Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!

I have one and a friend has one in 308, mine is w/o forehand checkering but hers have the forehand checkering. We both paid around $800, for pretty much mint rifles.
Yep. That's about the price range: from $700/$750 and up for excellent quality HVAs. And as you go above $800, you can get some really nice ones.
 
Well thanks to this thread I've decided I need a HVA 1600/1640 lightweight/carbine or a clean 308, 30-06. Time to get shopping. I had a 1640 lightweight lined up but the owner decided to keep it. Can't say as I blame him.
 
Well thanks to this thread I've decided I need a HVA 1600/1640 lightweight/carbine or a clean 308, 30-06. Time to get shopping. I had a 1640 lightweight lined up but the owner decided to keep it. Can't say as I blame him.
Some 1640s in Thuddy-aught-Six

Really pretty fullstock: https://intersurplus.com/collections/fire-arms/products/husqvarna-1640-fullstock-in-30-06-sku-23009

Interesting accessories: https://intersurplus.com/collections/fire-arms/products/husqvarna-1640-in-30-06-sku-23019

Carbine length: https://intersurplus.com/products/husqvarna-1640-carbine-in-30-06?_pos=10&_sid=69fa643bb&_ss=r

Run-o'-the-mill 1640: https://intersurplus.com/collections/fire-arms/products/husqvarna-1640-in-30-06-sku-8164
 
Nice old rifle ,you inspired me to take a few pics of my old 9.3x57 Husqvarna.Anyone tell me the year and model of this rifle.
Yours is the same as mine (pictured), a Model 46. Small-ring Swedish 96 Mauser action. If i am reading the serial right yours is a 1934 manufacture. (1929 if that first number is a 2 rather than an 8.) Some nice walnut there in the buttstock especially, would refinish handsomely with the dents ironed out and etc.
 
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Right? If I was in the market for another one, and didn't mind getting brained with a frying pan, I'd seriously consider that fullstock. That's purdy AF.
If it was a 308…. I already have 4 30-06 so maybe it’s fare to say I don’t need an other one…
 
Right? If I was in the market for another one, and didn't mind getting brained with a frying pan, I'd seriously consider that fullstock. That's purdy AF.
That 3rd one with the engraving actually looks pretty decent. Im trying like hell to find a carbine without a Crack but they are far and few between. Seems like they all Crack at some point. May just be better off to grab one and have it repaired and not worry about it happening down the road.
 
I already have 4 30-06 so maybe it’s fare to say I don’t need an other one…
WRONG. The correct number of guns in any caliber is n+1, where n is the number of guns in that caliber which you already have.

Im trying like hell to find a carbine without a Crack but they are far and few between. Seems like they all Crack at some point. May just be better off to grab one and have it repaired and not worry about it happening down the road.
Cracks in the stock behind the tang are a common problem with these rifles, especially in the lighter versions with skinnier stocks. The repair is obviously dependent on the severity of the crack, type of wood and the finish. Prevention usually consists of glass bedding, and shaving back the stock inlet behind the tang so that the steel doesn't make contact with the wood directly aft of the action. This stops the recoil force acting on the stock through the tang. EDIT: unless you are good with gunsmithing woodwork (are good, not just confident :D) the latter is probably best left to a gunsmith.
 
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WRONG. The correct number of guns in any caliber is n+1, where n is the number of guns in that which you already have.


Cracks in the stock behind the tang are a common problem with these rifles, especially in the lighter versions with skinnier stocks. The repair is obviously dependent on the severity of the crack, type of wood and the finish. Prevention usually consists of glass bedding, and shaving back the stock inlet behind the tang so that the steel doesn't make contact with the wood directly aft of the action. This stops the recoil force acting on the stock through the tang. EDIT: unless you are good with gunsmithing woodwork (are good, not just confident :D) the latter is probably best left to a gunsmith.
I agree
 
WRONG. The correct number of guns in any caliber is n+1, where n is the number of guns in that which you already have.


Cracks in the stock behind the tang are a common problem with these rifles, especially in the lighter versions with skinnier stocks. The repair is obviously dependent on the severity of the crack, type of wood and the finish. Prevention usually consists of glass bedding, and shaving back the stock inlet behind the tang so that the steel doesn't make contact with the wood directly aft of the action. This stops the recoil force acting on the stock through the tang. EDIT: unless you are good with gunsmithing woodwork (are good, not just confident :D) the latter is probably best left to a gunsmith.
I have a brand new in box Tikka T3x compact in 308 sitting in the safe but here u am looking at getting a HVA. Am I crazy?. The Tikka just doesn't have that warm classy feel to me though
 
I have a brand new in box Tikka T3x compact in 308 sitting in the safe but here u am looking at getting a HVA. Am I crazy?. The Tikka just doesn't have that warm classy feel to me though
A few Tikka models have proper wooden stocks, and there's something there that plastic or aluminum just don't have.
 
Yours is the same as mine (pictured), a Model 46. Small-ring Swedish 96 Mauser action. If i am reading the serial right yours is a 1934 manufacture. (1929 if that first number is a 2 rather than an 8.) Some nice walnut there in the buttstock especially, would refinish handsomely with the dents ironed out and etc.
Yes the first number is a 2 so it’s a 1929 ,thanks for the info
 
The only one that didn't shoot had an extremely poor quality bore, but they have all otherwise shot well!
I have read (most recently Chuck Hawks i believe it was) that the surplus Swedish 96 Mauser actions Husqvarna used for their Model 46's were the most inherently accurate military Mausers ever produced. The first time i went to the range with mine i was really truly surprised by the accuracy, perhaps the most accurate rifle i've done a test firing with. (All this stuff about the 9.3x57 being "a potato lobber" paints an unfair picture.) A factor here apparently was the precision of the bore, tolerance being low. I can believe this - i discovered early in the handloading process for my x57 that neck-turning has to be done to shave down the brass or the resulting rounds will chamber but not lock-up.
 
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9.3 caliber is inherently accurate. I never encoutenred a 9.3 rifle that can't shoot - not saying it can't happen, but from all those 9.3x57 or 62 I own of many different makers, they all shoot more than decent groups without tweaking.
Now, for the M/94 used for building the M46 and the other retired/surplused M/96 actions, the Swedes used to build their competition rifles on those receivers... I think it says it all.
Regarding the 9.3x57, some chambers have very tight necks and need neck turning to chamber without force.
 
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