Garand perfection
- Thread starter The Lorax
- Start date
Architect_SA
Member
- Location
- Hamilton, Ontario
My Garand likes American Eagle, which comes in 150 gr. It gives me the least problems when firing. However I still recommend you get an adjustable gas plug, so no matter what kind of ammo you're firing, it won't wear down your rifle as quickly.
My brother bought be a huge load of Russian surplus Barnaul ammo because it was cheap, but it's lacquered. That tiny microscopic glossy layer results in a really tight en bloc clip. This gives me issues when trying to slide the bolt forward. Also the flashes on it are insane, either because it's overcharged or it lacks the flash suppressant chemicals.
This ammo really turns heads at the range. It knocks dust off the roof.
So far those are the only two ammo's I've tried on my Garand, so unfortunately I don't have much experience with others. But American Eagle is what I'd recommend, because it's actually made of proper brass, and 150 gr. won't kill your rifle.
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Well, mine arrived, and I could not be happier. I wanted a shooter, not a collector piece, so I don't care about the 1/2inch etc. I also think the price is great for what you get.
I wanted a 7.62 rifle, since most of my other rifles are in that calibre. To get one made would cost as much or more. I would need a rifle to start with (+/- $800), a new barrel (at least $350, much more for a Kreiger or other custom maker), plus the import and foreign exchange for the barrel, plus the cost of smithing etc etc. Mine was $1498 to my door, all in, and no waiting, import paperwork etc, and the rifle is "like new".
My observations;
It is very nicely refurbed. The parkerising is a very nice dark grey, and 98% plus. The wood is new.
Canada Post (Grrrr!) still managed to ding the stock despite all the bubble wrap and newspapers (something sharp punctured the box). I have steamed out most of the ding, and I will sand out the rest (the fibres are cut at the edges). The stock is birch or something light that has been stained. Since I will need to touch up the dinged area, and the stain is a bit blotchy, I may redo the whole stock.
The metal is excellent, like new, or new-old stock, except for a couple of small or unimportant parts. The buttplate and one of the stock bands has obviously been re-used. The rust has been cleaned out, and re-parked, but you can see the remains of the pits and the scratches on the buttplate from use on the drill square. Brownells has replacement buttplates, so I may get one, and if I see a stock band in better shape, I may get one as well, but I'm in no hurry.
The only bad thing so far is that the gas screw seems frozen, and I don't have a proper combo tool. I am waiting to trip the gas sysytem, because I don't want to damage the screw with the wrong tool. (It came with a sling and one clip, but no butt-trap cleaning kit, which I need to get).
Getting a cleaning kit and more clips and re-finishing the stock will be my project for the next week or so, and I am looking ofrward to shooting it soon.
I wanted a 7.62 rifle, since most of my other rifles are in that calibre. To get one made would cost as much or more. I would need a rifle to start with (+/- $800), a new barrel (at least $350, much more for a Kreiger or other custom maker), plus the import and foreign exchange for the barrel, plus the cost of smithing etc etc. Mine was $1498 to my door, all in, and no waiting, import paperwork etc, and the rifle is "like new".
My observations;
It is very nicely refurbed. The parkerising is a very nice dark grey, and 98% plus. The wood is new.
Canada Post (Grrrr!) still managed to ding the stock despite all the bubble wrap and newspapers (something sharp punctured the box). I have steamed out most of the ding, and I will sand out the rest (the fibres are cut at the edges). The stock is birch or something light that has been stained. Since I will need to touch up the dinged area, and the stain is a bit blotchy, I may redo the whole stock.
The metal is excellent, like new, or new-old stock, except for a couple of small or unimportant parts. The buttplate and one of the stock bands has obviously been re-used. The rust has been cleaned out, and re-parked, but you can see the remains of the pits and the scratches on the buttplate from use on the drill square. Brownells has replacement buttplates, so I may get one, and if I see a stock band in better shape, I may get one as well, but I'm in no hurry.
The only bad thing so far is that the gas screw seems frozen, and I don't have a proper combo tool. I am waiting to trip the gas sysytem, because I don't want to damage the screw with the wrong tool. (It came with a sling and one clip, but no butt-trap cleaning kit, which I need to get).
Getting a cleaning kit and more clips and re-finishing the stock will be my project for the next week or so, and I am looking ofrward to shooting it soon.
A common issue on the other m1 boards. Many guys buy or make shell deflectors:
http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?chrProductSKU=282500&chrSuperSKU=&MC=
I'm sure a decent gunsmith could either tweak the extractor, or fab/modify a deflector to do the trick.
Paulz:
The gas cylinder lock screw will appear 'frozen' in place because of powder/cabon/soot buildup in this area from normal firing. The tool you need to get is shaped like a figure 8. It fits over the gas cylinder and barrel so that you can hold them imobile (not tweaking the gas cylinder) while you remove the the lock screw. Even with the proper tool to grip the lock screw (and the figure 8 tool), they are sometimes a hassle to remove. Try tipping the barrel foreward or vertical and squirting in some penetrating oil into the rear portion of the gas cylinder along the front of the oprod, or better yet field strip and squirt into the rear of the gas cylinder itself. I find that 'Kroil' works well if left to set overnight. If you don't have the proper military tool for removing the lock screw and use a regular screwdiver or something similar, you can bugger up the lock screw. That being said, if you have an "X" shaped slot in the lock crew, (not a single slot), use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet for removing the lock screw. Works slick.
