Lee Pro 1000 / 9mm Help !!!

hawkentom said:
The problem with my lee loader is squibs.Lots of hassles with the Lee at first ,thought I had it figured out .Took my time I even periodically checked cases for powder,all seemed well.Loaded up 500 38spl. for the wife, averaged about 12 squibs per hundred......not a happy wife............ saving up for a Dillon.
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Squibs in a Lee 1000 (aka no powder) is due to short stroking and improper chain tension.

In 5K+ of .38 I've loaded with the Lee.
I had 12 crushed primers (incomplete primer feed)
I had 15 failures to prime (No primer fed)
I had 3 crushed necks (cockeyed bullets, all my fault)
I had ZERO squibs.
Primer issues? Solved with "extreme agitation modifications" aka O-rings and shoestrings, and refilling the tray before the feeder primer level goes too low for reliable gravity feed :)
 
Some mods I made to make it work better:
-couple extra washers under the back bolt to cant the press forward just slightly.
-teflon lube on a pipe cleaner and run it in the primer feed
-replace chain on powder reset with a snug leather boot lace.
 
I also shimmed the back of my 1000 so it leans forward to help primer feed. I used zip ties on the rear post for agitation of the primer tray . I load from 380 Auto to 45 long colt and 223. My usuall problem is going to fast so as not to FEEL the primer seat but the powder charges are bang on everytime I weigh them. I found powder choice dependent on disk cavity size could be an issue with proper metering but generally only when working up and loading oddball or super light loads.
 
Do yourself a favor and get out of that Lee press. You would be much happier spending a
little bit more money and getting a dillon square deal or a RL550. I used to compete years
ago and had a few friends that were always fighting with their Lee's. One of my friends even found a book on "how to make your Lee 1000 work" which really is pretty sad. You are
running the chance of messing up your gun by shooting a squibbler down your barrel and
another live one right behind it if you do any fast shooting-not really worth it and reloading shoud be fun-not frustrating
 
I have to admit that while I like most all Lee equipment, the Pro1000 is the most user-challenging press they make. Had one in 1989 and cannot believe they are still making it.:confused: Obviously people still buy them.

The Loadmaster is way better for a little more cash, bought mine complete to load .38/357 for US$217.00 plus shipping. Still takes more effort and time to set-up compared to a Dillon 550B.

IMO, the best Lee press for the money is the Classic Turret if you want an easy to set-up and use, trouble-free press that can turn out 150-200 rounds of pistol ammo per hour.

They make fine cast iron single stages like the Classic Cast and the new Classic Cast Breech Lock if single stage is what you prefer.
 
Have you read the instruction's on all the different adjustment's?
Do ONE at a time till you get the feel of it.
There's a lot that happen's with each stroke of the handl, then use the case feeder.
You have to right to the top and right to the bottom with each stroke.If you don't then something isn't being properly done.
 
Kev said:
Some mods I made to make it work better:
-couple extra washers under the back bolt to cant the press forward just slightly.
-teflon lube on a pipe cleaner and run it in the primer feed
-replace chain on powder reset with a snug leather boot lace.
Click to expand...

I did one better than a boot lace...

Lee1000.jpg


I have absolutely no powder issues now!

I also made my own ejection rod that kicks the rounds out a little more forcefully and a longer drop shoot to dump the rounds into a pan...

I'm going to try adding some washers to the back bolt just for the heck of it... As long as I keep the primer feed topped up I don't have too many problems with mine, but any improvement helps.

MB
 
Buy something that works in the first place and you won,t have to spend hours trouble shooting and reengineering.
 
Yeah, I started out with a Lee turret press with auto index and that worked pretty good.
The only reason I upgraded was that it just too long to load the amount of rounds I needed for practice and competition but I must admit that it did work well with relatively few issues. When you have to use shoe laces and heavily modify primer feeders and seating set ups this says something. See if you can find someone with a Dillon for instance and try it out and see how your Lee compares and then go from there.
 
Colin said:
Can we get a clearer picture of the ejection rod you made?
Click to expand...

Sure:

LeeRod.jpg


The end that is clamped down has been ground triangular to better stay in place and indexed in the mounting groove...

