My First and ONLY Rifle -- Pictures Page 1/20/25 -- Range Review Page 28 --
- Thread starter Koshy
- Start date
Hitting the "refresh" button in this thread a lot, are we lol?
The bipod is a Parker Hale, basically what your old bipod was knocking-off. My thread can be linked to from the first quote in my sig. You'll see that they look exactly the same, although I added some rubber feet, courtesy of A.I.
16.5 lbs? Pretty heavy compared to what I'm used to... Need a spot? lol
You're lucky you have access to these long ranges
The bipod is a Parker Hale, basically what your old bipod was knocking-off. My thread can be linked to from the first quote in my sig. You'll see that they look exactly the same, although I added some rubber feet, courtesy of A.I.
16.5 lbs? Pretty heavy compared to what I'm used to... Need a spot? lol
You're lucky you have access to these long ranges
- Location
- Coquitlam, BC
According to recently released rules, your rifle is not allowed in the factory class in F-class. Correct me if I am wrong.
Hitting the "refresh" button in this thread a lot, are we lol?
The bipod is a Parker Hale, basically what your old bipod was knocking-off. My thread can be linked to from the first quote in my sig. You'll see that they look exactly the same, although I added some rubber feet, courtesy of A.I.
16.5 lbs? Pretty heavy compared to what I'm used to... Need a spot? lol
You're lucky you have access to these long ranges
Ohhh xD
I'm not sure how I lost your post but somehow I managed to =/
Yess, 16.5 lbs with everything on it, when all is said and done
What is your Blaser? Probably quite low with such a weird frame (but tacticool for sure). BTW your rifle (and mine) are in Hitman the movie for like 3 seconds... mine shoots over 4 km and kills a dude then he blows it up!!! lol Did someone tap a spot for the Bipod for you? How is it secured inside of the stock? NVM, you cheated and used a handstop
You should upgrade to the version that has knobs for locking down Cant and Tilt... or wait on me to review the Atlas I feel sorry for you (and your rifle) that you cannot get out to far and really test her! Is your scope back yet?!?! JEESH!
You need to repost your pictures of how your targets were (Page 2 I think)... because it is now advertisements
I know isn't the camo awesome?? It literally blends into anything! Sadly it isn't mobile enough for me, but if you really like it that much, you can buy it from me cheap!
Yea I saw those... they make this Panda sad =( Sako TRG comes in at 11 lbs or so... add in a bipod and a scope and you're over the limit! As for my rifle, it starts over the weight limit
Thanks,
- Koshy
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- Location
- Coquitlam, BC
Yea I saw those... they make this Panda sad =( Sako TRG comes in at 11 lbs or so... add in a bipod and a scope and you're over the limit! As for my rifle, it starts over the weight limit
There's always F-Open
rnbra-shooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Brunswick
Hmmm - I had never thought about a monopod being prohibited as a rear support, and was about to tell you that you were wrong. So I looked in the rules, in particular section F2 of the rules, and it seems that you are correct. Rule F2.14.1, which is for F/Restricted rifles (223 or 308) specifically mentions a rear bag, and rule F2.18 seems to clearly rule out having the aft part of the rifle touch the ground, and also prohibits a rear rest from being attached to the rifle.
I have some Federal Gold Match 168 gr waiting in the wings for me to get out to 100+ yards
Don't be shy about using it at 50 yards either - seriously.
Well I have a good 3 years shooting .22's and was also coached in that time period. So it is a testimate to what he taught me then I guess
Everything you have learned shooting smallbore, will be applicable to shooting your .308. Some things about shooting a fullbore rifle are more difficult, e.g. you have to not let the recoil and blast interfere with you doing your job right. Other things about fullbore are easier - good fullbore rifles are usually more accurate that good smallbore rifles, and fullbore rifles can be less sensitive to errors in hold and follow-through.
