Hunting rifle crown

regulate34 said:
a deeper recessed crown kind of cut?
a little more meat to take a hit?
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Exactly. At least a half cm deep. It doesn't have to be a large opening, just .050 to .075 inches larger diameter than the largest diameter of the bore.

All of the above suggestions about finger condoms/tape will do 99% of the job, but from past experience, especially on nasty weather, rough terrain hunts, the condoms/tape, are easily penetrated by sharp stone edges.

Sometimes you just can't avoid a fall, or dropping the firearm. Same goes for crud in a scabbard, detritus finds its way down into the bottom. It happens, no matter how careful you are.

Cutting a deeper recessed crown, where the muzzle is concentric 90 degrees to the bore, is not difficult if you don't go too deep.

I don't like cutting threads on muzzles, just my choice, and the suggestion of a sleeve would work just fine if you want to go that route.
 
bearhunter said:
Exactly. At least a half cm deep. It doesn't have to be a large opening, just .050 to .075 inches larger diameter than the largest diameter of the bore.

All of the above suggestions about finger condoms/tape will do 99% of the job, but from past experience, especially on nasty weather, rough terrain hunts, the condoms/tape, are easily penetrated by sharp stone edges.

Sometimes you just can't avoid a fall, or dropping the firearm. Same goes for crud in a scabbard, detritus finds its way down into the bottom. It happens, no matter how careful you are.

Cutting a deeper recessed crown, where the muzzle is concentric 90 degrees to the bore, is not difficult if you don't go too deep.

I don't like cutting threads on muzzles, just my choice, and the suggestion of a sleeve would work just fine if you want to go that route.
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Yes. Cut a recessed crown and tape it.
 
pathfinder76 said:
You can do the same thing without messing around with threads and thread protectors. Why would you need to do that? Replacing the tread protector after you beat it up has nothing whatsoever to do with the crown.

Removing metal from the muzzle end of a barrel to replace it with a threaded cap makes zero sense to me. What are we doing to the muzzle of a rifle that requires replacing it?
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I was stating it as an option. As others have already mentioned a recessed crown. And there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. It's a perfectly fine option for a threaded barrel if you don't want to run a brake, and you still want extra crown protection.

And it does have everything to do with the crown, it's a added later of protection for the crown, and if it gets dinged up, you can just replace it. What do you mean it has nothing to do with anything? If it has dings in it, it saved your crown. And if you don't want to see dings in it, some people like how their rifles, or pieces on the rifles look, plus if the escaping gas is effected at all, you would want to replace it.

And since when is giving someone multiple options a bad thing? I know if I genuinely ask a question, I like to hear multiple answers so I can decide for myself. You can cut different types of crowns on a lathe, some protect more than others. You can also cut threads, which opens you up for more options. Even cut a recessed crown with threads.
 
DGY said:
The crown isn’t the end of the barrel or just the very last bit of riflings, the crown is the entire thing. If you cut the barrel and leave it as is there is no crown, the crown is the finish product including the very last bit of riflings, the tip of the barrel it the way it is shaped to protect the very last bit of riflings.

Anyway just keep tape at the end of your barrel done! I’ve done that for well as long as I’ve had a hunting rifle. Never damaged a crown yet can it happens yes just recrown!
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The actual crown and what is most important is exactly where the bullet leaves tha barrel. You can hacksaw a barrel off quite crooked and if you finish the crown with a piloted 60 degree cutter and leave all the crooked hacksaw marks, it will shoot as well as if you carefully machined the whole end of the barrel. I have done that exact experiment many years ago. Round, flat, recessed, 11 degree, all matters not... it is what you do where the bullet loses contact with the barrel.
 
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guntech said:
The actual crown and what is most important is exactly where the bullet leaves tha barrel. You can hacksaw a barrel off quite crooked and if you finish the crown with a piloted 60 degree cutter and leave all the crooked hacksaw marks, it will shoot as well as if you carefully machined the whole end of the barrel. I have done that exact experiment many years ago. Round, flat, recessed, 11 degree, all matters not... it is what you do where the bullet loses contact with the barrel.
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I didn’t say it wasn’t, I just said that the term crown doesn’t refer uniquely about where the bullet loose contact with the barrel!
But whatever you know better than me and have been at it for way longer so I’m go with what you said .
 
