MY Colt 38 Super......

kokanee king

kokanee king

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Location
Didsbury, Alberta
Well after many sleepless nights waiting for this to come in, here she is. I didnt strip her totally down as im leaving that up to Barry at Bits and Pieces if he is wanting to give it a whirl. NAA, just so you know she is in pretty good shape for being almost 60yrs old :) Enjoy my multiple pics :D

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Thats my photo shoot. I know its long but I took 32 pics in total but thought i wont add them all :D Now Im hoping that at least one 1911 fan out there has the blue book of pistols handy and im wondering if you could look up my pistol for me to see if its a collector or just a shooter? Will help in determining if I do indeed get a restoration done or just checked to make sure its safe to shoot.

Darin
 
Might need a serial number with the last 3 numbers as ###, to establish when it was made. It might be the first .38 super built or the 1 millionth one built, the serial number will determine.
 
Wow, that thing is a mess but it looks like it will clean up quite nicely! Where did you find it?
Are you are having it refinished? If you just deside to shoot it you will not remove or destroy any collectors value. Refinishing it will. I would say, to me it would be a shooter. I would give it a sandblast to remove all the gunk and cover her in BBQ paint! I've had BBQ paint on a great 1911 .45 I put together from parts 20 years ago and it still looks just fine.

Scott
 
I did got to proofhouse.com It was built between 1950 and 1951.

If there is NO COLLECTORS value for this "beater" then im getting it bead blasted and parkerized. Id do the BBQ paint trick, but I SUCK with aerosol cans :D
 
m39a2 said:
Wow, that thing is a mess but it looks like it will clean up quite nicely! Where did you find it?
Are you are having it refinished? If you just deside to shoot it you will not remove or destroy any collectors value. Refinishing it will. I would say, to me it would be a shooter. I would give it a sandblast to remove all the gunk and cover her in BBQ paint! I've had BBQ paint on a great 1911 .45 I put together from parts 20 years ago and it still looks just fine.

Scott
Click to expand...

I bought it off Weimjack right here on this website. I paid $575 shipped to BC.

Oh, dont you worry my friend...it will BE a shooter either way :eek:
 
prproulx said:
Unless Lee Harvey Oswald shot his dad with it as a kid I don't think it has any collector value.:D
Replace any worn parts, get it professionally refinished and shoot it!
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From the amount of nicks and scratches on it, im almost thinkin SOMEBODY got pistol whipped with it :D

As for refinishing, im waiting to hear back from Barry at Bits of Pieces.
 
prproulx said:
Replace any worn parts, get it professionally refinished and shoot it!
Click to expand...

+1

Whom ever previously owned it and neglected it in such a manner deserves this: :slap:

However, cleaned up, refinished and with a nice set of grips she should look pretty good I think.... ;) :cool:
 
So the boys at 1911.org tell me to get it professionally restored and then re-blued. Barry from bits and pieces suggested bead blasting and parkerized. Im torn as to what finish would look the best for it. You guys have any ideas?
 
kokanee king said:
So the boys at 1911.org tell me to get it professionally restored and then re-blued. Barry from bits and pieces suggested bead blasting and parkerized. Im torn as to what finish would look the best for it. You guys have any ideas?
Click to expand...

Parkerizing??!! Senior, in the spirit of .38 super you must make this gun shiney! Either gloss blue or hard chrome is my vote.
Jason Spencer in Ottawa does amazing bluing.
 
A WORD TO THE WISE- get the barrel changed to a bar-sto or something similar that HEADSPACES ON THE CASE MOUTH-i had a mk4 series 70 in 38 super, and you couldn't get anymore than pie plate groups out of it- this is common in this caliber due to the fact that it headspaces on the semi-rim and often slips off- this was WELL DOCUMENTED years ago- you also might want to do a LOT of load development with different weights of bullets- the factory stuff is 130 grain fmj , but i found that 124 9mms worked when i had it- but the heavy 9mms weren't available at the time- if you wanted a heavy 9mm, you used the 38 super bullet- remember it's 355 diameter and not 357- and the original finish is either colt blue or NICKEL
 
t-star said:
A WORD TO THE WISE- get the barrel changed to a bar-sto or something similar that HEADSPACES ON THE CASE MOUTH-i had a mk4 series 70 in 38 super, and you couldn't get anymore than pie plate groups out of it- this is common in this caliber due to the fact that it headspaces on the semi-rim and often slips off- this was WELL DOCUMENTED years ago- you also might want to do a LOT of load development with different weights of bullets- the factory stuff is 130 grain fmj , but i found that 124 9mms worked when i had it- but the heavy 9mms weren't available at the time- if you wanted a heavy 9mm, you used the 38 super bullet- remember it's 355 diameter and not 357- and the original finish is either colt blue or NICKEL
Click to expand...

He's already up on that... ;)
 
kokanee king said:
So the boys at 1911.org tell me to get it professionally restored and then re-blued. Barry from bits and pieces suggested bead blasting and parkerized. Im torn as to what finish would look the best for it. You guys have any ideas?
Click to expand...

Bead blasting is the "quick & dirty" and probably the easiest thing to have done. It would make it look like "parkerizing", though and more like a WWII USGI that a 1950's commercial pistol, which is what it is.

Here's what the "bead blast & reblue" finish looks like:

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Personally, I'd get the side flats of the frame and slide polished & hi lustre reblued, careful not to remove any of the script, markings or proofs. And have the radius's and top of the slide done in a matte blue. New grips and new grips screws [proper slotted, though.... anyone who puts hex grips screws in an old beauty like this deserves.... :slap: ].

And of course, as we have already discussed seek out a .38 Super barrel that headspaces on the case mouth and not on the case semi-rim [the .38 Super is a semi-rimmed case]. I'd keep the original barrel though, as it "goes with" the pistol. A new barrel will probably require a new, properly fitted bushing, too.
 
So if memory serves me correctly this is my list of things to do with this:

-Newer barrel and bushing Colt 70 series NAA?
-Re-blued
-retain the lettering but get the pitting out and rust
-new sights?

anything else?
 
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