I would say the major skill I need to work on still is follow through, now something that might have been throwing me off is since the rifle was "jumping" and by the time it settled down was 2 feet off target. Although it does train me to be consistent with body position, etc (because I have to get back into it after every shot). It makes it kind of hard to follow through/know if you are following through because your sight picture is way off after the shot
The important thing is that you do the right things (hold and squeeze) as you lead up to the trigger break, when the trigger break happens, and after the trigger has broken and the rifle recoils. The whole point of "follow through" is to get you to start thinking your way *through* the firing event, instead of thinking up *to* it and then stopping there and perhaps changing course.
It's OK if you see your muzzle and sights jump up and away. In fact, if you see this, this means that you *are* watching and seeing what is happening, which is exactly what you are supposed to do. Line your sights up, make the trigger break, and see things happen/unfold. Don't worry about controlling where the rifle recoils, it doesn't really matter. Once it lands, it is time to get ready for the next shot. But until *this* shot is over, finish working on *this* shot - watch the sights/muzzle *through* the event of the rifle firing.
For F-Class would it need to be removed or just not used? I didn't plan on using it for F-Class shooting or Precision Rifle even if it was allowed, I wanted to use a rear bag
Whatever you wish, just don't have it touch the ground. If you want, you could extend it so that it is about half an inch shorter than needed to support the rifle on aim. Then wrap your nonshooting hand around it in a fist, and set your fist on the ground (the monopod is inside your fist, but not touching the ground). This can provide a very solid and stable support for the rear of the rifle.
Once all is said and done, and the build is complete the rifle should squeak in under 16.5 lbs and should end up about 16.4-16.45 hahah (If I need to drop a little more weight, I can remove the side mounting rails, as well as the monopod and front Spigot)
F-TR weight limit is 8.25kg (18.15lb), so you are fine.
I just hope I can compete in Factory Rifle F-Class, as that would be fun and not having to face all sorts of crazy custom guns
I would be shocked if you were allowed in Factory Rifle. Though your rifle technically is a factory rifle, it does go against the general spirit of such classes (which is generally to allow people with not-spectacularly-accurate rifles to participate). I can't recall the exact wording of the ORA's "F/Manufacturer" class, but I thought that they had ruled out the target-rifles-in-drag (e.g. Sake TRG, single shot Savages, Remington 40X, etc), and your rifle really is the moral equivalent of them. I *do* assume that the reason you have spent so much time and so much money on this project is that you do not want to have a middling rifle, you want something that has first-rate accuracy, eh? Well, welcome..... and now you get to shoot against other rifles with first-rate accuracy ;-)
BTW, one of the great debates in classification is, do you classify the *rifle*, or do you classify the *shooter*? F-Class does the former - e.g. F/Open, F/TR. Target rifle does the latter - Master, Expert, Sharpshooter. There are other ways too - handicap systems, or "division" systems (the Aussies do this). All are imperfect in their own ways of course. All are trying to level the playing field in some manner.
Rifleman1911
CGN Regular
- Location
- Leduc county AB
Do you find that the bolt is hard to open, I have the same type of setup in a hunting rifle and it seems to be tougher to open the bolt than most commercial rifles.
There's always F-Open
Hahaha, no thanks, 10-20k spent on the rifle... 338's and 6BR's that are far more accurate... crazy contraptions to hold the rifle
Just isn't my thing Haha, I have to be a little shy, with it being $40-50 a box
But I'm sure I will at least try it once it is sighted in, and when I'm fresh (have had shooting sessions go from 10 at night till 3 am).I'm not really trying to control where the rifle goes, I am more trying to get the rifle to do what it is suppose to (if I do my part), which is shoot into my shoulder, allowing there to be a follow up shot on the same target WITHOUT moving the rifle (or simply moving it forward a few millimeters, rather then left or right). It might not seem like much, but the rifle is hopping to the point I have to pick it up and move the rifle right 1-2". As you can imagine not only is this annoying (having to lift and move the rifle after every shot, as well as get back into position after every shot). It kills consistency since it is near impossible (short of putting down tape) to get the rifle back into the same position. I have seen many a videos where the rifle pushes into the shooters shoulder (yes with .308's to, and no not always with a muzzle brake), and allows the shooter to take a follow up shot because they still have a perfect sight picture.
