Reloading Trick - Checking Primer Pockets
- Thread starter Glock4ever
- Start date
My post was just trying to prevent the fellow from a serious injury.
If he keeps on using loads that swell the primer pockets on every shot, he is heading for an accident.
But I guess that wasn't important enough to post about.
The brass case holds and seals the pressure. Correct. In the case shown where the rifle steel actually blew apart, no, the case would not protect against this. I didn't intend it to be taken that way, but wasn't clear enough.
However, if the case fails to hold the pressure, by errupting, say, most of the pressure will escape, likely splintering the stock and maybe taking a few minor parts with it.
This is what happens when a shorter cartridge, say a 300 Savage, is fired in a longer chamber, like a 30-06.
My post was meant to conveigh the message that shooting cartridges that greatly mishape on firing, may cause one to come apart and allow this to happen.
By the way, what did cause the rifle to blow up?
Not sure what specific rifle you are referring to, but in every case were a rifle is "blown up", it is because the limits of strength of the action and/or barrel were exceeded for whatever reason, usually an overload or an obstruction. But not because of the relative strength of one brand of brass over another.
BTW, I have experienced loosening of primer pockets in Federal .223 brass in as little as 4 reloadings of loads that were no where near max. It is a well known fact that current Fedeal brass is on the soft side. I also have Fed brass from years ago that does not display these tendencies.
BTW, I have experienced loosening of primer pockets in Federal .223 brass in as little as 4 reloadings of loads that were no where near max. It is a well known fact that current Fedeal brass is on the soft side. I also have Fed brass from years ago that does not display these tendencies.
Glock4ever
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Edmonton, AB
H4831: It is call private message, so spare me the melodramatic safety warnings, don't assume everyone here is a newbie loader. Calvin is a pretty safe loader so I am pretty confident that he knows what he is doing. I have seen primer pockets go loose after a few loadings which can be traced back to swaging or even uniforming, doesn't mean the load is over pressure. Back to the original question - where can I get pin gauges for just the sizes I am interested in (namely larger then proper pocket size)?
I'm not a pin gauge expert, but I believe they are sold in sets. If you want a particular size (single pin), perhaps Eagleye's advice about having one made is your best bet?
Maybe there's a business opportunity for the machinists on the forum.......
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You could do this - get a 7/32 drill bit, a clean one no dents or abuse. A new one's what, $4? Lap it down with a bit of emery cloth or lapping compound to about .209" - use your micrometer to make sure it's concentric - not the cutting end obviously. Should fit nicely. Tighter doesn't matter loose is not good. Might have to mess with your new sizing tool's diameter to determine exactly what's a go or a no-go for the way you prime .209 - .210". Just an idea. And get yourself a primer pocket uniformer and a #45 wire drill bit (.082") to make sure the flash holes are the right size. I've started to use a flash hole deburring tool on all new brass now and you wouldn't believe how the brass flakes add up fast - they're punched and anything but round like they should be. Makes a difference, sometimes a big one.
Glock4ever
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Edmonton, AB
SBtennex: I have a 7/32 drill bit I am going to see if I can modify, failing that a lot of the ideas the guys were mentioning here are good. I think if I go to a hardware store and find some wire in the appropriate gauge(?) and I could improvise one. I just want something that is fast so I can pop it into a primer pocket and if it doesn't go in I can know to keep the brass. I hate trimming brass only to chuck it. I don't bother with uniforming or flash hole deburring, I have the tools but I buy only lapua brass so I use the uniforming tool after I fire to clean the pockets of carbon but it generally doesn't pick up any brass. Deburring isn't required as lapua drills their flash holes.
That's why we pay what we do for Lapua - the drilled flash holes and very accurate and consistent sizing, necks and flash holes. Good luck!
Glock4ever
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Edmonton, AB
I just bought a pair of gauges from another member here on the board. I will let y'all know how they work; maybe some feed back on what can be improved about them (they look like they are improvised).
Innovative
Regular
- Location
- Casselberry, Florida
Glock4ever,
The gauge is a good idea. however, take a look at what your primers should look like.
Visit our website at www.larrywillis.com and you'll see how to avoid having your primers get loose in the first place.
- Innovative
The gauge is a good idea. however, take a look at what your primers should look like.
Visit our website at www.larrywillis.com and you'll see how to avoid having your primers get loose in the first place.
- Innovative
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
I'm not sure what the big mystery is. If you don't feel any resistance when seating the primer its time to cull the case, not one more firing, right now. It doesn't hurt to deprime live primers, just be gentle. If there is no resistance to the primer going in, there will be none to it coming out. Continuing to use brass that will not hold the primer tightly is false economy. Buy another 100 pieces of brass so you have new brass to take the place of the case that has reached the end of its life. As previously stated you might get a little extra case life by using CCI primers which appear to be slightly larger.
Glock4ever
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Edmonton, AB
Ok gents, if you will read the original post - I am aware of how to load and what pressures are safe. I am not interested in wasting time trying salvage primers or re-use cases that are pooched. Many of you are assuming that I am reloading approx 100-200 rounds and that is my fault as it was not clear in my original post. I am reloading for a .223 (AR-15) so I am reloading in the thousands. I am not tossing all my brass out and buying new brass. I can't even guarantee that all the brass I pick up on the range will be my original stuff so I am looking to streamline my reloading process so I am not wasting time doing work on cases that are garbage. Hence why I want a gauge. I am thinking my reloading process will be:
1.) Check primer pockets. If it is too loose garbage.
2.) Resize Brass.
3.) Check brass with case gauge. It won't go in all the way - toss in the garbage.
4.) Trim brass.
5.) Prime.
6.) Charge
7.) Seat Bullet/crimp
1.) Check primer pockets. If it is too loose garbage.
2.) Resize Brass.
3.) Check brass with case gauge. It won't go in all the way - toss in the garbage.
4.) Trim brass.
5.) Prime.
6.) Charge
7.) Seat Bullet/crimp
If all you are looking for is a go-no go gauge why not use a reamer or uniformer as one? It should be the correct size and if it slops around, the pocket is too loose. If too tight you have the tool right there. Which is what I thought you asked in the original post.
