Budget is still being determined between myself and the wife. For myself, I don't mind spending a little more, keeping it below $1500, (which i believes obtains a decent rifle) and picking up a used firearm. However, if theres comparable products at a cheaper price, I'm all ears
New to hunting and rifles
- Thread starter NitwiT
- Start date
This will sound boring, but here it is:
Get a 30-06. They are cheap, you can get them from ANY manufacturer, ammo is prevalent and cheap, and you can literally hunt anything and everything with them.
Secondly, get a Leupold scope in 3.5x10.
That will get you a hunting package that will last you for your lifetime, for well within your $1500 marker.
Personally, I would check out Tradex, http://www.tradeexcanada.com/index.php?option=com_paxgallery&task=table&gid=5 as they have some very good deals on their Husqvarnas and such. I would look at their FN mausers and BRNOs if they have any. Beautiful, classic rifles, with more character than the remchester garbage you see in gun shops these days. Pick one with a "excellent bore" and that is "drilled and tapped for weaver-type bases".
Get a 30-06. They are cheap, you can get them from ANY manufacturer, ammo is prevalent and cheap, and you can literally hunt anything and everything with them.
Secondly, get a Leupold scope in 3.5x10.
That will get you a hunting package that will last you for your lifetime, for well within your $1500 marker.
Personally, I would check out Tradex, http://www.tradeexcanada.com/index.php?option=com_paxgallery&task=table&gid=5 as they have some very good deals on their Husqvarnas and such. I would look at their FN mausers and BRNOs if they have any. Beautiful, classic rifles, with more character than the remchester garbage you see in gun shops these days. Pick one with a "excellent bore" and that is "drilled and tapped for weaver-type bases".
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Welcome to the site!
My advice to you if you plan on doing a lot of hunting locally (Lower Mainland) is to look at something in stainless steel. As you know, we get some crappy weather here and the stainless rifles stand up better than blued. You still have to take care of them, don't get me wrong, but they are easier to maintain.
Caliber...I would have to go with the 30-06 for you to start out with. Like previously mentioned, it will work for everything on your list and ammo is readily available. Of course, once you get hooked on this Gunnut 'thing', you'll end up with many different calibers and styles to suit your various different hunting conditions. Call it 'fine tuning'.
At least that's what I keep telling myself.
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My advice to you if you plan on doing a lot of hunting locally (Lower Mainland) is to look at something in stainless steel. As you know, we get some crappy weather here and the stainless rifles stand up better than blued. You still have to take care of them, don't get me wrong, but they are easier to maintain.
Caliber...I would have to go with the 30-06 for you to start out with. Like previously mentioned, it will work for everything on your list and ammo is readily available. Of course, once you get hooked on this Gunnut 'thing', you'll end up with many different calibers and styles to suit your various different hunting conditions. Call it 'fine tuning'.
At least that's what I keep telling myself..
NitwiT,
I'm not sure your size will protect you from recoil. If anything the bigger guys don't roll with it as well so just have to absorb it. If you get a heavier recoiling gun, (i.e. anything bigger than say a 7mm-08 or a 308 or so) that's no problem - just very carefully consider getting a 22 as well, and shoot it ten times as much as the big gun. Recoil is a funny thing, especially when you're just starting out. Even if you enjoy the recoil (many do), it is quite sudden and your subconscious notices and can learn to flinch. A 22 teaches you that recoil is no big deal.
Figuring a 22 into your first purchases anyhow is a very good idea because for most it is the only affordable way to learn to shoot ($0.02/shot vs ~$1.00+ per shot).
RG
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I'm not sure your size will protect you from recoil. If anything the bigger guys don't roll with it as well so just have to absorb it. If you get a heavier recoiling gun, (i.e. anything bigger than say a 7mm-08 or a 308 or so) that's no problem - just very carefully consider getting a 22 as well, and shoot it ten times as much as the big gun. Recoil is a funny thing, especially when you're just starting out. Even if you enjoy the recoil (many do), it is quite sudden and your subconscious notices and can learn to flinch. A 22 teaches you that recoil is no big deal.
Figuring a 22 into your first purchases anyhow is a very good idea because for most it is the only affordable way to learn to shoot ($0.02/shot vs ~$1.00+ per shot).
RG
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- Location
- Kamloops, BC
My first gun was a remington, and my last two have been winchesters...I didnt think they were garbage
My first gun was a remington, and my last two have been winchesters...I didnt think they were garbage
Haha don't take it personally. Most everyone on the forum here knows I have a thing for classic CRF Mausers, and will even go as far as to say as they are the best action ever devised for a hunting rifle. Thusly, if it isn't a Mauser, then it's trash and useless.
