First time reloading .45acp not snug in the barrel

S

Super_Chicken

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Hey guys,

I've been lurking for a long time reading tons of threads on reloading. I've got the lyman reloading manual and have finally finished exams so I've got some spare time to begin reloading. I've got the Hornady LNL Progressive AP, with Hornady Dies.

I'm loading exclusively .45 ACP, using Winchester once fired brass, Frontier Bullets from Marstar, and currently not using primers or power until I manage to set up my dies properly.

I've taken the barrel out of my 1911 in order to ensure the test rounds are fitting snug. I've got the OAL down but it seems the bullets aren't seating flush. I've included some pictures to show what I mean.

I'm not sure how to correct the dies to fix this problem. Again I don't mind making these squib loads so that once they are to spec I can dial in the power measure and start production.

It seems the front of the round is what's making contact with the barrel. The back can actually rock slightly pivots on the front of the bullet/brass(not sure what's exactly making contact.
I'm assuming the problem lies in my seating die, but like I said, I'm new to this and open to all advice.

Thanks guys!

Factory Winchester Cartridge:
00296.jpg

00297.jpg

00298.jpg


Homemade Round:
00301.jpg

00303.jpg

00304.jpg


As well a second quick question how much bell are you supposed to put on the brass? It seems I'm hardly putting any bell on, to the point where I almost don't need the die.
 
think you need more crimp.
Loosen the lock ring on the seating die and turn the die clockwise ,a bit at a time till your cartriges fit and thens crew it a wee bit more. This will screw your OAL so you will have to re adjust that as well.
You don't need much bell for jacketed bullets and just enough to help seat lead ones.
Get yourself a bullet puller so you can fix all the mistaked you are about to make.:D
 
Lee factory crimp die!

It is a taper crimp that pretty much sizes the casing at the mouth while it crimps. This in my opinion is a must for .45 acp. For some reason I always need to use it for 45, but 9mm i dont even have to crimp.

It will make your rounds alot more reliable and i use it for all my pistol cartridges regardless if it is needed or not. Just ensures I never hav an issue with feeding.
 
OneBarfly said:
x 2 Don't be afraid to give them an extra firm taper crimp.

Loaded rounds should just drop from the barrel when test fitting
Click to expand...

I use a magnifying glass at the bench to actually see the degree of crimp.
I cannot feel the crimp on my dillon progressive.
If the crimp die gets loose it will back off. Then you will go to the range with a bucket of ammo that will barely chamber.
I've been there:mad:

How much bell?
It is easy...
Too much bell will stress your brass unnecessarily. I shoot mostly revolver. The brass always wears out by cracks at the mouth.
Not enough bell and bullet will not fit the mouth easy every time and slow you down.

So the sweet spot for how much bell varies if your bullets are bevel base or not.
 
SaddleTramp said:
Check the length of your case for OAL. The maximum allowable length is.898" and should be trimmed to .895". The .45ACP headspaces on the mouth of the case. A slight taper crimp should be used. According to the Speer manual the expander ball should not exceed .450" in diameter.
Click to expand...

Uh trim straight walled pistol cases?

Never have in the last 3 years reloari g .45, 9mm and 44 mag.

I cant imagine that is the issue.
 
SaddleTramp said:
Check the length of your case for OAL. The maximum allowable length is.898" and should be trimmed to .895". The .45ACP headspaces on the mouth of the case. A slight taper crimp should be used. According to the Speer manual the expander ball should not exceed .450" in diameter.
Click to expand...

Yeah I checked the OAL of the brass it's roughly 0.889 so it should be fine. I'll add more crimp later tonight and see how well that helps. As for the bullet puller I think I'll have to get one for sure seeing how many test rounds I've already put together.

Worst case I'll look into that lee die if I end up getting really frustrated. :p
 
Hornady Dies

Super_Chicken said:
Yeah I checked the OAL of the brass it's roughly 0.889 so it should be fine. I'll add more crimp later tonight and see how well that helps. As for the bullet puller I think I'll have to get one for sure seeing how many test rounds I've already put together.

Worst case I'll look into that lee die if I end up getting really frustrated. :p
Click to expand...

Hi there.... I noticed that you are using Hornady dies for your 45. When i first started reloading i bought a hornady die set that would seat the bullet and crimp at the same time.. I had a very hard time getting it to crimp properly (my problem with reading the instructions with the dies, LOL). Reread the instructions if this is the type of die you have.... it helped me... You should be able to insert your made bullet into the chamber and rotate it, feeling it make contact with the end of the chamber and edge of the case...

One other thing that could be an issue is your OAL. Each gun is a bit different in the chamber and your may need a bit shorter OAL to get the made round to headspace on the case edge. I do know that my Colt required a different OAL than my son in laws Kimber... Actually the colt would eat anything but the kimber was fussy.. I had to subtantially shorten my standard round (.45 ACP) to make the kimber happy...