One other thing: When you get the lock screw off, re-assemble using an anti sieze compound, the silver stuff sold in automotive shops. It will come off easier the next time.
The gas cylinder lock screw will appear 'frozen' in place because of powder/cabon/soot buildup in this area from normal firing. The tool you need to get is shaped like a figure 8. It fits over the gas cylinder and barrel so that you can hold them imobile (not tweaking the gas cylinder) while you remove the the lock screw. Even with the proper tool to grip the lock screw (and the figure 8 tool), they are sometimes a hassle to remove. Try tipping the barrel foreward or vertical and squirting in some penetrating oil into the rear portion of the gas cylinder along the front of the oprod, or better yet field strip and squirt into the rear of the gas cylinder itself. I find that 'Kroil' works well if left to set overnight. If you don't have the proper military tool for removing the lock screw and use a regular screwdiver or something similar, you can bugger up the lock screw. That being said, if you have an "X" shaped slot in the lock crew, (not a single slot), use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet for removing the lock screw. Works slick.
One other thing: When you get the lock screw off, re-assemble using an anti sieze compound, the silver stuff sold in automotive shops. It will come off easier the next time.
mrd49, thanks for that.
I figured the screw is "frozen" as you say, because of buildup. Since it is a refurb, I suspect it is dried cosmolene or parking chemical residue rather than carbon. I don't have the proper tools, which is why I am leaving it alone until I do. I tried the big screw driver, and several other combo tools (FN FAL, Mosin-Nagant), but none fit well enough and I don't want to bugger it up. I have seen too many screws and such ruined by impatience.
I have an M-14 gas cylinder tool,( the figure 8 thing) but it is not the same size, so that didn't work.
I will try the penetrating oil and 1/4 inch drive (it has the "x" slot), but if it does not move easilly I will wait until I have the proper tools.
I have not found a Canadian source for the combo tool or the gas cylinder holder thingy, but Brownells has both. I don't mind waiting a week or so, especially since the road to my range is still snow and mud.
Thanks again for your advice.
I figured the screw is "frozen" as you say, because of buildup. Since it is a refurb, I suspect it is dried cosmolene or parking chemical residue rather than carbon. I don't have the proper tools, which is why I am leaving it alone until I do. I tried the big screw driver, and several other combo tools (FN FAL, Mosin-Nagant), but none fit well enough and I don't want to bugger it up. I have seen too many screws and such ruined by impatience.
I have an M-14 gas cylinder tool,( the figure 8 thing) but it is not the same size, so that didn't work.
I will try the penetrating oil and 1/4 inch drive (it has the "x" slot), but if it does not move easilly I will wait until I have the proper tools.
I have not found a Canadian source for the combo tool or the gas cylinder holder thingy, but Brownells has both. I don't mind waiting a week or so, especially since the road to my range is still snow and mud.
Thanks again for your advice.
[ If you don't have the proper military tool for removing the lock screw and use a regular screwdiver or something similar, you can bugger up the lock screw. That being said, if you have an "X" shaped slot in the lock crew, (not a single slot), use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet for removing the lock screw. Works slick.
One other thing: When you get the lock screw off, re-assemble using an anti sieze compound, the silver stuff sold in automotive shops. It will come off easier the next time.[/QUOTE]
Actually, a 1/4 inch breaker bar is more effective than a ratchet, as it allows you to get up close to your lock screw and there are no clearance issues with the barrel.
One other thing: When you get the lock screw off, re-assemble using an anti sieze compound, the silver stuff sold in automotive shops. It will come off easier the next time.[/QUOTE]
Actually, a 1/4 inch breaker bar is more effective than a ratchet, as it allows you to get up close to your lock screw and there are no clearance issues with the barrel.
I decided to give the penetrating oil and 1/4' drive one shot. If it didn't move fairly easily I was going to wait for a gas cylinder wrench and proper combo tool to arrive.
Very pleased to say it worked like a charm. (I just used the ratchet, on the grounds that if a rachet didn't move it I didn't want to mess with a breaker bar without a gas cylinder wrench.)
It looks like it was just seized from age and perhaps a bit of petrefied cosmoline. The gas cylinder needed a bit of "persuasion" as well (hardened cosmoline on the splines).
So now it is completely apart for a good clean. thanks again to mrd49 for the advice
Very pleased to say it worked like a charm. (I just used the ratchet, on the grounds that if a rachet didn't move it I didn't want to mess with a breaker bar without a gas cylinder wrench.)
It looks like it was just seized from age and perhaps a bit of petrefied cosmoline. The gas cylinder needed a bit of "persuasion" as well (hardened cosmoline on the splines).
So now it is completely apart for a good clean. thanks again to mrd49 for the advice
