The ultimate front sight solution...for the cost of a case of beer.

misanthropist

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If you have to have a Navy sight I can't help you. Nobody has them at the moment and the US ones won't fit your barrel. But as luck would have it there is a much, much cheaper (and in many ways better) solution.

The main downside to the Navy sight, assuming you like the sight picture, is that any time you pull the gas plug you might be affecting your sight alignment. This is not intolerable but it does get annoying and if your gun is a SHTF gun, that is not the best system. You will have to clean your gas system occasionally, and any time you do, you will affect yuour rifle's zero. Not bad for a paper puncher...not good otherwise.

There is also the minor annoyance of the shortened sight radius. It's a little less accurate to shoot with the front sight set further back like that. I never noticed this being a big problem, but it's there. What is really needed is a front sight out at the end of the barrel. Why not use the one you already have?

First of all, don't buy a flash hider. (Savings so far...40-50 bucks.)

Next, dont buy a Navy sight. (Savings total...maybe another 75-80 bucks even if you can find one. So we are in the $120 savings range now.)

So you chopped your barrel and got the usual 1/2" by 28tpi end on it...

moraandflashhider013nr0.jpg


Now whack that barrel stub out of your stock Norinco flash hider, and take it to a machine shop. Here is what you will ask for:

1. The splines must be bored out so the inside of the hider is smooth.

moraandflashhider018mq0.jpg


See right at the back there? No three splines sticking in anymore. Smoooooth.

2. The section immediately past where the barrel stops has to be bored out to 1/2"x28 threads per inch, just like the inside of AR flash hiders. See the threads?

moraandflashhider019hb1.jpg


3. You also need a 1/2" crush washer. In this pic you can see the section that you bore and thread, and that's a crush washer next to the flash hider. The gun smith I go to supplied me with mine.

moraandflashhider016aoz2.jpg


4. On the bottom of the FH, have them put in a little set screw. This is just to lock the thing in place. I don't know if it's necessary or not, but my setup works. I have around 150 rounds through it. It was hard to get off for these pictures so it's not shaking loose.

moraandflashhider020yc0.jpg


I don't want to tell you how little this cost me in case the machinist was doing me a favour! But rest assured that this is not much work. It might cost you about what a flash hider would have cost. It might be less.

You now have an extremely simple, effective front sight and flash hider, and it cost you something like forty bucks! Installation is simple:

1. Screw it on.

2. If it doesn't line up perfectly straight up and down, rub the compression washer on a sharpening stone for a few seconds and try again. It doesn't take much grinding to change the front sight indexing.

moraandflashhider011yu5.jpg


That's it! I prefer this to the Navy sight, personally. It's cheaper, and faster, and you already have the parts, and it requires no maintainence.

The flash hider that's going on my folder is getting cut down to half length and since it's effectively crenellated, I'm going to sharpen up those points a little. Why? Because I want to be able to stab right through a zombie skull if necessary, and because I want every last bit of length cut off that I can.

This setup is about as long as a vortex, too, as the shoulder of the FH sits about an inch back on the barrel. My crenellated stabbing version will be shorter than a vortex.

And, of course, this frees you from having to buy a navy sight.

Enjoy!
 
I don't know the specific diameter offhand...I just threw a set of calipers on mine and it specs out around .613" but it's not a critical dimension. There's probably 25 thou space between the barrel and the inside of the flash hider there.

Glad you guys enjoyed the thread...for some reason people kept telling me this wasn't possible but I sat down one evening with a flash hider and couldn't think of a reason it wouldn't work. And in fact there's tons of meat on the thing where you need to thread it, so it seems pretty trouble-free to me.

I'll definitely post up the completed attack hider when I'm finished with it!
 
Awesomeness...I was thinking the same thing with one of the spare Norc barrel assemblies and re-using the flash suppressor in the same manner.

Glad you did it before I set to it and posted awesome pics for all to try out for themselves.

:Thumbs way up:

WINZ
 
Had you been thinking you could have had an open offer to buy Chicom flash hiders for $5 from anyone who had upgraded, taken them down to your buddy, and then sold them as Canadian-made, metric, thread-on flash hiders for big bucks.:)
 
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Had you been thinking you could have had an open offer to buy Chicom flash hiders for $5 from anyone who had upgraded, taken them down to your buddy, and then sold them as Canadian-made, metric, thread-on flash hiders for big bucks.:)

I thought about it...to be honest I thought about trying to buy 100 rifles, cutting them down, doing the sights, and selling them for $600 each...but I don't really have the time, or the disposable income. I probably could have made twenty grand by the time everything got added up but if there's one thing I've learned about the gun business...there ain't no such thing as a free lunch.

So I just decided to tell everybody how to do it for themselves. Also I'm a damn commie.
 
Zombie awareness week

3. You also need a 1/2" crush washer. In this pic you can see the section that you bore and thread, and that's a crush washer next to the flash hider. The gun smith I go to supplied me with mine.

...

The flash hider that's going on my folder is getting cut down to half length and since it's effectively crenellated, I'm going to sharpen up those points a little. Why? Because I want to be able to stab right through a zombie skull if necessary, and because I want every last bit of length cut off that I can.

The crush washer is a good touch. Wouldn't have thought of that myself.

...

And, zombies are something all of us need to keep in the back of our minds while going about our daily lives. So, just because you haven't seen one doesn't mean they aren't out there (like raccoons and garbage cans).
 
The flash hider that's going on my folder is getting cut down to half length and since it's effectively crenellated, I'm going to sharpen up those points a little. Why? Because I want to be able to stab right through a zombie skull if necessary, and because I want every last bit of length cut off that I can.

Are you sure you want to cut the front off the FH? Any possibility one of those "points" could get bent into the bullet path without the front end being held in place like it is right now?

A little rough handling like the muzzle hitting a wall or concrete driveway is not impossible.
 
It's funny .... before Geordie dropped this completed , genius idea, on my work bench, I was milling lands on my chopped barrel to mate with the F/H splines.... then i had a 1/2 x 28 thread protector i was going to turn into a castlenut..... simple enough :runaway: :runaway: NOT.... waas a bugger to get the F/H to sit true once the new castlenut was tightened. I have moved on and learned from the ideas of others :D :D


Then in comes Geordie with his completed and installed norc F/H ........ simply genius. I have a usgi lugged flash hider being prepped as we speak.
 
Are you sure you want to cut the front off the FH? Any possibility one of those "points" could get bent into the bullet path without the front end being held in place like it is right now?

A little rough handling like the muzzle hitting a wall or concrete driveway is not impossible.

Actually I got my hands on one of the oddball "not vented" ones to use for this. Otherwise I think you are probably right, there would definitely be the possibility of dinging a fin into the bullet's path.

Still if you cut them pretty short it might not be an issue.
 
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