norc 1911 polishing and buffing

bravo-05

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got me a police 1911.

i would like to know if there is a thread with pics of what parts to buff and polish as far as the internals are concerned....kinda like a how-to guide....couldnt find one if it exists.

also, i would like to know if i sand off the blued finish off the trigger and hammer is the metal under silver....id like to do this for aesthetic reasons....

thanks in advance.
 
How-to guides:
colt45.gif
m1911.gif


Available from your local library, from any book seller, or from Brownells.

All the parts, tools, and fixtures are also available from Brownells.

Sanding the blue off is a bad idea. If you remove the blue from carbon steel parts you will have unprotected parts that are "in the white" (or silver) and which will then rust like...I don't know what...but they'll rust (and become iron oxide brown).
 
The metal under the blue is steel. Silver is for jewellery. LOL.

But yes it is the colour of steel which would look similar to silver. But it will rust fast. You can buy these parts for under $100 for both shipped from Brownells. I installed my own trigger but not sure about installing a hammer, but ive been thinkin about it.
 
I once polished the bluing off of a Norinco 1911, all down the sides to give the eclipse look....while I did a pisspoor job of it, it never did rust in the 2 or more years I owned it.
I used a polishing wheel on a grinder with brick polish or whatever its called, the dark brown stuff anyway - I didn't have the red or white at the time. (can't remember which ones are finer)
...anyway, I'd try polishing the hammer and trigger - the trigger is always used so it'll probably stay polished without rust. The hammer on a 1911 isn't used as much, but I'd do it anyway....whats the worst that can happen, polish it again next year?? or 3 years from now ?

I think polish in itself tends to fill any porosity in the metal that might otherwise hold moisture and rust.
 
If your going to remove the blue, a simple and cheap method id to use vinegar. It takes time, and you have to wipe the parts every half hour or so, but its cheap and effective.

If you want a mirror like finish, when polishing, try to avoid use of a polishing wheel. They remove too much material at a time, and can round out or "crater" edges of holes. A gunsmith told me that the best way, is to use a semi-soft sanding block like cork and use progressively finer emery cloth, alternating between sanding lengthwise and width wise, but always ending lenthwise. He says it usually take him 6 hours to do a rifle.
 
How-to guides:
colt45.gif
m1911.gif


Available from your local library, from any book seller, or from Brownells.

All the parts, tools, and fixtures are also available from Brownells.

Sanding the blue off is a bad idea. If you remove the blue from carbon steel parts you will have unprotected parts that are "in the white" (or silver) and which will then rust like...I don't know what...but they'll rust (and become iron oxide brown).

If I asked for either of those at my local library the hemp skirt wearing, communist, whale friendly ecologist/librarian lesbian (oops I mean feminist - who am I kidding this is Victoria - lesbian), behind the counter would try to ship my backside to the Gulag for re-education :D
 
vinegar.....how long does the process take? :eek:

all in all around 4-5 hours. It worked out for me as I was studying and I would just study for half an hour, wipe the parts off, and repeat untill the parts were stripped (i then studied until 2am) Its not the quickest method, but most people have a jug of vinegar sitting around so its cheap. But apparently you can just go straight to bead blasting if you want the "stainless" look.
 
I could try to post pics, since then I have polished with some emory cloth. When the blue is removed, the steel is a dull grey. I quick rub with steel wool would remove the dullnes though.
 
no need. thanks for the brand. if you google remove bluing with vinegar there is a link with several pictures. if i remove the bluing and polish with polishing steel wool will i get a shiny result?
 
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