I even turned my Stevens into a Mauser. And yes, I will be the first one to call my Stevens "trash" too!
Anyway my apologies on the thread diversion. Let's get it back on track.
boy, just when i think i'm starting to narrow down my options, along comes swedish guns, and other imports
how does a 30-06 get its designation, is it a bigger bore or smaller bore than a 300 win mag or .308
how well would these husqvarnas do in long range shots
btw, i'm not overly worried about the recoil flinch, i've heard of it, and should be able to keep myself aware of it.
aslo, on the "excellent bore" note, is good to excellent what im looking for? or just excellent
how does a 30-06 get its designation, is it a bigger bore or smaller bore than a 300 win mag or .308
how well would these husqvarnas do in long range shots
btw, i'm not overly worried about the recoil flinch, i've heard of it, and should be able to keep myself aware of it.
aslo, on the "excellent bore" note, is good to excellent what im looking for? or just excellent
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My first hunting rifle I bought it used .A 30/30 marlin with a scope for 400.00 bucks.
It was and still is my favourite. Go look at used shops for your first, then maybe you can save for all the other hunting equipment you will need or want.
When I first started......wow the money I went through. I am sure it was the same for all the hunters on this forum. Just the boots and camo.......and so on
Just have fun.....do your research and you will know the rifle you want when you se it.
It was and still is my favourite. Go look at used shops for your first, then maybe you can save for all the other hunting equipment you will need or want.
When I first started......wow the money I went through. I am sure it was the same for all the hunters on this forum. Just the boots and camo.......and so on
Just have fun.....do your research and you will know the rifle you want when you se it.
- Location
- Kamloops, BC
The 30-06 is one of the calibers that does not go along with the generic Such and such number = so many 1000ths of an inch.
A 30-06 was just a 30 cal. made in 1906. Its literally a 7.62 x 63 mm
Its smaller than a 300 Win. , and so you wont get as heavy as a grain or as much power as it, but the '06 has less recoil, and I believe you can still shoot a 220 grain bullet out of it, although mine liked 180s the best.
As for being compared to a 308, I would pick the 30-06, but I just like the caliber better.
A 30-06 was just a 30 cal. made in 1906. Its literally a 7.62 x 63 mm
Its smaller than a 300 Win. , and so you wont get as heavy as a grain or as much power as it, but the '06 has less recoil, and I believe you can still shoot a 220 grain bullet out of it, although mine liked 180s the best.
As for being compared to a 308, I would pick the 30-06, but I just like the caliber better.
Every week on the EE forum there are guns that I'd buy and hunt with.
Then go to the Optics exchange and buy a used variable scope scope in the range of 2x8 or 3x9.
You could do this for under a thousand easily, and be happy with your purchase.
Pick a common caliber, one that is easy for you to find ammo for and learn to shoot it.
Then go to the Optics exchange and buy a used variable scope scope in the range of 2x8 or 3x9.
You could do this for under a thousand easily, and be happy with your purchase.
Pick a common caliber, one that is easy for you to find ammo for and learn to shoot it.
Dukeoflawnchair
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Fort St John
T3's are nice...I've had the .308 and .338wm. The .338 hit like a pikkin hammer with a gun that light.
Anyhow, burning out your barrel has to do with how you shoot it just as much as what's coming out of it. I've heard people quote 1200-1500 for a .300wm (shooting full factory loads) before groups start opening up. If you give your barrel time to cool down between shots and keep it clean, I would hope to double that.
Overheating barrel = amplify effects of wear.
I would expect much more out of a .308 if cleaned and cooled properly.
Anyhow, burning out your barrel has to do with how you shoot it just as much as what's coming out of it. I've heard people quote 1200-1500 for a .300wm (shooting full factory loads) before groups start opening up. If you give your barrel time to cool down between shots and keep it clean, I would hope to double that.
Overheating barrel = amplify effects of wear.
I would expect much more out of a .308 if cleaned and cooled properly.
+1 as this is what I choose. I'm hard on my gear and rust is a problem cause I'm lazy, so I went 700 XCR in .270 win myself. Leupold scoped are great, but I went with the Burris Fullfield 2 with ballistic plax reticle. Makes ranging shots super easy.
