AR lubrificant

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TDC seems alone on that one, so I'll jump in :nest:

I ran a 4 days course, 3500 rnds with an AR 11.5", minimum cleaning at night (barrel and chamber) and zero malfunction: I believe in grease !!

but hey, whatever works for you :jerkit:
 
If you are not running courses all day and firing thousands of rounds a day, CLP is fine. Even then, it is fine if you stop once in a while to add some more when it burns off/evaporates etc.

Yes, there are better, newer lubes out there, and lithium based grease works great, but if you like CLP and have lots of it, there is nothing wrong with it. Just make sure you use lots.

CLP is "good enough", your gun won't self destruct and (to quote Hungry), your #### won't fall off. If you want to spend more on fancy lubes, go ahead, but don't feel oblidged to.
 
I use grease on the buffer and spring, and the outside of the bolt carrier rails.
CLP or lubricating oil between the bolt and carrier and on the bolt.

I use grease on all my pistols -even the Glocks with no ill effect. Sig 'Specials' and M14? definately...

CLP is better than nothing....
 
TDC seems alone on that one, so I'll jump in :nest:

I ran a 4 days course, 3500 rnds with an AR 11.5", minimum cleaning at night (barrel and chamber) and zero malfunction: I believe in grease !!

but hey, whatever works for you :jerkit:


What they said, go with grease. I'm a cheap bastard so I just buy tubs of wheel bearing grease at Crappy Tire. I would never have thought an AR, especially a short one like Niko's, would have run like that unless I had seen it with my own eyes.
 
If you are not running courses all day and firing thousands of rounds a day, CLP is fine. Even then, it is fine if you stop once in a while to add some more when it burns off/evaporates etc.

Yes, there are better, newer lubes out there, and lithium based grease works great, but if you like CLP and have lots of it, there is nothing wrong with it. Just make sure you use lots.

CLP is "good enough", your gun won't self destruct and (to quote Hungry), your #### won't fall off. If you want to spend more on fancy lubes, go ahead, but don't feel oblidged to.

Why run a product that is just "good enough" or is "fine" when there are better products for less money??

TDC
 
Otis SFDL is what I use on my stuff and it works great. It doesn’t attract dust, dirt, or sand, since the suspension liquid quickly evaporates leaving the dry lube behind. Also the firearm doesn’t leak oil onto clothing, gear, gun cases, etc.
 
Vagisil ? K Y Jelly ? Smegma ?

Anything will work,but -

A long barrel AR will work fine with grease but a shorty gets much more unburned powder, carbon, gas etc. and grease quickly turns to dry crud.

Break Free clp in a shorty seems to be far more effective because it keeps the burnt garbage in suspension and blows it out the ejection port. You just have to keep goopin it up though.

Back in the 30 rd mag days I ran a 16" Colt AR without cleaning it for about 8000 to 10,000 rds by goopin it up with CLP as soon as the action started feeling gritty , never had a failure. :eek:
 
Holy s***!

I did not make this thread with the intention to make a s*** storm, but I guess its too hard for you guys to resist. I asked a simple enough question I think.

What's the closest thing I can get to the SIG arms cleaning kit grease. And if possible where I could get the real thing.

The grease is not too thick so the BCG and the bolt slide nicely, I add up a little oil in the inside of the BCG where the bolt sits and everything is happy.
 
Hi guys,
I've been running my AR with a little combo of grease and gun oil and its been shooting reliably for quite some time. I'm currently using grease from the SAN PE90 "classic green" cleaning kit but I'm running low.

Do you know what's the closest thing I can get to that grease? Where I can get it? Or if I can get more of that exact grease?

Thanks,
Alex

If its the same grease thats on the Sig black special then its Molybdenum Disulfide. Its also used on the LAV III 25mm chaingun aswell.
 
I use grease on the buffer and spring, and the outside of the bolt carrier rails.
CLP or lubricating oil between the bolt and carrier and on the bolt.

I use grease on all my pistols -even the Glocks with no ill effect. Sig 'Specials' and M14? definately...

CLP is better than nothing....

That's exactly what I do.

If its the same grease thats on the Sig black special then its Molybdenum Disulfide. Its also used on the LAV III 25mm chaingun aswell.

Is that the white stuff in the new cleaning kits or the black'ish stuff from the older ones that come in the black cylinders? I'm looking for the black stuff.
 
I use grease on the buffer and spring, and the outside of the bolt carrier rails.
CLP or lubricating oil between the bolt and carrier and on the bolt.

I use grease on all my pistols -even the Glocks with no ill effect. Sig 'Specials' and M14? definately...

CLP is better than nothing....

There should be no lubrication on the buffer and spring, there is no need for it. I agree that CLP is better than nothing, but nothing wasn't an option.

TDC
 
use a bit of moly, it works in 25mm cannons so it will do fine in an ar. just use a bit and you'll be fine

Well thats not a forsure, 25mm does not have hot gasses contacting the grease. So I would not trust Moly D in a "AR" platform with out alot of testing.
SIG 550 are an AK style action and the hot gases are not redirected into the receiver so there good to go.

I would like to see how it does in a AR during a heavy session of shooting.
 
When you guys are using grease, how easy to you find cleaning the excess fouling off the bolt and carrier to be? I've never used grease (only CLP) and I always thought getting all that extra fouling off with grease would be a major PITA.
 
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