VZ58 scout mount and burris fastfire *pics P.3*

alexD92

alexD92

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Hi guys,
I am currently thinking of buying a Burris fastfire and mounting it to a scout mount I have for my VZ, do any of you have experience with this type or setup? Is the fastfire going to hold zero with all the beating of a 7.62x39?

Cheers,
Alex

PS.
I'm also looking for a load bearing system, chest rig, anything. Any recommendation on that side too?
 
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I have the scout mount and a cheap 50 dollar tasco that holds zero so u shouldn't have issues with the burris. Prob with the scout mount is cleaning the gun. I have modded the front hand guard to be able to remove it without taking apart the scout mount. Took about an hour to do and now is a breeze to clean. No problems holding zero. Pm me if you want more details. I can send you picks and instuctions if you need. All you need is a dremel and some time.
Mark
 
mlehtovaara said:
I have the scout mount and a cheap 50 dollar tasco that holds zero so u shouldn't have issues with the burris. Prob with the scout mount is cleaning the gun. I have modded the front hand guard to be able to remove it without taking apart the scout mount. Took about an hour to do and now is a breeze to clean. No problems holding zero. Pm me if you want more details. I can send you picks and instuctions if you need. All you need is a dremel and some time.
Mark
Click to expand...

I was actually thinking on cutting the scout mount, since the Burris FastFire is so small it won't need all the rail.
 
alexD92 said:
I was actually thinking on cutting the scout mount, since the Burris FastFire is so small it won't need all the rail.
Click to expand...

Yeah but what if you ever wanted to get a different scope. I plan on gettin an aimpoint micro when I can afford it. Also I found I had to mount my scope forward enough for the extra piece of rail to protect the scope from the flying brass. It only took 3 shots to crack the glass on the first one I got, but Canadian tire was quick to exchange it after some #####in. most gun stores won't be so easy. The ejection on the CZ is very agressive and can easily break your scope glass. The mod I did has been posted before and is really easy to do. Nobody will even notice. It is just easier and cheaper than having to possibly buy a new scout mount or a new scope. PM me your email Ill send some pics if you want to see what I'm talkin about.
 
I had a fastfire and it was AWESOME.

I would fully expect it would surive up there - are long as you don't drop it on it's head.

It's designed to reciprocate on the slide of a pistol - I doubt ANY amount of abuse on the scout mount would come close to that.
 
taking a piece of brass off of the glass will break it after a couple hits. like I said the ejection of the CZ is very agressive spinning casings forward in the direction of your scope very quickly. I am just saying you give yourself more options and a more secure setup by modding the handguard rather than the rail itself. The handguard mod is unnoticeable and you will not need to go out an buy a different mount if you ever want something different. I thought about this as I wouldnt mind being able to put an actual scope on my gun to shoot some coyotes every once in awhile. I have heard that the pistol scopes work better for the eye relief and then just fab up a shell deflector.
 
FastFires work fine on VZ, whether on a handguard rail or on the Scout Scopes mount. I've never seen empties spin forward in a manner that would cause them to hit a forward mounted optic.

Cutting the Scout Scopes rail allows you to remove the handguard for cleaning without having to touch the optic.

I prefer the NEA handguard rail over the Scout Scopes mount as it allows you to leave your iron sights in place.

This pic shows a FastFire on an Infratek rail and an Aimpoint Comp M2 on the NEA rail. You can see how much lower the NEA rail is.

IMG_0678Medium.jpg
 
Do you guys even read the previous posts. I know that cutting the rail makes taking the front handguard off easier but it is very easy to mod the handguard and get the same results, and it is unoticeable to the average person. I just wouldn't want to cut a 120 dollar rail and then decide you want to mount a different scope. Keep your options open thats all I'm saying. And on the fastfire it would not seem possible for the glass to be hit by the brass but any tubular style red dot can have this happen as the rear glass is right there. I mounted mine directly in line with the rail as far back as I could and after 3 shots the glass was cracked. I will post some pics.
 
Of course I read the posts. If the guy want to cut his rail, that's up to him. His desired sights are small enough to fit on a cut rail, so his "options" are perfectly open.

Your observations about brass hitting optics mounted on the scout base or a forward rail are entirely opposite to what I have seen with three or four mount setups on a half dozen different rifles.
 
I would have bought the NEA mount but I already have a scout mount thats been laying around doing nothing. Anyways, I've got a fastfire coming my way. :p I'll try it out, and see what happens.

Thanks for all the replies.

PS.
Stevo I remember you posted pics of rig you had going for the VZ, but i can't remember which thread in was in, could you post it again or give me the link.
 
Alex,
Regarding the FF and shortened Scout Mount. I've seen that setup go 3k in 4 days on an 858 with zero issues and the identical setup is on another shooting buddy's rifle. It works. The only downside is the optic height and lack of rear sight. Those aren't significant for range use.

My FF tends to be too bright. I'm looking for the right window tint to try and fool it.

I use an Original SOE AK/M4 Micro Rig to carry 4 mags and a FAK.

IMG_0234a.jpg
 
http://s801.photobucket.com/albums/yy291/mlehtovaara/?action=view&current=topview.jpg&newest=1

http://s801.photobucket.com/albums/yy291/mlehtovaara/?action=view&current=bottomview.jpg&newest=1

Just cut out the inside metal fron between the mounts including the lip on the plastic/wood and widen it a little until you can slide it far enough back to pry the front tangs up out of the front of the gas block.

http://s801.photobucket.com/albums/yy291/mlehtovaara/?action=view&current=front.jpg&newest=1

I also shortened the front tangs, and rounded out the edges so it could be easily removed.

http://s801.photobucket.com/albums/yy291/mlehtovaara/?action=view&current=scope.jpg&newest=1

I used a dremel with some cutting blades and a grinding stone as well. took about 1/2 hour. You can't even notice I did anything after some grey spray paint.
 
yes, modding the scout mount rail is an option but not advisable.

scout mounts are expensive and the original top HG are cheap and getting cheaper with the success of NEA mounts will results in lots of original top HG orphans .
 
mlehtovaara said:
Do you guys even read the previous posts. I know that cutting the rail makes taking the front handguard off easier but it is very easy to mod the handguard and get the same results, and it is unoticeable to the average person. I just wouldn't want to cut a 120 dollar rail and then decide you want to mount a different scope. Keep your options open thats all I'm saying. And on the fastfire it would not seem possible for the glass to be hit by the brass but any tubular style red dot can have this happen as the rear glass is right there. I mounted mine directly in line with the rail as far back as I could and after 3 shots the glass was cracked. I will post some pics.
Click to expand...

Why would you mount your red dot so far back? Second, if its not an Aimpoint is crap to begin with.

TDC
 
curtton said:
yes, modding the scout mount rail is an option but not advisable.

scout mounts are expensive and the original top HG are cheap and getting cheaper with the success of NEA mounts will results in lots of original top HG orphans .
Click to expand...

"Not advisable"? That's a personal opinion based on cost, not on any mechanical/operational reason.
 
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