RECIPE FOR LAZY 7.62 x 39 CORROSIVE AMMO SHOOTER

I heard that if you squeeze the innards out of a twinkie into the chamber and let it slowly work it's way down the barrel... It'll be full of twinkie innards.

Why is cleaning such a chore for most? How do you ever inspect your guns for problems, issues, wear, etc if you never do anything but shoot it? No wonder why so many people don't notice a problem until their gun fails. Cleaning doesn't have to be a 500-step process.

This gets done to death about every 2 weeks here.

..I'm in a chipper mood today. so I'll bow out at that. ;)

Hey...I've heard that cleaning and oiling after firing corrosive will not only cause rust...but expedite it!!

:stirthepot2:

I'm going to try your twinkie suggestion...
 
I heard that if you squeeze the innards out of a twinkie into the chamber and let it slowly work it's way down the barrel... It'll be full of twinkie innards.

lol! sound advice :)


another quick tip : rest bore on sponge in the sink so it slows the boiling water down from escaping and floods the entire barrel, getting into all that rifling.
 
So you guys DO clean with boiling water. Could you elaborate the process? Do you disassemble the rifle completely before doing it? I just can't imagine how it can be done!

It takes me about 5 minutes.

Strip it down, remove the piston, etc.

Lay everything out on your "dirty" towel. Take hot water from your tap, and put it into a measuring cup or a squeeze bottle (I use a squeeze-bottle like one you'd see fast-food condiments in; $2.99 @ a Real Canadian Wholesale for a bigass clear squeeze bottle). Squeeze/pour a healthy dose into the gas tube, filling it and letting it overflow. This will back-wash the gas tube salts into the bore and out the muzzle. Do this over your sink, obviously.

Then, fill with fresh hot water (or if it's hot enough, just keep going) and squeeze the rest of the bottle through the bore. Put your lips around the gas tube and blow out the "drop" that will stick in the gas port because of surface tension.

If the water was hot enough, you'll have a pretty warm barrel/gas tube assembly. Set it aside to dry (on a clean towel), which it should in short order. Wipe the outside if you like; wipe the inside with dry patches if you like.

Run your piston under running tap hot water, and scrub the carbon out of the grooves if it's piling up. Set it aside to dry too (clean towel), which will go much faster if you just wipe it dry first.

Clean and oil the rest of the mechanism while this happens (I find there's not too much blowback through the action into the bolt/carrier, but I give it some love anyway - Breakfree CLP is what I use, but just use whatever you oil the gun with). Takes just a few minutes, and you're waiting for the barrel/gas tube to dry anyway.

Now that your upper assembly is dry, run one oiled patch through the barrel. LEAVE THE GAS TUBE 100% DRY.

Reassemble.

Done.

-M
 
I heard that if you squeeze the innards out of a twinkie into the chamber and let it slowly work it's way down the barrel... It'll be full of twinkie innards.

Why is cleaning such a chore for most? How do you ever inspect your guns for problems, issues, wear, etc if you never do anything but shoot it? No wonder why so many people don't notice a problem until their gun fails. Cleaning doesn't have to be a 500-step process.

This gets done to death about every 2 weeks here.

..I'm in a chipper mood today. so I'll bow out at that. ;)

Ok, but how do you avoid the temptation to lick your chamber?
 
hey guys there is another thread about 10 pages long of cleaning rituals =)

All I do is spray mine with wd40 and it doesnt rust
 
I too have done the WD40 thing. If I am short on time and want to clean the 858 in a couple of days, I flush with boiling soapy water and then give everything a coat of WD40. Fine for days. Then I clean with Hoppe's and a barrel foam, etc. I lube with synthetic grease and away I go.
 
It ain't the bore that's the problem, it's the gas tube which doesn't see anywhere near as much pressure and wouldn't "spit out" the corrosive salts.
 
It ain't the bore that's the problem, it's the gas tube which doesn't see anywhere near as much pressure and wouldn't "spit out" the corrosive salts.


Well, I have made the experience, and after 2 weeks, absolutely no trace of rust in barrel and gaz tube.

All corrosive salt are throwed out by high pressure non corrosive ammo.

So, you can store your SKS without cleaning as any other semi auto rifles used by North American shooters / hunters.
 
Well, I have made the experience, and after 2 weeks, absolutely no trace of rust in barrel and gaz tube.

All corrosive salt are throwed out by high pressure non corrosive ammo.

So, you can store your SKS without cleaning as any other semi auto rifles used by North American shooters / hunters.

You know most SKSs have chrome-lined bores, right?
 
brake cleaner

brake cleaner when used to clean metal and then welded creates a gas called phosgene a deadly gas used in ww1, i'm not sure if the tempuratures of gun powder are sufficient to create this gas but i would think twice before i used it to clean a firearm. see youtube for videos of the horrendous consequences of exposure to phosgene:stirthepot2:
 
Holy carp, I didn't even think of that. Here's some info from wiki
CO + Cl2 → COCl2 (ΔHrxn = −107.6kJ/mol).
Typically, the reaction is conducted between 50 and 150 °C
Phosgene can be detected at 0.4 ppm, which is four times the Threshold Limit Value

Although you should be fine so long as you don't spray it into the gas system 2 min before you go shooting. Besides I have yet to hear of somone dying of phosgene poisoning from shooting corrosive surplus:p
 
Let's see, the op is a dealer and advocating use of non corrosive factory ammo to alleviate an easily and cheaply solved problem? :D

I think the fellow is just offering what he sees is useful advice based on personal experience, like most of us do if we think we've come across something useful.

Guys do ##### about cleaning SKS's and just because someone is a dealer doesn't mean there's a scam going on...

I clean my SKS like any other firearm, with Hoppes #9 and then some G96 for protection. Never any problems, but I do clean it right away after I get home from the range.
 
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