Heckler and Koch G36C (more pics in 1st post)

TRG-42 said:
SL-8 / G36 barrels come off just as easily , its just the tool is more expensive . Although the "receiver / chamber mandrel " is recommended, you can actually do it without this tool by holding the barrel. The barrel guide pin holds the barrel extension sleeve from turning ( the part that the mandrel / bolt engages ). Because these rifles have steel barrel nut on steel extension sleeve, they never should be stuck / seized, and therefore will not overstress this guide pin. Although spec is 66ft lbs for the barrel nut, I have found most are much less when taking them off.
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I was referring to the lack of available barrel & piston assemblies for the different lengths. Not using the "receiver / chamber mandrel" (also known as the trunion rod) runs the risk of ripping the barrel extension out of the receiver, which makes the multithousand dollar firearm a write-off. Don't do it, always use the mandrel to counter the rotation of the barrel extension, even if it may appear to be pointless.

Anyone know a place to get the tools (mandrel and wrench) made for less than 400$ (maybe 150$ - 200$ or less, total)?
 
oenone said:
I was referring to the lack of available barrel & piston assemblies for the different lengths. Not using the "receiver / chamber mandrel" (also known as the trunion rod) runs the risk of ripping the barrel extension out of the receiver, which makes the multithousand dollar firearm a write-off. Don't do it, always use the mandrel to counter the rotation of the barrel extension, even if it may appear to be pointless.

Anyone know a place to get the tools (mandrel and wrench) made for less than 400$ (maybe 150$ - 200$ or less, total)?
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The I paid $100 from HKParts.net ( when I was living in the states....I don't know if he will sell to you in Canada ), the chamber mandrel I made . Not using the chamber mandrel will NOT rip out the barrel extention sleeve...how could it, you are not holding / clamping on the receiver. Used the "hold the barrel trick" from Adam at hkparts.net . He does know his HKs . Only reason I built a mandrel was I was bored one day

You are correct however, that holding on to the reciever ( like you do on a AR upper ) could result in the barrel extention sleeve breaking off from the
 
UncleWalther:

Screw you and your money. I hate that you have more than me.

:lol:

That being said: Nice rifle. It looks wicked cool. Enjoy it. You know, over the years on this forum, I've come to appreciate your posts. You are a connoisseur of a certain type of gun, and you handle them well.
 
Awesome little gun. I've always wanted one too.

I'd love a UMP9 even more though..... Anyone have one to trade? I have a Knights SR15, a Benelli M4, and a Tag Heuer Grande Carrera Calibre S I'd part with. :D
 
wicked_police said:
Awesome little gun. I've always wanted one too.

I'd love a UMP9 even more though..... Anyone have one to trade? I have a Knights SR15, a Benelli M4, and a Tag Heuer Grande Carrera Calibre S I'd part with. :D
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man, the UMP9mm's (and 9mm parts) are rare enough in the USA as it is. Dont even want to think about them in Canada :p
 
oenone said:
Certainly something new I have never heard of. Would you care to please expand on that? Much appreciated.
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If you look at the cross section view in the G36/SL-8 Armourers manual it makes more sense that I can explain ...so bare with me

The trick is to hold the barrel extention sleeve from turning as you tighten the barrel nut. In a G36/SL-8 is not a good idea to hold the reciever because the reciever is injection molded over this part

The proper "reciever / chamber mandrel....as the armourers manual calls it" holds it by the locking lugs ( keep in mind this is different from a AR barrel where locking lugs are part of the barrel assembly , not the reciever )

Turns out the G36/SL-8 uses a heavy barrel guide pin ( much beefier than the index pin in an AR...plus is is bearing steel on steel...unlike an AR ) that engages one of the flutes in the barrel

See the armourers manual for a great view on how beefy this pin is and how far it goes into the barrel extention

Therefore if you hold the barrel, as you unscrew the barrel nut, the barrel extenion cannot turn ( since its barrel guide pin is engaged in the barrel flute )

You are not putting ANY stress on the relatively fragile reciever ...its just going along for the ride

You may doubt the pins ability to handle the 66 ft lbs of torque but here is food for though. Brownells new AR-15 Barrel Extention Torque tool does just this on a much smaller index pin into an aluminum reciever . Holds the barrel while you torque the nut. I would assume that Brownells knows what they are doing

Another think is the HK barrel wrenches are easy to find...no one has mandrels. Read what you will into that

If you don't have a pic of the cross section of the Armourers manual I can sent it when i get back into town. Makes far more sense than my aimless babbling here !!

Sorry for the hijack unclewalter
 
TRG-42 said:
If you look at the cross section view in the G36/SL-8 Armourers manual it makes more sense that I can explain . . .

. . .far more sense than my aimless babbling here !!
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No, no, I understand what you are getting at, and this is the image you are referring to:

4uzxqu.jpg


and these are the flutes you are referring to:

2gtnbwk.jpg


The pin goes through the barrel extension into the receiver, meaning that any rotational stresses are shared by the barrel and the barrel extension. So, instead of holding the barrel extension, we hold the barrel, and thanks to that pin, the forces are transferred to the barrel extension. 66 pounds is about the weight of a 9 year old child. (The mass of children varies from specimen to specimen. Your results may vary.) The HK G36 barrel guide pin can hold up a 9 year old child, no doubt about it (just don't ask how I know).

So we must hold the barrel. Now, a question about this: How does one hold the barrel? One can clamp the gas block, but that risks damaging the gas block. So, one can take a block of wood, drill a hole in it slightly less than the diameter of the barrel at the point of clamping, cut hole in half, and clamp barrel that way. Is that what is done? How does it hold up? Is there a different/better method?
 
i have owned a G36 ( got it from Greentips) as well as a UMP in 45acp, loved the guns had them for about 2 years sold them for $1000,s more then i paid.
Only reason i sold them was for the deposit for my house.
G36 was the best shooting gun i have owned.
But i did like my vlamet 78 in 308 the best for long range.
 
johnl said:
For you sig guys. Is there a conversion kit available to use the 10 shot AR mags? Would be fun to shoot 11 rnds, one up the spout, out of the CQB.
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If you want to do things the hard way, you can take a SIG-556 lower (from the USA) and modify it to work with the Swiss Arms series uppers.


Since the US upper is the registered "gun" part as well as ours, the lower is like an AR15 upper for us, and wont cause the gun to become prohib. A few guys here have done it, and it looks pretty sweet.
 
oenone said:
)Now, a question about this: How does one hold the barrel? One can clamp the gas block, but that risks damaging the gas block.
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The only way you should hold a barrel...a proper barrel vise block like the one from Brownells ( needs bushings which sucks unless you have a lathe ) or if you don't plan to do lots of bolt guns then the Brownells barrel vise jaws is an economical choice. They are only $22

I would guess the wood block method would work if you don't have a barrel vise. I don't clamp it at the gas block ( usually you take it off anyways before you remove SL8 barrel ) but I doubt you would damage it. The roll pin on the G36/SL8 is far bigger than any pin in an AR gas block
 
F22_RaptoR said:
Since the US upper is the registered "gun" part as well as ours, the lower is like an AR15 upper for us, and wont cause the gun to become prohib. A few guys here have done it, and it looks pretty sweet.
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Just want to clarify this. In the US the "Upper" is the registered gun. In Canada the "Upper" is the registered gun. The lowers are just "parts" if you will. Is that correct?
 
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