My new Ross, got a question? and found surplus .303

KyleSchenk

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Ive always wanted a Ross and came across this one. First one ive have seen that had a bore in great shape. Not too crazy about the wood thats on it though. Anyone know how to tighten up the rear sight?
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Now I hoping someone can tell me if the bolt is put together properly. When you go to put it back in the action its a bit of a trick to do. The head wants to snap into the locked position. Is this right? Is the pin on the side, the pin someones put it to keep it assembled right:confused: Any help would be great.
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When the bolt closes the head rotates clockwise if you looking at the chamber.

The other week I stop into the local store and what do they have? Surplus .303 brit for a decent price. $14 for 32rounds. Ok Ill take all ya got. Then I see 15round boxes of soft point for $6. Not a bad day :D
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Thanks
 
Yes, your Ross Mk III action has a pinned bolt. It should be virtually impossible to put it in the rifle wrong.
The bolt is in very nice shape with the case hardened finish looking like new. Does this rifle have a serial number on the left of the barrel/action? Or is it registered using a black sticker and FIN number? (don't say what the numbers are)

Looks like a home made walnut target stock. Barrel appears shortened as many of them are.
 
Your bolt exhibits what can be called normal behavior for a bolt of this type.
If the chamber and bore are good, you may have a very good shooting rifle in your hands; original M-1910 Ross barrels had a heavier diameter for their length. Once shortened they are very stiff, which usually leads to good groupings with many different loads.
The "schnabel ersatz" fore end is... well... I have seen better ones ;) but if that stock gives you a good cheekweld I don't see why you shouldn't get great shots at the range with it.
And shooting with a Ross, that's class, man, that's class... :D
 
Thanks guys. Its got the sticker for a serial number. I agree the nice colour case hardening on the bolt is very nice. Going to have to see how she shoots sometime this week.
 
Thanks guys. Its got the sticker for a serial number. I agree the nice colour case hardening on the bolt is very nice. Going to have to see how she shoots sometime this week.

Kyle- do us a favour. If you've never fired a Ross before...as you push the bolt ahead, the gas relief hole should be facing up, there should be the width of your thumb between the bolt shroud and the bolt head, and you should watch the bolt rotating into lockup in the last bit of travel. You can also use a cleaning rod or similar to push down into the barrel muzzle, back against the bolt to ensure it's locked.
Then, have fun. :)

I find reloading them quite awkward, but they cycle smooth as butter.

Oh yeah...consider that ammunition corrosive, which means clean the barrel with Windex or similar shortly after firing, and once home a kettle of boiling water down the bore from the breech wouldn't be amiss.
 
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Kyle- do us a favour. If you've never fired a Ross before...as you push the bolt ahead, the gas relief hole should be facing up, there should be the width of your thumb between the bolt shroud and the bolt head, and you should watch the bolt rotating into lockup in the last bit of travel. You can also use a cleaning rod or similar to push down into the barrel muzzle, back against the bolt to ensure it's locked.
Then, have fun. :)

I find reloading them quite awkward, but they cycle smooth as butter.

Oh yeah...consider that ammunition corrosive, which means clean the barrel with Windex or similar shortly after firing, and once home a kettle of boiling water down the bore from the breech wouldn't be amiss.

Thanks cantom, I tried the cleaning rod thing already. Just wanted some more oppinions on the bolt.Don't feel like having it pass throught my shoulder.

I figured all the mill surp ammo would be corrosive. Not a big deal for me.
 
Enjoy, and be afraid, as you'll likely love the strait pull.... It's addictive to say the least.

You asked about tightening up the rear sight? What bit needs to be tightened? The rear sight bridge is held on by four screws. The spring for the rear sight has one screw, the rear sight pivots on a pin, the vertical worm screw has at least one screw holding it in place, and the windage tends to be however it is at the moment. Usually it's either seized or loose.
 
Thanks cantom, I tried the cleaning rod thing already. Just wanted some more oppinions on the bolt.Don't feel like having it pass throught my shoulder.

Don't worry, you won't feel a thing. If it comes out, it will go right through your right eye socket.:D

Just kidding.;)
 
Enjoy, and be afraid, as you'll likely love the strait pull.... It's addictive to say the least.

You asked about tightening up the rear sight? What bit needs to be tightened? The rear sight bridge is held on by four screws. The spring for the rear sight has one screw, the rear sight pivots on a pin, the vertical worm screw has at least one screw holding it in place, and the windage tends to be however it is at the moment. Usually it's either seized or loose.

The plate with the peep hole in it. The windage drum just spins and spins. Im thinking I may try and place some shim stock between the plate and the sight assembly.
 
Hmmm. That's the tough one. Usually it's just the way it is. I understand you can replace the drum and plate, but I've never figured it out and never really had to. It might just work to get a sportered ross with shot out barrel as a parts gun for all your ross parts needs.
 
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