Slug Barrel and Bear Defence

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Could not really find anything here but I've bought a Grizzly 870 12.5" for hiking on the Sunshine Coast/Vancouver Island and Im curious to know what I should do to make it more ideal for bear deterance.

If I plan on only packing slugs, should I go ahead and replace the barrel? How much and where could I make this happen? Would 00 Buck be just as effective?


Thanks
 
"...Would 00 Buck be just as effective?..." Nope. Buckshot is unreliable for anything.
If Yogi is coming from within 100 yards, you'll never be fast enough.
 
My concern is the shorter barrel, 12.5". Either way, 4 slugs to the gut of a grizzly... I dont think it would still be standing >50 yards away.
 
What?

"...Would 00 Buck be just as effective?..." Nope. Buckshot is unreliable for anything.
If Yogi is coming from within 100 yards, you'll never be fast enough.

What the hell are you talking about lol? For starters if you actually need to be firing on a charging bear you wont need to fire until he is VERY close and buck shot will deff do the job better than slugs. People already have enough trouble shooting a motionless deer let alone a charging bear at close range. In the event of a bear charging and you crapping your pants most people will not hit a charging bear or anything els for that matter with slugs....lol and what are you talking about within 100 yards??? lol if hese anywhere near 100 you dont need to be "defending" yourself....mayby withing 23 yards you might want prepare yourself at the most....
 
While id never try to snipe a bear at 100 yards, or even shoot one that is not posing a threat for that matter, I think that if I spotted a grizzly 100 yards away Id be looking for an exit plan and a trigger lol!

I always assumed slugs were the way to go for backpacking.
 
My concern is the shorter barrel, 12.5". Either way, 4 slugs to the gut of a grizzly... I dont think it would still be standing >50 yards away.

I doubt you'd get off 4 rounds before it was on you if it started charging from 50 yards or less away, never mind actually connecting with all 4 rounds. I'd think that gut shooting it intentionally might not be your best bet either, I've no doubt it'd die after being gut shot by a 12 gauge slug, however it might have its' way with you before it died if you only wounded it. That said, you(or anyone) would probably have done well just to hit it anywhere in the heat of the moment, if it charged from a short distance away. There is probably a very good chance that the report from the shot will stop its' charge and send it packing anyway.None of this will be of any concern on the Island however as no Grizzlies live on V.I.(can't speak for the Sunshine Coast though).

Not meaning to dissuade you though, I just bought an 870 that I plan to buy a 12.5" barrel for, to be used when I'm out backpacking in case I encounter any surly bears(brown or black).
 
Your short barrel is fine for slug shooting, just be sure to choose those intended for use in a smooth bore rather than those designed for use in a rifled bore. If shooting becomes necessary, the additional bulk of a longer barrel, particularly one longer than 18" does not compensate for any gain in velocity which is minimal, and accuracy at reach out and touch ranges need not even enter the equation. Your gun should have sights that are easy to pick up the instant your cheek hits the stock, and you should practice on both stationary and moving targets if you can arrange it.

Brenneke classic slugs are the ones I trust with Challengers in second place. In both cases the penetration and wound volume exceeds the more common foster slugs. If your magazine holds less than 5 rounds, be sure to choose 23/4" slugs rather than 3" as the longer shells will cost you a round. Now I've said it myself, that if you haven't solved the problem with one or two shots, you probably won't be able to, and that is a good rule to keep in mind, but more ammo is comforting, and the importance of confidence cannot be overstated.

IMHO, buckshot has very limited and very specific use in the bear defense scenario. A bear can't hurt you if he can't touch you, so the purpose of shooting is to stop the bears forward progression, and this is usually done at very close range. If we allow an inch of increase in pattern diameter per yard of range, we see that there is no marksmanship advantage to buckshot; as a miss with a slug at 3 or 4 yards will also be a miss with buckshot. Stopping a bear's forward progression is best done by breaking a major supporting bone, the spine, or destroying the brain cavity. Buckshot ain't up to that. Where buckshot should be considered is if any shooting becomes necessary in populated areas like crowded camp grounds. The idea being that even if a pellet exits, it will have such little velocity left that is poses a much diminished danger to bystanders compared to a slug that exits. Should it become necessary to use buckshot, the head should be the aiming point on a face on bear, keeping in mind that the brain lies behind the eyes, ahead of the ears and is only the width of the snout.

