Motor Oil for Small Arms Lubricant

MPJUNKIE40 said:
I'm surprised no one mentioned "Beaver Fat" and "KY"....with the amount of high quality lubricants on the market, running from just $2.00 to $10.00, the only reason I could see for slapping on the motor oil would have to be sheer necessity. If 10/30 worked better than commercial products, I would assume it would be standard with most military and police units around the world. Let the conspiracy theories begin....
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Go back and read my first post in this thread. Where do you think "high tech" PETROLEUM based lubricants for firearms, bikes, chainsaws, dildos or any other mechanical device are made? Do you believe they are manufactured in their own special refineries or laboratories? Its marketing. Add the word "tactical" "MIL SPEC" or "as used by X dept/agency/unit" and you can sell water for ten times the going rate.

Oil drips, burns, and blows off of internal parts. Grease does not. I don't know, it sells itself. Throw in a shamwow and I'm sold.

TDC
 
However there are a wide range of specialized lubricants, just like there are fuels, weapons, and medicines, all built for different missions. I am sure it works, I am also sure a space age lubricant for a special machining process or something will work better than grease or X. Synthetic motor oils for example over regular oils....
 
One of the problems with PMCO is that it "settles" the additive package to the bottom... Yep, it'll run off, and there goes your rust protection.


I'd actually like to see a VOA (virgin oil analysis) done on gun lubes, to see what actually makes up the add-pack.
 
This is a hilarious thread! As if anyone could tell the difference what bloody oil anyone uses! Ever have a bad oil for your pistol? You guys crack me up!
 
Well, when it gets to -30 or more, some oils and greases do get pretty stiff. Aside from that, I have noticed that some oils seem to either get blown out or run off of my pistol pretty quick, say after 150 rounds. Not enough to make the gun malfunction, so far anyway, but enough to where the action starts to feel a bit sry and gritty. I got some synthetic grease, and it seems to stay in place much better. I use G96 for almost everything though, and it seems to work very well.
 
G-96, finally

xxclaro said:
Well, when it gets to -30 or more, some oils and greases do get pretty stiff. Aside from that, I have noticed that some oils seem to either get blown out or run off of my pistol pretty quick, say after 150 rounds. Not enough to make the gun malfunction, so far anyway, but enough to where the action starts to feel a bit sry and gritty. I got some synthetic grease, and it seems to stay in place much better. I use G96 for almost everything though, and it seems to work very well.
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Ahhh, FINALLY someone brought up G-96. IMHO the miracle do all lube that has been around for decades. Doesn't bugger up any wood finishes, melt plastic grips or parts, good rust prevention. Good bore protection.
Also miraculous for when those semiauto shotguns and ,22's suddenly reach that "I have had enough gunk" stage and start hicupping. One good blast in the action and the day can be completed. I have a can that is a permanent resident in my range bag. I bet more gets used by friends at the range than I use it. As might be obvious, I love it.
Cheers!
 
Any oil, even cooking oil, is better than no oil.

I use the ubiquitous spray oils (G96) found in guns stores when at the range, for quick lube shots.

At home, have a mix of 1 part STP to 3 parts 10w30 synthetic motor oil.
 
easyrider604 said:
Any oil, even cooking oil, is better than no oil.

I use the ubiquitous spray oils (G96) found in guns stores when at the range, for quick lube shots.

At home, have a mix of 1 part STP to 3 parts 10w30 synthetic motor oil.
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cooking oil gets too thick and become gummy
 
Motor oil has way more in it than just oil. The chemicals, additives and detergents are not good for guns and are not intended for them. Lucas makes a very nice gun oil, not in a different refinery but on a different production line with no motor oil additives.

Motor oil is for motors, gun oil is for guns. Spend thousands on a gun and cheap out on the oil, boggles the mind!

Scott
 
I love reading threads when, "in pops" the a**hole- know-it-all, with all the answers on how... "things that are different are "bad"..... (I'm going to play that guy now.)