Hope you figure it out..

Good luck

RDG
 
The problem is the Frontier Plated bullet is not the same shape as a real FMJ 230gr bullet. It is fatter at the front (the ogive is closer to the tip) so when seated to the same overall length the bullet is engaging the rifling sooner and not letting it fully chamber. You will probably need a shorter overall length for this bullet in your chamber, starting of course at the minimum load and working from there.
 
jeff270 said:
think you need more crimp.
Loosen the lock ring on the seating die and turn the die clockwise ,a bit at a time till your cartriges fit and thens crew it a wee bit more. This will screw your OAL so you will have to re adjust that as well.
You don't need much bell for jacketed bullets and just enough to help seat lead ones.
Get yourself a bullet puller so you can fix all the mistaked you are about to make.:D
Click to expand...

Not a good idea! You need a taper crimp, not a roll crimp!
45ACP headspaces on the mouth of the case and needs the proper crimp.
Invest in a taper or factory crimp die.
Take care, KD
 
Super_Chicken said:
Yeah I checked the OAL of the brass it's roughly 0.889 so it should be fine. I'll add more crimp later tonight and see how well that helps. As for the bullet puller I think I'll have to get one for sure seeing how many test rounds I've already put together.

Worst case I'll look into that lee die if I end up getting really frustrated. :p
Click to expand...

As others have said, get the Lee Factory Crimp die. I had the same problem, my brother had the same problem, and this die solves this problem.:)
 
1) Pull the crimping feature out of your seating die.
2) Screw your sizing die down ever so slightly and try sizing a piece of brass and drop that into your chamber or get a Dillon chamber checker (you don't need to make completed ammo to chamber check sized brass). If you are loading for more than one pistol or chamber, then the chamber checker is the way to go (they are slightly undersize from most, if not all typical gun chambers).
3) As recommended by others, the Lee factory crimp die is a decent piece of kit that is pretty cheap - use them on their own in their own station. Don't over crimp.
4) The Frontier bullets, while not the best quality out there, are certainly not holding that ammo back.
5) Trim pistol brass? :onCrack::D
 
Jacketed bullets for the 45ACP can vary from .449 to .451 (.450 is the norm)

plated or lead bullets can vary from .449 to .452 and in home cast to .453
the larger diameter is to seal the case (prevent/ reduce leading)

flair your cases just enough to sit a bullet on top --- and as cases get shorter you will have to flair a bit more (mixed range brass varies by length a lot)

Information varies from reloader to reloader on how it should be done.
Some one says to do it this way and some one says do it another way and if you do it that way you will blow up your gun:confused:

this is the way i was taught

for lead bullets in the taper crimp case
(it is best to seat and crimp in two operations (in a progressive you can use two dies)

seat your test bullet so rim is just below hood on barrel (like your picture on factory round picture) Measure length length and write it down it will only be good for that bullet style
(no crimp just remove the flair enough to check it in your barrel)


now for the crimp
back off on the seating stem
measure case at point where the base of the bullet is for example(.470-.471)

the 45acp was designed for a .010" taper crimp (max or nom crimp)
I try to crimp from .005 .010 (varies a small bit from round to round)
Go too far and you will have problems

in the plated bullets if you crimp too much you can cut or chip off the plating

so the case mouth should be
(.470-.471) - .005 = .466 to (min)
(.470-.471) - .010 = .461 (max) your results might vary

Measure your overall length again it should be the same as the first time you measured it.

you can now use this round as a set up round and set the seater stem down

and try to load test round # 2 (keep lowering seater stem until round length is to where you need it

and the best advice I can give you is follow your reloading book

do not reload when you are distracted or tired:eek:
 
jeff270 said:
:RE dixda

I would be suprised if a Hornady 45acp seating die would apply a roll crimp.
Click to expand...

+1. Seat/crimp dies for auto pistol cartridges are generally taper crimp and roll crimp for revolver cartridges.

I do prefer to separate seating and crimp operations, as I think it makes for easier adjustment of either operation separately and there is no extra work when you are using a progressive press.

The original poster's crimp diameter could be a little smaller (.469-.471), but I think that the biggest problem here is that the OAL needs to be adjusted to match the different bullet profile. When you are determining your OAL, don't go chasing a particular number, the correct OAL is what fits.
 
Hi Super

Was your 1F brass produced by you or is it range brass?

Check the diameter of your re-sized cartridges just forward of the head for consistency. As seating is irregular despite consistent COL I'd suspect case bulging near the head may be your problem. This characteristic is most common in range brass.

Check your resizing/depriming die setup. The die and shell plate must not touch but space between them should be minimal. Thus adjusted, your cases should resize smoothly and with consistent effort, especially since you're using all one brand. If a piece of brass offers unusual resistance, ditch it.

Also, make sure your LnL die bushings are locked. They can loosen. Don't ask me how I know :redface:.

Hope this helps.
 
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