M1 Garand won't fire

Vulcan Gun Refinishing in Maidstone is a Garand gunsmith in Ontario.
Unfortunately Vulcan closed this spring.

The firing pin hold the extractor in place (IIRC). That could be the combined problem.

Chase down a second assembled Garand bolt and give it a try.
 
Unfortunately Vulcan closed this spring.

The firing pin hold the extractor in place (IIRC). That could be the combined problem.

Chase down a second assembled Garand bolt and give it a try.
Do not simply swap in a different garand bolt and try it! That could be dangerous!
Locking lug contact could be minimal and headspace could be off!
You could disassemble a different Garand bolt and grab the firing pin and ejector from it, but there's no point. You need your own. Buy the parts and look up videos to disassemble, buy the garand bolt tool, or take it to a smith.
 
Unfortunately Vulcan closed this spring.

The firing pin hold the extractor in place (IIRC). That could be the combined problem.

Chase down a second assembled Garand bolt and give it a try.
I checked if there was an announcement of retirement on his website and the business hours on Google before posting because I thought he was close to retirement and I didn't see that so I took the chance to suggest that business. I'm not surprised that the info on internet isn't up to date. Thanks for the info.
 
Hello,

I'm a total newbie here, and a newbie to collecting firearms, so let me know if I posted in the wrong place.

I purchased an M1 Garand a few months ago, took it to the range on Monday, and found out it wouldn't fire. Pulling the trigger led to a clicking as if it was being dry fired, but there was no evidence of the firing pin making contact with the bullet. This rifle was sold to me as a 30-06 chambered M1 and the clip fits in loaded with 30-06, but it doesn't fire, and when I try to take the unfired bullet out I pull back the bolt and the bullet stays with the bolt, but it takes a bit of work to remove the bullet from the bolt.

Has anyone seen this kind of thing? I wonder if it really is a .308 conversion or something.

Also, does anyone know of a good gunsmith in the Greater Toronto area for this type of rifle, I really would like to get this M! working.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Not trying to climb down your throat but until you are more familiar with firearms in general, maybe take a knowledgeable buddy with you before you buy anything else.

If the seller here is making good on this, that’s great, but there are sellers who will turn their backs on you once the money has transferred.

Kind of a shame but not everyone is a gentleman.
 
Do not simply swap in a different garand bolt and try it! That could be dangerous!
Locking lug contact could be minimal and headspace could be off!
You could disassemble a different Garand bolt and grab the firing pin and ejector from it, but there's no point. You need your own. Buy the parts and look up videos to disassemble, buy the garand bolt tool, or take it to a smith.
FWIW, Mark Novak has a great episode (or two?) about Garand actions and headspace on these:


One of my favourite GunTube channels. Spending 45 minutes watching him checker a grip is pleasure and an honor.
 
Not trying to climb down your throat but until you are more familiar with firearms in general, maybe take a knowledgeable buddy with you before you buy anything else.

If the seller here is making good on this, that’s great, but there are sellers who will turn their backs on you once the money has transferred.

Kind of a shame but not everyone is a gentleman.

You live and learn, I had done quite a bit of research on what to look for on a Garand, and also on the seller, but never really considered that such parts would be entirely missing.
 
Everyone can learn from this.
Every firearm, new or old, should be disassembled, cleaned, and inspected by the owner before shooting them.
Especially old surplus rifles, really need to be familiar with every part and piece and the operation.
 
Just wanted to close this thread up by saying the seller has repaired the M1, and I took it to the range last weekend, and it shoots fine now, it's reasonably accurate and no problems but a couple of jams, but damn does the barrel heat up! The wood on the top of the barrel was almost too hot to touch after 60 rounds over the course of an hour of shooting, I can't imagine how hot the barrels of GIs fighting waves of Chinese soldiers in Korea would have been, in some of those battles I have read about, they were probably shooting 60 rounds in a minute or two!

Most importantly, I wanted to thank the members of this forum for being so very helpful.
 
Thanks Machman, I did know that early(?) M1s had problems firing if the top cartridge was on the wrong side, but I never thought about making it easier to load, mine was a bit finicky, but my friend found that loading 7 cartridges instead of 8 solved the issue. I will try the way this video suggests next time I go to the range
 
This is a cautionary tale. Military technical control of Garand rifles ended 50-60 years ago, and there are many opportunities for things to go wrong in civilian hands. This is a fairly forgiving rifle, but parts and expertise are drying up. There are quite a few on lines sources for inspection and functional checks.
 
Hello,

I'm a total newbie here, and a newbie to collecting firearms, so let me know if I posted in the wrong place.

I purchased an M1 Garand a few months ago, took it to the range on Monday, and found out it wouldn't fire. Pulling the trigger led to a clicking as if it was being dry fired, but there was no evidence of the firing pin making contact with the bullet. This rifle was sold to me as a 30-06 chambered M1 and the clip fits in loaded with 30-06, but it doesn't fire, and when I try to take the unfired bullet out I pull back the bolt and the bullet stays with the bolt, but it takes a bit of work to remove the bullet from the bolt.

Has anyone seen this kind of thing? I wonder if it really is a .308 conversion or something.

Also, does anyone know of a good gunsmith in the Greater Toronto area for this type of rifle, I really would like to get this M! working.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
This happens to me sometimes when I go to shoot my M1 Garand and the clip doesnt latch properly.. I recently just came to the conclusion that my gun smith didn't put the .308 spacer block in my rifle so a lot of the time when I load my 308 rounds I have clip issues and this is when I get the click with no fire.. but it may be different than your issue but good to check nonetheless
 
The spacer block is only there to prevent loading longer .30-06 rounds in a 7.62 chamber. A 7.62 Garand functions nicely without it.

There are various causes and solutions related to clip latch function. First thing to check is a short/weak clip latch spring. also, check that the 'tail' of the clip latch isn't making contact with the stock. Removing and cleaning the clip latch pin and the pin hole in the receiver is another idea. Trying an unworn en block is another possibility.
 
Hello,

I'm a total newbie here, and a newbie to collecting firearms, so let me know if I posted in the wrong place.

I purchased an M1 Garand a few months ago, took it to the range on Monday, and found out it wouldn't fire. Pulling the trigger led to a clicking as if it was being dry fired, but there was no evidence of the firing pin making contact with the bullet. This rifle was sold to me as a 30-06 chambered M1 and the clip fits in loaded with 30-06, but it doesn't fire, and when I try to take the unfired bullet out I pull back the bolt and the bullet stays with the bolt, but it takes a bit of work to remove the bullet from the bolt.

Has anyone seen this kind of thing? I wonder if it really is a .308 conversion or something.

Also, does anyone know of a good gunsmith in the Greater Toronto area for this type of rifle, I really would like to get this M! working.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Always remember to watch your thumb!!
 
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