Hornday casefeeder timing

[Onagoth]

This is what I was referring to when I read some where that someone was having the same trouble and shimmed the shell plate, i see no reason why it would not work, maybe Jarlath can shed some more light on what he did?

I also am curious, mine was fussy at first too but with some tweaking and a few thousand rounds it seems to be good now, maybe my spring has more ware and tare on it....

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3932955#post3932955
post #2

I also read of some people clearing up issues by gently stretching the spring (which it seems would also be done through normal use)

I've put maybe around 500-700 rounds through my...honestly, it would be more, but reloading seems to be a pain with these issues.

Thanks for the tips on the primer shuttle Acrashb, I'll give em a try.

 

[acrashb]

i see no reason why it would not work

It may well work, but you shouldn't do it.

Would you:
- try an aftermarket set of rings in your new car if you saw smoke out of the tailpipe under throttle?
- replace the hubs in your Cervélo bicycle if the ones it came with had too much play?
- shim the hinges in your new refrigerator if the door didn't seal properly?

No - you'd call someone and get it fixed under warranty. Self-reliance, here, just isn't called for.

It's one thing to upgrade or correct design deficiencies (e.g., people who make primer disposal tubes for Dillon 650's, or putting a wooden rod in the LNL AP primer feed to see how many are left). It's another to correct a manufacturing defect - use your warranty. Hanging 9mm on the spring, given the pictures we've seen, is not a design flaw (mine doesn't do it, ever), so it's a manufacturing defect of some type.

I would accept minor polishing / buffing (something Lee Loadmaster owners know about!) or mild new-spring stretching (if that cures things without wrecking the spring), but shimming something that should and will work out of the box is the wrong approach.

And calling Hornady is free. Maybe they already have a small number of known fixes for this issue and will take care of it on the phone.

Or, one could spend many frustrating weeks with shims, files, and hammers and void one's warranty.

 

[msg.drew]

It may well work, but you shouldn't do it.

Would you:
- try an aftermarket set of rings in your new car if you saw smoke out of the tailpipe under throttle?
- replace the hubs in your Cervélo bicycle if the ones it came with had too much play?
- shim the hinges in your new refrigerator if the door didn't seal properly?

No - you'd call someone and get it fixed under warranty. Self-reliance, here, just isn't called for.

It's one thing to upgrade or correct design deficiencies (e.g., people who make primer disposal tubes for Dillon 650's, or putting a wooden rod in the LNL AP primer feed to see how many are left). It's another to correct a manufacturing defect - use your warranty. Hanging 9mm on the spring, given the pictures we've seen, is not a design flaw (mine doesn't do it, ever), so it's a manufacturing defect of some type.

I would accept minor polishing / buffing (something Lee Loadmaster owners know about!) or mild new-spring stretching (if that cures things without wrecking the spring), but shimming something that should and will work out of the box is the wrong approach.

And calling Hornady is free. Maybe they already have a small number of known fixes for this issue and will take care of it on the phone.

Or, one could spend many frustrating weeks with shims, files, and hammers and void one's warranty.

some good advice

 

[Onagoth]

some good advice

x2

Just got off the phone with them, they knew exactly what the problem was. Apparently, some shell plates fail to keep the spring low/snug enough when passing by the first station.

They're sending me a new plate straight away.

Thanks for your help and suggestions guys, all of it was much appreciated

I'll let you know how it goes when the new one comes in.

 

[msg.drew]

Out of curiousity what brand of brass are you useing... I know some mfg's have different designs and sometimes they all dont fit the shell holder exactly right.... speer 40 S&W brass comes to mind there bottem and the part that engages the ejector is different then lets say winchester 40 S&W

 

[thegunnut]

re your primer feed issue... slide jamming.
Had the same problem and found the punch (#26) was sitting "proud" of the sub plate (#24).
This flipped primers and caused all kinds of mayhem with the primer slide jamming.
Got a new punch and all is well.
Check it out.... it doesn't have to be high by much to cause a problem.

 

[Onagoth]

Out of curiousity what brand of brass are you useing... I know some mfg's have different designs and sometimes they all dont fit the shell holder exactly right.... speer 40 S&W brass comes to mind there bottem and the part that engages the ejector is different then lets say winchester 40 S&W

Using all sorts of brass.....I have had more problems with win brass than with fed brass though, and nickel casings seem to feed flawlessly every time. Hopefully the new shellplate will help.

re your primer feed issue... slide jamming.
Had the same problem and found the punch (#26) was sitting "proud" of the sub plate (#24).
This flipped primers and caused all kinds of mayhem with the primer slide jamming.
Got a new punch and all is well.
Check it out.... it doesn't have to be high by much to cause a problem.

I'm not sure thats the problem. The primer slider jams when the ram is fully up, when all the casings are in the dies.

I'm not really have problems on jamming with the punch.

It seems whats happening, is that 1 whole primer is dropping into the shuttle, and a second one has a fraction in the shuttle as well. This stops the shuttle from sliding forward. I may have to get a replacement shuttle from Hornady.