Were to find good 7.62x39 Ammo in Canada ?

CONTRACT;
Since the great majority of the Czech surplus was brought in by us I can tell you that it is ALL corrosive....

Any of the dealers mentioned here can provide you with the very same ammo, as can Wholesale Sports, SIR/CABELA, Milarm, etc, etc.... Its all the same
John

Do you realy have to use every chance you get to pat your company on the back??? Or can you just not resist a chance to toot your own horn. All you needed to say is that it is all corrosive, instead of the usual "oh oh look at me Im marstar, I import lots of ammo, oh please someone give me attention!!"
 
Do you realy have to use every chance you get to pat your company on the back??? Or can you just not resist a chance to toot your own horn. All you needed to say is that it is all corrosive, instead of the usual "oh oh look at me Im marstar, I import lots of ammo, oh please someone give me attention!!"

He's using the fact that it was his company that brought the majority of it in to qualify his statement that 'It is all corrosive'.

It looks like you have an agenda of your own.
 
We are almost out and should be getting another shipment in soon. The price will be going up soon as well.

Ryan
 
7.62X39 123 gr V-MAX Steel Case from HORNADY should be available somewhere soon.

Who is going to bring it in?
From what I understand, 7.62x39 ammo and brass cannot be exported from the US.

Is his 1993 production stuff any different???
Quality wise? Packaging?

Or just the same steel cased corrosive that was made in '93 instead of '73.
I would like to know as well. Chemist?
 
Different supplier, higher cost, 20 years newer, 1200 instead of 1120 rounds. Ours will be $199 or $209 a case, depends on final freight cost.
 
I've been shooting the '93 vintage stuff. 1200 rds/box.

Sprayed down with Windex at the range and rust formed immediately.

Not sure what the wolverine stuff looks like (havent bothered to crack open the tin can yet!) but this stuff comes in 4 plastic sleeves - Each sleeve has 300 rounds, in sets of 10 rd stripper clips individually wrapped in a bit of cardboard and another plastic bag.

tip: Bring a utility knife to the range if you're going through a lot of ammo, and bring a garbage bag because you're going to be making a mess with plastic and cardboard all over.
 
You still have to clean and oil it after the windex.

NO kidding.......

Yup Spray with Windex and then clean and oil normally, no problem with my norc SKS for over 3 years and who knows how many thousands of rounds of corrosive down the pipe.


Think about it - Windex is mostly water. Moisture + salt causes rust

How much ammonia or whatever it is in the Windex is needed to absorb all of the salts on the rifle? You don't really know, because you don't know how much salt is on the rifle. I'm guessing no matter what the resulting liquid of Windex + primer salts is still going to be salty and wet.

ie - just to illustrate my point:
Lets say 1gram of salts is counteracted by 1 ml of ammonia

Say 100ml of Windex with 1% ammonia = 1ml of ammonia

So you spray 100ml on the rifle and its all good.

What if its 5 ml of ammonia to counteract 1 gram of salts? End result is 100ml of water with 4 grams of salt in it that starts rusting your rifle instantly Or you'll have to spray 500ml of Windex to counteract it all -

What if you shot 1500 rounds through your rifle that day and you have 10 grams of salt on you rifle? Are you going to pour 10 times as much Windex on to counteract the salts?

I know those numbers aren't real, but I could see when I used Windex where the Windex dried it left a white residue (most likely salt!) and began to rust within minutes. To me this says the Windex is NOT counteracting the salts. What's the point of using Windex if you just end up with a wet salty gun?

You're probably better off just using water (cheaper than Windex) - Or not using water based cleaners at all.

I'll be sticking to oil and solvent from now on.


Ziiiiiiiiiip - Puts on flame suit
 
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Dump on kettle of boiling hot water down barrel then use this;
p_100000001_1.jpg

Dry the Oil.
End of Story.
 
boiling water then clean or windex and clean; both way's work when done quickly and properly. don't let the gun sit too long after shooting and don't just do the water or windex thing without cleaning and oiling right after.
 
Windex doesn't neutralize the corrosive element. The water in the product just washes it away. I believe Windex also has "ammonia d" which isn't the same as straight ammonia (please correct me if this is wrong).

Either way, hot water is the best, followed by normal cleaning and oiling, only an extra 10 min or so.
 
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