hello all I have a traditions deer hunter in .50 cal and it is a flintlock and it is very weather sensitive, I was wondering if anyone knew of a kit you can get for this rifle to change it to a 209 percussion cap ignition thanks.
can my flintlock become a percuccion cap
- Thread starter fisherman183
- Start date
converting is possible, thousands upon thousands of flint guns were converted by as many gunsmiths during the transition era. however, might be cheaper just to sell it and buy a percussion model, or offer a trade on the EE.
Gallen270....your comments are "right on". I agree. Many thousands, if not millions, of flinters were converted to caplock in the 1800's. The technology to do so in this age has mostly been lost. We now spend many $$$$ converting those back to flint for historic reasons (collectors). I think, with prices as they are today a new caplock would be the answer.
thanks for letting me know guys I would love to but my they girlfriend now wife bought me this gun for my birthday and she doesnt want me to trade it or sell it so if anybody has a link as to were i can find the conversion kit or a how to guide that would be great. thanks
Just remember it will have to be registered if the conversion is permanent. Or within the time frame allowed from the CFC. But you might be able to keep both option open?
This is what I found from a quick look see on the internet.
The vent hole in the barrel of a flintlock has to be replaced with fixture that holds the nipple (I believe it's called a balister), plus the flintlock side plate has to be exchanged for a percussion side plate. When that happens, everything has to line up right- i.e., the balister has to be positioned just right with the side plate so that the hammer hits the nipple. If that happens as a matter of course, all the better. If they don't line up it will mean either plugging the vent hole and redrilling for a balister or moving and re-inletting the side plate into the stock. If you start moving the side plate around, that means you also have to make sure that trigger engagement is still right.
Looking at the Traditions replacement locks at the L&R Lock (w ww.lr-rpl.com/rpllg.htm), they say that the flint and percussion are interchangeable. That sounds like good news for you. I'd contact them to see whether simply swapping the flint barrel for a percussion barrel made more sense than trying to find and fit a new balister.
Have to go but I will log on in a few.
This is what I found from a quick look see on the internet.
The vent hole in the barrel of a flintlock has to be replaced with fixture that holds the nipple (I believe it's called a balister), plus the flintlock side plate has to be exchanged for a percussion side plate. When that happens, everything has to line up right- i.e., the balister has to be positioned just right with the side plate so that the hammer hits the nipple. If that happens as a matter of course, all the better. If they don't line up it will mean either plugging the vent hole and redrilling for a balister or moving and re-inletting the side plate into the stock. If you start moving the side plate around, that means you also have to make sure that trigger engagement is still right.
Looking at the Traditions replacement locks at the L&R Lock (w ww.lr-rpl.com/rpllg.htm), they say that the flint and percussion are interchangeable. That sounds like good news for you. I'd contact them to see whether simply swapping the flint barrel for a percussion barrel made more sense than trying to find and fit a new balister.
Have to go but I will log on in a few.
Have a look at photo 2 and 3 on my posting of "my newest project". You would be doing the reverse of what I did. The great gaping hole in the breach will be much smaller in your gun and you would screw a "drum" into it. The nipple is threaded into the drum and its thread is usually 1/4x28 tpi. The lock will have a notch in it to fit around the drum and should be a close fit to support the drum. My locks had great gaping notches and I am guessing the percussion conversion used a screw in bolster somewhat like is found on TC and Lyman rifles (which are cast as part of the breach plug).
If there is a drop in kit for your gun, everything should fit and if no kit is available, it is not particularly difficult to file out a new sideplate out of mild steel, drill and tap it for the internal screws and swap the internal parts into the new plate. Then put a percussion hammer on the outside.
I am not familiar with Traditions guns and your one worry is if the gun is spanish and has a bushing that screws almost all the way through the barrel both sides. The vent liner screws into that. If that is the case, you would be better off to see if a TC barrel and lock will drop into your stock.
cheers mooncoon
If there is a drop in kit for your gun, everything should fit and if no kit is available, it is not particularly difficult to file out a new sideplate out of mild steel, drill and tap it for the internal screws and swap the internal parts into the new plate. Then put a percussion hammer on the outside.
