Thinking of buying a S&W revolver

You can't go wrong with a Smith & Wesson revolver, excellent quality to cost ratio.

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Shot with FinePix E550 at 2008-09-26
 
Another vote for the 625. I just picked one up and couldn't be happier. It's currently off to Gunnar for an action job and fiber optic front sight but man is that thing accurate.

Anyone have any experience with the Performance center 625? Is the additional cost worth it?
 
S&W 610... cylinders modded to accept '10mm Magnum' (almost same length as .44magnum, but .40 instead - Starline sells the brass) :D

Wait... what? Are you saying all 610s are chambered to accept 10mm Magnum, or that you had yours modded? If the latter, where??

Nope, the real answer is "no one, really".... those big target stocks are just for show.... :p

Nice collection though, Jaybird! :cool:

Here's what "fits" my hand in S&W's...

The finger-grooved Pachmayrs are the worst for me. They actually hurt my hands after a few shots. I like the target grips just fine!
 
I have a performance center 625 but have only shot it 2 or 3 times - damn job to pay for toys has taken up too much of my time this year. It's quicker pointing than the normal 5 incher and recoils a bit more ( less front end weight) ,and has a really smooth DA trigger. But the difference is more one of degree - it's not like night and day. I suspect it's probably close to a tuned 4 incher - which i hope to try a side by side comparison some time as Repete on this board has a 4 incher.
 
John C

Can you tell me about the front sight on the 625PC. Is it removable and if so what other sights did it come with? Any fiber optic sights?
 
Smith

I have had most of the Smith models, choose carefully; try the weight of the different models before you buy and pick what feels best. You will be very happy.
 
Dont have the gun... I've just read of a few Americans who have had the smithing done. Seems like a very cool idea. They are from factory only able to accept 10mm and .40S&W.

:)

Wait... what? Are you saying all 610s are chambered to accept 10mm Magnum, or that you had yours modded? If the latter, where??



The finger-grooved Pachmayrs are the worst for me. They actually hurt my hands after a few shots. I like the target grips just fine!
 
Yeah, too much freebore?
I read one post where an individual said the .40S&W accuracy suffers a bit with the '10mm Mag' enhancement.

I still think it's awesome. I want to get a .44Magnum revolver, but then don't want to be locked at .44Magnum cost and readily available factory ammo.
I like the idea of something almost as powerful but also able to use 10mm/.40S&W ammunition.

(Yes, I'd be reloading for all the above)

Anyway, it's a mute point if no one in Canada could do the job. Starline brass is available though so it'd be a doable project. :)
 
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Dont have the gun... I've just read of a few Americans who have had the smithing done. Seems like a very cool idea. They are from factory only able to accept 10mm and .40S&W.

:)
That's what I figured, but your phrasing gave me reason to hope...

Any CGN's with the Model 610 to confirm or refute this claim?
I should get mine in a couple of weeks, I'll know soon enough.
 
Didn't I hear something about the 686 having problems with the forcing cone with .357 pressures? Pitting and whatnot?
 
I love my model 66-2. The K-frame size is better for my smaller hands than my N-frame model 29-4. The Hogue grips I put on it feel absolutely PERFECT.

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Didn't I hear something about the 686 having problems with the forcing cone with .357 pressures? Pitting and whatnot?
I've not heard that myself. There are forcing cone issues with some K Frames firing magnum loads, but the only similar thing I can think of for the 686's is the firing pin bushing recall on the original 686's and 686-1's. This problem caused some revolvers to bind up when fired with certain types of magnum ammunition. It's a fairly easy fix (and can still be done and paid for by S&W) but I haven't yet bothered to get my "no dash" 686 done. I probably should someday, but I've never had the problem.
 
Didn't I hear something about the 686 having problems with the forcing cone with .357 pressures? Pitting and whatnot?
I too heard of this once, with SOME .357 revolvers.
Deeper research on a proven faultless piece, often pointed the finger at too light bullets, (110 & 125 HP high velocity factory ammo) was found to flame cut the top receiver strap. This is belived to be caused by unburned(?) powder literally flame cutting the steel. I am not sure if different steel substitutes (ie: stainless steel) would resolve this.
Most shooters merely just steered away from the lighter, high velocity, copper jacketed, factory ammunition. If someone has more accurate technical details, please pipe in...
 
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