Engine oil contains HC (hydrocarbon). If you store your firearms in a cool room, or area where there is high humidity or condensation, H2O will combine with the HC, which equalls Hydrochloric Acid. Gun oils have a completely different design and purpose than engine oil.
You may say "what happens inside an engine with "engine-oil". Well, this is why ALL engine oil companies recommend not idleing your engine, where the engine temperature is too low to burn off any condensation. Also, oil change intervals are recommended well before the actual life-span of the oil is due. In heavy truck applications, ALL manufactures state that the engine, if needed to idle, be set on high idle above 1000 rpm. This ensures that the engine temp is high enough to deplete any condensation, and eliminate the possibility of Hydrochloric acid forming.
 
josh1976 said:
I love reading threads when, "in pops" the a**hole- know-it-all, with all the answers on how... "things that are different are "bad"..... (I'm going to play that guy now.)

Engine oil contains HC (hydrocarbon). If you store your firearms in a cool room, or area where there is high humidity or condensation, H2O will combine with the HC, which equalls Hydrochloric Acid. Gun oils have a completely different design and purpose than engine oil.
You may say "what happens inside an engine with "engine-oil". Well, this is why ALL engine oil companies recommend not idleing your engine, where the engine temperature is too low to burn off any condensation. Also, oil change intervals are recommended well before the actual life-span of the oil is due. In heavy truck applications, ALL manufactures state that the engine, if needed to idle, be set on high idle above 1000 rpm. This ensures that the engine temp is high enough to deplete any condensation, and eliminate the possibility of Hydrochloric acid forming.
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Yep and the above post is a prime example.

Ummmm, What do you think ALL oils are made of? Do you know what a hydrocarbon really is? Do you realize that (almost) everything that burns has carbon in it? And everything that burns has hydrogen in it, and every oil has hydrogen in it?

All oils/fats have carbon except silicone oils, which substitute a silicon atom for the carbon atoms, and even then there are still some carbon atoms attached to it.

Where do you think the water and acid come from???? Hint =>, maybe from the FUEL!!! What do you get when you burn a hydrocarbon? Ummm, CO2 and WATER VAPOUR (the hydrogen atoms from the hydrocarbon chain have to go, be turned into something)

As for the acids? To get hydrochloric acid you need a CHLORINE source, typically from chloride, ie, various salts. In an engine, it is primarily sulphuric acid, from SULPHUR in the fuel. So do you run your gun on high sulphur gas or diesel?

:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes: :confused:

Back on topic,

As for oils on guns, there are no parts on a gun where lubrication is critical. Yes there are high loading on some parts, but not when the parts are sliding. It is not like an engine that has bearings that are continuously stressed and sliding pistons that run through maybe 150,000 cycles PER HOUR. More wear than the majority of guns will get in several lifetimes.

So basically use whatever works. I use synthetic engine oil.
 
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I bought a S&W M&P several years ago, paid $650 for it, got a bottle of Break Free CLP as well, about $15. Gun has fired $4000 worth of ammo since then, still working fine and there is still lots of CLP left.;)
 
"I love reading threads when, "in pops" the a**hole- know-it-all, with all the answers on how... "things that are different are "bad"..... (I'm going to play that guy now.)"

Wow SANDROAD!!! you play the above described role WAY better than me!!!
 
jsdboy said:
Ahhh, FINALLY someone brought up G-96. IMHO the miracle do all lube that has been around for decades. Doesn't bugger up any wood finishes, melt plastic grips or parts, good rust prevention. Good bore protection.Also miraculous for when those semiauto shotguns and ,22's suddenly reach that "I have had enough gunk" stage and start hicupping. One good blast in the action and the day can be completed. I have a can that is a permanent resident in my range bag. I bet more gets used by friends at the range than I use it. As might be obvious, I love it.
Cheers!
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IMHO too. On a side note - I wish they made G96 and gun powder air fresheners. God I love that smell.

7m7
 
josh1976 said:
"I love reading threads when, "in pops" the a**hole- know-it-all, with all the answers on how... "things that are different are "bad"..... (I'm going to play that guy now.)"

Wow SANDROAD!!! you play the above described role WAY better than me!!!
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But you were still wrong, :rolleyes: and haven't addressed any of my questions to you. So I presume you don't have the faintest clue what you are talking about.

The least you could post correct information. But then again, this is the internet and being correct doesn't matter, does it?


Gun oils don't have a "completely different design" and for the most part, the additives are similar (anitcorrosion, acid neutralizers, creep agents, and maybe even zinc compounds for extreme pressure lubrication). However most often the gun oils don't have nearly as many additives. There is nothing magic about oil or oil additives, yet out of ignorance and misinformation, the old wives tales never die.
 
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