I am not familiar with Traditions guns and your one worry is if the gun is spanish and has a bushing that screws almost all the way through the barrel both sides. The vent liner screws into that. If that is the case, you would be better off to see if a TC barrel and lock will drop into your stock.
cheers mooncoon
The Traditions guns are fitted with a non-standard type drum system that screws into the off side of the barrel. In other words, its a pain in the behind to change, not impossible, but also not straight forward. I don't think a 'kit' exsists.
Imagine the picture of a nipple drum as above, but with a long threaded portion that goes all the way through the breech and screws into the far (in)side of the barrel.
Imagine the picture of a nipple drum as above, but with a long threaded portion that goes all the way through the breech and screws into the far (in)side of the barrel.
That describes the spanish system I was concerned about. It is also probably the reason for the problems with the flintlock ignition. In the flintlock version, the long threaded piece is a bushing and the vent liner screws into that bushing. In both flint and percussion you end up with an unusually long flash channel with an extra 90 bend and a relatively small hole into the main powder charge.
What you might want to consider is replacing the barrel with one with a 5/16" vent bushing that screws only into the side of the barrel closest to the lock. Given that your wife gave you the gun, maybe you should think more in terms of keeping it for special occasions and buying a second gun so that you don't have to worry about denting and scratching the Traditions. (cough cough)
cheers mooncoon
I'd do'er up I've converted a number of my own from percusion back to flint, and flint to percusion ...that was 12 years ago, if a 16 year old could do it you can too. I made my own bolsterdrum and taped and threded it for the percusion, and for the percusion conversion to flint I took out the bolsterdrum made a touchhole liner and fited the flintlock to it took a bit extra inletting but turned out just great. it can be done just be patient take your time.
there are two issues; the threaded portion of the drum is long and a fine thread and can be fairly difficult to remove. Even though this is a flintlock, it has the same thread configuration. The second point is that the drum exits into the barrel via a relatively small hole in the threaded portion and that tends to collect fouling and you get misfires after 10 or 15 shots
If you could figure out the exact depth of the threaded hole on the far side, you could fill that with a threaded plug then apply a conventional drum threaded only into the lock side. The problem is that method would probably involve leaving a screw driver slot in the plug to collect fouling.
cheers mooncoon
If you could figure out the exact depth of the threaded hole on the far side, you could fill that with a threaded plug then apply a conventional drum threaded only into the lock side. The problem is that method would probably involve leaving a screw driver slot in the plug to collect fouling.
cheers mooncoon
stevejones
Regular
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Weather Sensitive
Here's a thought. You mentioned it being "weather sensitive". Specifically what problems are you having? A cover (referred to as a cows knee) over the lock to keep out rain may help. I rub bees wax around the area of the pan were the frizzen meets to keep moisture out of my priming powder. Read some books or perhaps some of the members following this thread will have some comments.
Just remember that you will still have challenges with a percussion system! I also carry my gun with the lock tucked under my arm to try and help keep it dry.
Cheers. Steve.
Here's a thought. You mentioned it being "weather sensitive". Specifically what problems are you having? A cover (referred to as a cows knee) over the lock to keep out rain may help. I rub bees wax around the area of the pan were the frizzen meets to keep moisture out of my priming powder. Read some books or perhaps some of the members following this thread will have some comments.
Just remember that you will still have challenges with a percussion system! I also carry my gun with the lock tucked under my arm to try and help keep it dry.
Cheers. Steve.
This guy is a genius! KD
Given the complexity of the Traditions breech and ignition systems, doing a conventional flint-to percussion conversion is not a very practical undertaking, I believe. Why not contact Traditions directly and try to buy the matching barrel and percussion lock - they should be a drop-in fit. you cannot just change off the flint #### for a percussion hammer. That way you can get even more use out of your wife's gift.
problem of course if you do change it over. it goes from a "non firearm" and not needing to be registered, to being a Firearm and having to be registered. ie, at hunt camp going to need to have a trigger lock, your PAL, and your Cert on you or your gun gets confiscated if a CO or Police officer ask to see any and you have none.