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- Location
- Saskatchewan
I'm curious about your preference for a "tactical" rifle if your stated goal is hunting? Hunting rifles are built without those heavy long barrels and thick high comb stocks for a reason - good handling in hunting situations. Tactical style rifles excel at precision shooting at long range, but are not quite as versatile for offhand, quick shooting. They also tend to be a bit more inconvenient to carry. Many "internet hunters" place far too much emphasis on group size and long range accuracy. A rifles' balance and handling in real hunting situations is more important IMHO.
I've kept a journal of over a hundred head of big game that I've killed in all kinds of terrain, and average range was under 100 yards. Many, many shots were from offhand or less than perfect rests. Marksmanship is what allows you to place a bullet accurately under varying conditions. That skill is developed through practise. Marksmanship trumps rifle precision nearly every time when you are hunting. I'd suggest you re-read Boomer's advice. Lots of practical wisdom there.
I've kept a journal of over a hundred head of big game that I've killed in all kinds of terrain, and average range was under 100 yards. Many, many shots were from offhand or less than perfect rests. Marksmanship is what allows you to place a bullet accurately under varying conditions. That skill is developed through practise. Marksmanship trumps rifle precision nearly every time when you are hunting. I'd suggest you re-read Boomer's advice. Lots of practical wisdom there.
To LongWalker,
good question actually, some of my original ideas have changed since I started looking into this hunting thing. This will officially be my first hobby, I want to purchase a rifle that is usable outside of hunting. I've always been keen on precision, and that is amplified by rifles. From what I know of myself, I'm good at it too, and what I don't know, I pick up really fast.
For example, the Lee-Enfield No.7 (.22) we fired in air cadets. I had never fired a rifle outside of my air rifle, (sub 500 fps), and never used that particulare style of sights, but on my training run, with all the safety checks and teaching and stuff, I shot a 98 of 100 possible. 10 targets, 2 shots to a target.
I feel like I should be purchasing a rifle that will allow me the comfort of knowing that any error in shot out to whatever range I'm shooting at, is me, and not the rifle.
I should add, i also liked the length of pull on the one tactical rifle i've held, compared to a hunting rifle.
I plan on target shooting a fair amount, so will sacrifice a light rifle, in favor of a heavier rifle that I can use more.
Do I dream too big? or funny? I know most people will buy two rifles, one for target, the other for hunting, but I would feel more comfortable hunting with a rifle that I know and have shot a fair amount.
good question actually, some of my original ideas have changed since I started looking into this hunting thing. This will officially be my first hobby, I want to purchase a rifle that is usable outside of hunting. I've always been keen on precision, and that is amplified by rifles
. From what I know of myself, I'm good at it too, and what I don't know, I pick up really fast.For example, the Lee-Enfield No.7 (.22) we fired in air cadets. I had never fired a rifle outside of my air rifle, (sub 500 fps), and never used that particulare style of sights, but on my training run, with all the safety checks and teaching and stuff, I shot a 98 of 100 possible. 10 targets, 2 shots to a target.
I feel like I should be purchasing a rifle that will allow me the comfort of knowing that any error in shot out to whatever range I'm shooting at, is me, and not the rifle.
I should add, i also liked the length of pull on the one tactical rifle i've held, compared to a hunting rifle.
I plan on target shooting a fair amount, so will sacrifice a light rifle, in favor of a heavier rifle that I can use more.
Do I dream too big? or funny? I know most people will buy two rifles, one for target, the other for hunting, but I would feel more comfortable hunting with a rifle that I know and have shot a fair amount.
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- Location
- Saskatchewan
Fair enough. Looks like you've thought that through. I'm a hunter who likes to target shoot, but I find that hunting rifles are plenty precise enough for me to practise precision shooting from field positions. I just don't think that 1/2" better groups shot off a bench rest makes any practical difference in the bush. So my perspective is different, but yours is valid.
One caution - I have mentored a couple or apprentice big game hunters who equipped their rifles with a high powered scope and who then could not shoot quickly and effectively because they did not practise quick shooting from practical field positions, and some who missed close and quick shots because they made the mistake of leaving a variable powered scope set too high. I suggest that any scope you choose for big game hunting have no more than 4x at the low end. Always hunt with your scope on low power, you can nearly always turn it up if you feel a need for more magnification for a far shot.
One caution - I have mentored a couple or apprentice big game hunters who equipped their rifles with a high powered scope and who then could not shoot quickly and effectively because they did not practise quick shooting from practical field positions, and some who missed close and quick shots because they made the mistake of leaving a variable powered scope set too high. I suggest that any scope you choose for big game hunting have no more than 4x at the low end. Always hunt with your scope on low power, you can nearly always turn it up if you feel a need for more magnification for a far shot.