...Oh, I lined the chute in UHMD plastic tape to reduce friction and let the cartridges slide freely

Buy something that works in the first place and you won,t have to spend hours trouble shooting and reengineering.
Click to expand...

Where is the fun in that? Anytime someone comments "it needs a little work" I hear "Buy it cheap, learn how it works and fix it..." some people enjoy the challenge more than the results, It's knowing what type you are that matters.

:D
MB
 
Freedom Ventures, thanks for taking the time to explain that... Great !
Will give ya some buisness someday :)
Zuke: Calgary Area
Everyone else, thanks so much, yet again...
I havnt had the time to play with it in 2 weeks now, hopefully this weekend... I think I will keep trying, I'm a stubburn fellow... Take my word for it, I just don't quit till the job is done ;) Anyways, maybe after christmas I will spend 1300 and buy the Dillion... If this hore#### keeps up hahaha, advice such as adding washers and tape and a shoelace to something that should work out of box is a bit concerning to me... Lol
Will keep everyone posted !
 
Semi12 said:
For hedgehog, I'm working with powder(chemicles) and lead, don't wanna absorb that stuff, I also wearing a face sheild in case primer or primer tray goes off.. Better safe than sorry I say !

Thanks all for the advice so far ! But still, what about the proper depths of the dies ? How do I go back to spec ? What is the original depth ? Why the :bigHug::bigHug::bigHug::bigHug: is the depth even adjustible ?
Click to expand...

If you bought this as a 9mm kit, like I did, there should be 3 sets of instructions in the kit, one of which explains exactly how to set up each station in the press. I was so anxious that I missed a few important details and was quickly on the phone with the seller asking questions. In very little time I got it figured out and now love the damn thing, it seems to work well for me, which is why I bought a second complete press set up in .45acp and will but a 3rd if I start reloading a 3rd type of ammo.
 
Rubberdown is right. Spend some time with ALL of the instructions and the user videos from Lee Precision/Titan Reloading. Set it up and then dismantle it, see how it works. Clean it! My powder through die was heavily gummed up with grease that would have resulted in a powder/grease paste mess! Set the dies 100% correctly so that the shell holder is not stopped prematurely before the ram reaches it's top postion.

Feed one case at a time and make a few dummy rounds without primers (useful for pistol function/dry fire training). This will let you set your bullet seater for 1) correct crimp (i.e. die depth in the turret) and 2)bullet depth/OAL, without the 'pressure' of having to make a safe live round. If you seat way too deep, over crimp etc you can just toss those harmless dummy rounds.

No-charges and squibs should be extremely difficult to achieve if the ram/shellholder is able to complete it full vertical travel and the chain is taught when the ram is lowered.

All I did to my primer feed chute was wipe it with powdered graphite. When the primer tray is full watch for 'bridging' as it stops primers moving down the chute. I only get feed issues when there are about the last 10-12 primers in the chute - then I just push them forward with a piece of plastic each time the the case passes the case sensor - this is really not an onerous process for the last few rounds of mnay hundred you may have done in that session.

You will develop a little sequence. One issue I have with the short 9mm cases is that after charging/flaring, as the case indexes at the lat postion for bullet seating, it stops abruptly on the detent ball and this may cause some powder to spill out of the case. I have a 'system' where as the case comes around I have a bullet ready in my fingers and as it comes to the last index I lightly cover it with the one finger to prevent the aforementioned spillage. As it clicks into place I visually inspect the case is properly charged (I always do this) and place the bullet in the case mouth. Every few rounds I glance at the primer feed system to check primer volume or if the primers have bridged over the tray outlet/not running down the chute (just tap the tray in this case). Its quick and when you are in 'the zone' it goes fast.

The LP 1000 is not a top flight machine and it has its quirks. However it is not as bad as some want you to believe. Learn to use it and you will crank them out, you just need to concentrate.

Oh yes, I also extend my cartridge drop chute but 3/4" so it drops the completed cartridges more reliably into a plastic tub).
 
wow you guys are helping out with a 2 year old problem..............I think he fixed it just before the 2011 new years celebrations..........just sayin'
 
Ya yodave, I just commented because it was up at the top of the page, never even thought to look at the start date of the thread....

On the bright side, I learned a new trick, I'll be adding a shoe lace or zip tie to my machine to help with the primer feeding ;)
 
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