Given the massively wide head typical of a bear, quickly acquiring an effective aiming point on the head somewhat confusing, but keeping the width of the snout and the ears and eyes as benchmarks helps. You should preprogram yourself to what you will do if you have to shoot. This will effectively reduce your reaction time.

If and when to shoot will have to be your decision. IMHO, shooting a bear at 50 or even 25 yards doesn't give the bear much of a chance to just go about his business. But every situation is different, and if you've been around bears enough to read them, you shouldn't hesitate to shoot a bear that makes you afraid, particularly if you are on foot and unable to get to safety.
 
Your short barrel is fine for slug shooting, just be sure to choose those intended for use in a smooth bore rather than those designed for use in a rifled bore. If shooting becomes necessary, the additional bulk of a longer barrel, particularly one longer than 18" does not compensate for any gain in velocity which is minimal, and accuracy at reach out and touch ranges need not even enter the equation. Your gun should have sights that are easy to pick up the instant your cheek hits the stock, and you should practice on both stationary and moving targets if you can arrange it.

Brenneke classic slugs are the ones I trust with Challengers in second place. In both cases the penetration and wound volume exceeds the more common foster slugs. If your magazine holds less than 5 rounds, be sure to choose 23/4" slugs rather than 3" as the longer shells will cost you a round. Now I've said it myself, that if you haven't solved the problem with one or two shots, you probably won't be able to, and that is a good rule to keep in mind, but more ammo is comforting, and the importance of confidence cannot be overstated.

IMHO, buckshot has very limited and very specific use in the bear defense scenario. A bear can't hurt you if he can't touch you, so the purpose of shooting is to stop the bears forward progression, and this is usually done at very close range. If we allow an inch of increase in pattern diameter per yard of range, we see that there is no marksmanship advantage to buckshot; as a miss with a slug at 3 or 4 yards will also be a miss with buckshot. Stopping a bear's forward progression is best done by breaking a major supporting bone, the spine, or destroying the brain cavity. Buckshot ain't up to that. Where buckshot should be considered is if any shooting becomes necessary in populated areas like crowded camp grounds. The idea being that even if a pellet exits, it will have such little velocity left that is poses a much diminished danger to bystanders compared to a slug that exits. Should it become necessary to use buckshot, the head should be the aiming point on a face on bear, keeping in mind that the brain lies behind the eyes, ahead of the ears and is only the width of the snout.

Given the massively wide head typical of a bear, quickly acquiring an effective aiming point on the head somewhat confusing, but keeping the width of the snout and the ears and eyes as benchmarks helps. You should preprogram yourself to what you will do if you have to shoot. This will effectively reduce your reaction time.

If and when to shoot will have to be your decision. IMHO, shooting a bear at 50 or even 25 yards doesn't give the bear much of a chance to just go about his business. But every situation is different, and if you've been around bears enough to read them, you shouldn't hesitate to shoot a bear that makes you afraid, particularly if you are on foot and unable to get to safety.

That about sums it up! I was going to say the same about the extra length and weight of a rifled barrel. They are longer and thicker and at 25 yards will not give you much of an advantage, but only add bulk and weight! I believe it is about 20 inches that velocity actual starts dropping so really there is no gain except a little accuracy, and at 25 yards is not a big deal.

Just get out and practice! It is not easy to get off 2-3 on target quick shots using slugs. It is much different than just dickin around with birdshot, so make sure you know what to expect in regards to recoil and follow up shots.
 
:sucks:

How many time is this going to be rehashed? Oh well, it's fun.

As for the original question, good luck finding a rifled 12.5" barrel, unless you go with dlask, which will cost you more than the DA griz did.

You've already made your decision, and that's fine. I'd opt for a short barreled lever action guide gun, in something like 45-70 govt. As bullet placement is the most important factor when shooting a bear at close range. I'd like to bet than I can put more bullets in the brain/spine faster and accurately with a lever action than the avg person can put slugs there.

Read this, full of sense...

http://www.chuckhawks.com/firearms_defense_bears.htm

To each their own!
 
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Thanks for the info, I suppose it does not make much of a difference at <25 yards wether your shotgun is factory made in china or worth more than $1000 with a rifled barrel.

The only realy question is load. I was even thinking it would be possible to load the mag with a mix of buck shot and slugs.
 
Rifled barrel will leave you with a much small selection of lighter slugs which I don't feel would be ideal.

Any reason you want to stagger the load?
 
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