 
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DGY said:
I didn’t say it wasn’t, I just said that the term crown doesn’t refer uniquely about where the bullet loose contact with the barrel!
But whatever you know better than me and have been at it for way longer so I’m go with what you said .
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You are correct as everyone refers to the crown as the entire face of the muzzle. Guntech is also correct that the crown is the exact part where the bullet exits the barrel.

But then it is a misnomer to everyone who says 11° target crown, or any other term. As they are referring to more than just the crown itself, they are referring to the entire face, or part of the face, not the crown itself.

And if you are using a 60° piloted crown cutter, you are Infact also cutting the face of the barrel, not just the crown. The "crown" as it is colloquially known as by everyone, and what everyone refers to almost always also includes the face of the barrel. And if you leave the crooked hacksaw marks afterwards even with a pilot, it does impart slightly different pressures axially on the bullet as all the gasses do not exist eventually concentrically all the way around the bullet. There are many texts stating this, and videos that show it does slightly change it.

There are also videos of people intentionally wrecking the crown itself, and how it effects accuracy. It effects it less than what your average hunter is going to notice. But a long range target shooter will definitely notice. To the original poster asking his question, recessing it is the easiest method to prevent damage that isn't directly into the end of the barrel. But there is nothing that is really going to stop that. Tape helps, but if you jam the end of your barrel into some steel, like a bolt on a quad rack or something, the tape will not protect a direct hit, it will dampen it some. But a direct hit from something like a end of a bolt, into the edge of the rifling on the crown will still get damaged, tape or no tape.
 
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guntech said:
I think the crown is where the bullet last touches the barrel while the complete end of the barrel is simply the muzzle... At least that works for me...
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Fair enough. I will see it the same way from now on make sense to me now!
 
I have been asking myself since years if a 60 deg crown is really the best angle. Also many use a counter sinker instead of a piloted version. My gut says forget the reamer/counter sinker and turn the complete shape to be sure it all runs true. Recess crown back as in Guntech's pic is what I also prefer. I have had several crowns that were just turned off straight without the 60 chamfer and shot really well. But they might be mechanically more sensitive.
edi
 
EJG said:
I have been asking myself since years if a 60 deg crown is really the best angle. Also many use a counter sinker instead of a piloted version. My gut says forget the reamer/counter sinker and turn the complete shape to be sure it all runs true. Recess crown back as in Guntech's pic is what I also prefer. I have had several crowns that were just turned off straight without the 60 chamfer and shot really well. But they might be mechanically more sensitive.
edi
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Single point cutting the crown is the most accurate way to cut your rifle crown, and very easy to change the angle by turning your compound rest. Your reamer/counter sink method you speak of will always introduce some sort of runout, less controllability, can damage the rifling with a pilot, and alot easier to have it chatter on you. And is limited to the cutter angle. It's the simpler method, but if you already have the barrel dialed in, your crazy not to single point cut it.
 
Did everyone get tired of arguing about the difference between clips and magazines or something?

If you hacksawed off the end of a barrel and broke the edge by any of many possible ways its crowned. If a gunsmith passed that to you’d have a conversion that started with WTF is this.
On the other hand, you can profile the muzzle in a classic hunter profile, a 11 degree target or recessed and not break that edge and it isn’t crowned. You can recrown a barrel without touching the profile.

Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is not putting it on a fruit salad😂
 
regulate34 said:
Hi guys.

i have a H&R 058 30-30win. i’m getting the barrel shortened to 18.5”.

looking for a Damage resistant Crown design.

this gun is going to be living on the front of a ATV for a work and ranch gun. cerakoted and williams ghost ring sights.

i have never damaged a crown personally but thought if there was a better style to go with might as well when it’s getting chopped.

thanks for any input
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Have you considered threading for a muzzle protector? If the protector ever gets damaged you can have a new one made.

Whenever I shorten a barrel I use the offcut to created a threaded muzzle protector. If there's enough material and enough room in the budget, I'll make multiples for the rifle.

I like this solution because the protector will be the same material with the same heat treatment and the same finish as your barrel.
 
Gumboots said:
Have you considered threading for a muzzle protector? If the protector ever gets damaged you can have a new one made.

Whenever I shorten a barrel I use the offcut to created a threaded muzzle protector. If there's enough material and enough room in the budget, I'll make multiples for the rifle.

I like this solution because the protector will be the same material with the same heat treatment and the same finish as your barrel.
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that’s a good idea.

i have to find another smith to cut the barrel. the one i town. their lathe won’t hold my barrel because of the block for locking to the action.
 
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