Yes I thought about using the monopod as something to wrap my hand/bag up against/around but since I didn't have a bag yet I didn't try it
I did try it for shooting from a bench that wasn't long enough to take my rifle + monopod/arm and it worked quite well Yes F-TR is 18.5 lbs, but Precision Rifle is 16.5 lbs
And somehow I think my rifle would be in its element (and what it was designed for somewhat) being in PR (which also allows muzzle brakes). Also PR limits to .223 and .308 putting me on somewhat the same playing field as others.I totally understand what you are saying about F-Factory, could you imagine someone using a Cheytac or something? Hahaha just wouldn't be very fair. I just liked the idea of the rifles being UNMODIFIED, makes the class sound fun.
Why couldn't you classify both the rifle and the shooter? Although nothing is that simple
This is a good question.
I will give my opinion and experience in a few parts.
First I'm not sure how many locking lugs yours has, but mine has 4 huge ones up front. Perhaps this plays into it?
I would say, it seems with every shooting session the operation of the bolt gets easier and easier, started out very stiff (was new), but with a little over 100 rounds down the barrel now it is quite a bit smoother, and I can notice it get better with every range outing. The bolt also seems to like the cold weather better, when I was at the outdoor Silverdale range it was super uber butter smooth.
As for opening and closing the bolt, I'm not sure if I can be a fair judge on this. Trying my buddies Savage Tacticool bolt action, I noticed it to be about the same amount of effort to operate the bolt open (although his had less rounds through it). It could also have something to do with being a long action rather then a short action of say a R700. It might also have something to do with not wanting the bolt to catch on something and opening "accidentally".
Personally, I have been trying to operate the bolt faster (as fast as I can without losing my target), although this was done before I had the scope mounted I was able to get it down to a pretty good pattern (holding breath, pull the trigger, breath -- chambering round at same time, ready to hold breath again) all within 2-4 seconds. I figure with another 100-300 rounds through the rifle I will have this down to a science.
But I do know what you are talking about, I see videos quite often (with short actions mind you) of guys operating their bolt very quickly with what looks to be little/no effort.
Conclusions: Practice makes perfect, try practicing bolt throw without having your barrel go off target. Also I'm not an expert, as stated earlier it might be purposeful that it requires "effort" to operate the bolt, it might be a good sign of a well built action or it might not
Above are just observations by me.
If someone else has "facts" or experience please feel free and chime in.
Thanks,
- Koshy
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- Location
- Coquitlam, BC
Hahaha, no thanks, 10-20k spent on the rifle... 338's and 6BR's that are far more accurate... crazy contraptions to hold the rifle
Fair enough.
Except no one spends $10-20k on a rifle. A top notch custom with the best components with a March scope MAY reach $10k, but it's the nut behind the gun that matters in the end
And why would one shoot 338 in F-open?
I imagine the recoil will kill the shooter after 15-shot strings (with no brake allowed). Cost isn't that attractive either Ohhh xD
I'm not sure how I lost your post but somehow I managed to =/
Yess, 16.5 lbs with everything on it, when all is said and done
Did someone tap a spot for the Bipod for you? How is it secured inside of the stock? NVM, you cheated and used a handstop
It wighs in at about 12½ lbs. with all accessories mounted. Never saw that movie, but I can tell you that there aren't any Steyrs.
To lock in cant and tilt, I just lean into it - simple as that.
That's exactly the way I most often shoot - quite effective. Shooter, let me just say that yours are amongst the posts I respect the most in that you offer advice on how to be a better marksman vs. how to make a better rifle. Some people put the carriage in front of the horse!
rnbra-shooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Brunswick
Why couldn't you classify both the rifle and the shooter? Although nothing is that simple
You could. Though without much effort it's pretty easy to come up with classification systems that end up having one shooter in each class. Which doesn't do any good, really ;-)
If you haven't already been shown how to clean, and more importantly, how to lube your bolt lugs, find out ASAP. A good place to ask would be at the ORA winter training sessions you are taking.
