do you have ie: is it a traditional stock or a chassis? Light or heavy barrel? Is there a chance ever you may use it in the field?

5-25 of almost any brand will do if it’s in a chassis already. They tend to make a hunting style rifle top heavy

If I was setting up a rifle for your purpose I’d put it in a KRG Bravo and try something in the 3-15/ 3-18 scope class
Like Leupold MARK 5HD 3.6-18X44 M5C3 FFP PR2-MIL

Have fun shopping
 
More importantly then mag is glass clarity and resolution. Brands like Athlon, Sightron, Delta offer well priced products with excellent optics, tracking and hold zero.

If this is a range toy, higher mag range isn't a neg and may be useful for paper punching. Also, SFP vs FFP... if not trying to use the reticle for ballistic work, there is alot of positives to choose a sfp higher mag 'target' scope for range use.

Best thing you can do is look through various optics and see what works for YOUR EYES. eye relief, eye box, parallax, colour, field of view... you can read the specs all day on the side of a box but looking through the scope in various light will tell you what is to your liking.

Optic choices today don't need to cost alot of money to perform very well. However, there is certainly a 'too cheap' level which gets you into functional optics but not necessarily enjoyable ones. Why it is important to try before you buy... if at all possible.

If you have brands and types you are familiar with, it is easy for us to offer comparisons to other types that may be worth considering.

Good luck.

Jerry
 
I would go with a 30 -36 power, you can always dial the power down, but on a 24, you can't dial it up. 24 x seems good for me for about 200 yards. If you are going to 500, more would be a benefit. I would check out discovery optics, I have heard a lot of good things. I am using RITON on a couple rifles, but they don't build scopes much over 24x... or get a spotter. LOL
 
No worries then, I am a sling'n'irons shooter and even with the a 55 grain, .223 a hit can be heard at 500 yards . The problem is seeing the 1MOA steel plate- the day has to be bright and the steel has to be clean otherwise it disappears as soon as I look through the irons!
With even a low powered 4x scope it's not an issue however .
Cat
ic, a lot depends on the age of the shooter's eyes, or the natural distortion within his eyes, and whether or not his prescription lenses will coincide with the definition levels of the scope, and if the shooter is tedious/knowledgeable with AO, and wind/mirage drift.

OP, ic is knowledgeable and willing to help out if you reach out to him.

If possible, go to a local business that sells scopes and check them out against each other, for such things as sharpness and clarity at short range. That's about all you can really check in most stores because they are too small to get a good idea of how well they can be focused for reticle stability.

If you're lucky and they trust you, they might let you take the scope you're interested in outside to fiddle with AO adjustment and other focus corrections.

Here's the real kicker, depending on the level of the scope, which also coincides with cost, just because the scope you looked through at the store met your requirements, the scope they give you, new in box, may or may not be.

Optics are quirky, especially at the lower price ranges.

If you want excellent sharpness, clarity, light transmission, repeatable adjustment for elevation, windage, and reticle stability, for precision work out to or past 500 yards, it's going to cost a lot of money, and bargain type scopes just won't do the heavy lifting when needed.

Tiny groups and minute or gopher are two different things.

Shooting steel plates to make them ring, or knock over, are different venues, and it can be a chore to find a scope/rifle combination that will be suitable for both, depending on the competitive level you're shooting.

For me, repeatability of adjustments and reticle stability come first. Usually, clarity and sharpness are not issues with high quality scopes.

You've got a very good off the shelf rifle, and it hasn't seen to many rounds down the bore, it deserves to wear the best quality scope you can afford.

I can't count how often I've seen rifles capable of half moa accuracy, with loads they like, get turned into 1.5 moa rifles when a crappy scope was mounted or even a good quality scope not mounted properly.

The next thing you need to take into consideration is "does the rifle fit you properly" for the venues you intend to shoot.

For my hunting rifles, I like 13 7/8 length of trigger pull stocks, but for bench rest type shooting, 12.5-13 inches works better, and I can handle felt recoil a bit better. Shooting from the bench is where you feel the most recoil. Not that it will be much of an issue with the 223rem.

The thing is, you don't want to be searching for or stretching to reach the trigger, which will give you self induced windage/elevation stringing.
 
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One thing to take into consideration when choosing a scope is that not everyone's eyes see the same when looking through the same scope.
What is very clear to some in a scope is not to others , because of their individual eyes.
That is why it is very important to try and look through a scope that you are considering , regardless of brand and power settings.
The same goes for iron sight diopters, a filter that works great for one shooter will not work for another.......
Cat
 
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Need more info.
Budget?
What model of Tikka do you have ie: is it a traditional stock or a chassis? Light or heavy barrel? Is there a chance ever you may use it in the field?
Backround:
The only rifles I’ve ever shot were ARs with iron sights, back when I served in the army many centuries ago.
I want to get back into shooting, and I’ve always wanted to get into precision long-range shooting.

The rifle is a .223 Tikka Ace Target. And yes, I know it is too much rifle for an amateur like me, but I like the idea that it is very accurate out of the box, has a heavy barrel and doesn’t need any upgrades.

My goal is to shoot paper at 100–300 yards and steel at 500–700 yards.
While I can afford an expensive scope, I’m still an amateur... I feel like a high-end scope would be wasted on me at this stage.

The problem is that I don’t know much about scopes in terms of quality, durability, and value. I don’t need all the bells and whistles, just the features that actually matter. I do know that I want FFP, but beyond that I’m not sure what I should be looking for.

Ideally, I’m hoping to find something in the $400–600 CAD range (such as the Arken EPL-4 4-16X44), but I would consider going up to $800–1,000 CAD (such as the Vortex Venom Riflescopes 5-25x56) if the added cost is truly worth it for my use case and not wasted on my current skill level.

Please feel free to correct me if I’m looking at this the wrong way. I won’t be offended.
I’d rather face the facts now than spend too much, or cheap out where I shouldn’t.
Thank you.
 
It is not the easiest thing to see .223 holes in paper at 500 with any optic.
25x wud be my minimum.
for daylight operations, it's hard to look past the Arken EP5 for value.
IME, not the best scopes once the light drops a bit.

Whoops, just read about steel beyond 300.
I wud still go 25x for any ""range" gun.
 
Another vote for 'High Mag', I'd suggest an Athlon, this will fall under your 'high' price limit if you shop carefully. And will work for most situations since 10x is a good low starting point. I use an Athlon Argos Gen2 8-34x56 FFP for my CZ VMTR 22LR, out to ca 200-yds but I use a 75x spotting scope to see those tiny holes 😉 https://athlonoptics.com/product/heras-spr-15-60x56-blr2-sfp-moa/
PS- That brings up the 'other issue' that has been mentioned - get a powerful spotting scope . . . maybe another $500 (Or MORE ! shop around carefully, maybe go used first ? ) when you get out to those 'long ranges'.
 
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