(Just in case you don't already know this: if the bolt lugs aren't adequately greased, they can gall. Galling is where metal surfaces under pressure cold-weld to each other. Tears out chunks/gouges of steel. Not good - permanent damage!)
And why would one shoot 338 in F-open?
Seen it done. Not my idea of a good time but whatever floats your boat.
A four lug bolt will be twice as heavy to #### the firing pin as a two lug bolt because the firing pin must travel the same distance in half the twist. There are other factors involved, not appropriate for this thread, but you get the point.
Koshy, welcome to F Class, wherever you decide to fit in.
Koshy, welcome to F Class, wherever you decide to fit in.
Fair enough.
Except no one spends $10-20k on a rifle. A top notch custom with the best components with a March scope MAY reach $10k, but it's the nut behind the gun that matters in the end
And why would one shoot 338 in F-open?
Custom Rifle I totally agree, probably looking at $6-8K for very top of the line. But consider a Barrett or a Cheytac now you are looking at $10-15K (most people won't go this route, but I have heard of a couple)
Now if you want a rifle scope you can see the X at massive distances, you probably wouldn't go with a Hensoldt, but if you did and buying in Canada you are looking at $5-6K (I'm assuming because it is, $4,000 in USA).
As for the recoil just create a pillow, a very, very big pillow
It wighs in at about 12½ lbs. with all accessories mounted. Never saw that movie, but I can tell you that there aren't any Steyrs.
To lock in cant and tilt, I just lean into it - simple as that.
That's exactly the way I most often shoot - quite effective. Shooter, let me just say that yours are amongst the posts I respect the most in that you offer advice on how to be a better marksman vs. how to make a better rifle. Some people put the carriage in front of the horse!
Wow nice and light
Hummm thought I saw it at the beginning of the movie
I guess the guy I bought the rifle from lied to me Or maybe that website is wrong!! DU DUDU!! I could swear I saw it at the start of the movie, where he makes the 4km shot, but it is such a quick image of the rifle... it is hard to tell... I should have taken a picture of it When they put the carriage in front of the horse, they wind up finding out they just have a pony
Yea that was one of my concerns with using both classification systems, that a lot of people would just be facing themselves.
Hey look I beat myself I have been taught how to clean my rifle, but I will ask at ORA Winter Training to, just to get a couple different opinions
As for the lugs, some say use a high quality grease, others say that just gun oil is fine to lubricate it... I think I will opt for the grease after that little scary story of yours Here is the grease that was suggested to me: http://www.cabelas.com/p-0059607221055a.shtml
TSE (The Shooting Edge -- Calgary) has "one" in stock:
Steyr SSG-08 .308 Win Black $5,799.00
Yes sir they can!
You could always just put a nice big pillow under your jacket hahahha
Yea I figured the weight also had something to do with it (and trust me the bolt is heavy in comparison to others), and yes I do get the point. Personally I do find it requires "effort" but it isn't anything you cannot adjust to and become very proficient at (for quick bolt operation).
Thanks cannot wait to shoot this spring!
I will look into it for sure, thanks for the suggestion!
Rifle Update:
Cleaned the rifle the other day since it had a little over 100 (mostly cheap) rounds through it and before I cleaned it I took a look down the bore, and it looked pretty shiny
Proceeded to run a couple dry patches through, with very little fowling, ran a couple nitro patches through with very little copper residue coming off after with the dry patches, ran a good 4-5 dry patches through at the very end to make sure none of the solvent was left... and I was getting ZERO "powder" the entire time. Looked at the bore again, was very bright and shiny, then ran a bore light in it, and it looked like a hall of mirrors with a spot light on it... sooo bright and shiny you cannot see anything. Final words? LOVE IT. First time I have cleaned a rifle and within 4-5 patches there is absolutely nothing on the patches at the end
Thanks,
- Koshy
The heavy bolt lift is because of a) four lugs, b) a heavy firing pin spring. Like it has been stated above, make sure you grease the back of the locking lugs and the primary extraction point on the action/bolt handle. A lug recess cleaning tool also comes in very handy, Sinclair's sells them. w w w.sinclairintl.com/product/10475/ActionChamber-Cleaning-Tools
