New Gevarm E1's.....

[Can-down]

Standard or non-hyper?

Today we have,
Standard ( sub sonic basicly)
high
and hyper

At this point I'm not to worried about the receiver and more wondering how to get the thing to eject!
I really didn't notice any battering going on shooting high velocity ammo yesterday but my spring is fresh and there appears to be a buffer of sorts at the rear though it's hard to tell exactly what it's made of.

 

[Johnny Canada]

Well, just went out with the spring guide in the bolt and it performed worse, if you could believe that, about 1/3 shots with the factory mag and every shot with the aftermarket mag.

Flipped it back around and got about the same performance as yesterday, so basically, I have a gun that I can sorta use for a few shots before it gets frustrating, and I have this funny feeling that if I try to send it back to Trade-ex they'll tell me to go play in traffic.

Not to mention trying to deal with WGP on the AM mag.

Bah.

 

[Can-down]

Well with WGP I'd guess you are s**t out of luck just based on their tone while making sales..... but Trade EX has a fairly good reputation.
To be honest if today's typically high velocity ammo was not good for this gun I'd expect Trade Ex to be aware of that and too pass that info along to the buyer!
These new old stock guns came with no manual.... if there are indeed idiosyncrasies and things to avoid with this model Gevarm it would be nice to know!
Even though my bore is pitted I was willing to live with it if it shot well.....it doesn't shoot well at all.
I have not talked with Trade Ex yet because I'm still hoping to get this gun to function properly but if I can't get it to run I will be contacting them.

 

[Can-down]

Well, just went out with the spring guide in the bolt and it performed worse, if you could believe that, about 1/3 shots with the factory mag and every shot with the aftermarket mag.

Flipped it back around and got about the same performance as yesterday, so basically, I have a gun that I can sorta use for a few shots before it gets frustrating, and I have this funny feeling that if I try to send it back to Trade-ex they'll tell me to go play in traffic.

Not to mention trying to deal with WGP on the AM mag.

Bah.

The mags have a lot of play fore and aft in the mag well..... I wonder if holding the mag to the rear so that the top is held forward would help?

Johnny, were you able to use your sights to hit a target?

 

[Johnny Canada]

The mags have a lot of play fore and aft in the mag well..... I wonder if holding the mag to the rear so that the top is held forward would help?

Johnny, were you able to use your sights to hit a target?

Never even tried. I was just pointing it down range and seeing if it would cycle, and then I got pissed and left before even trying to make a real shot.

 

[jackpine]

Nothing on the outside of the mag and I am way too gunshy to try and force the baseplate off to see if there's anything inside.

I wonder if it's the same company, because WGP made an extra obvious point about saying "YOU DO KNOW THESE REQUIRE GUNSMITH FITTING, RIGHT?"
In the same vein as someone saying THIS CONVERSATION IS BEING RECORDED.

re: high velocity ammo, I'm almost positive HV will be fine, minimags and the like, but jackpine is suggesting HYPER velocity stuff, like stingers, are playing with fire. I may be incorrect. I definitely had the best luck with minimags out of the 5 different ammo types I tried.


Re: jackpine: how about ejection issues? Is that just a cross gevarms bear? Did we get a bad batch?

First;
As mentioned in another post to this thread about various types of .22 l.r. ammo,high velocity (up to 1200fps) is NOT the same as hyper velocity ( 1300 fps and up). Minimags fall somewhere in between 1200-1400 fps if I remember correctly from my chrono testing at the range and out of my Gevarm.
Second;
The only ftf and fte are almost always due to a dirty reciever area, magazine and foremost dirty cheap ammo. If experiencing these failures, the only real remedy is clean it and change ammo until you find a brand that leaves the least residue. I first got my E1 (early model) in 1986 and just by chance used the old Federal Lightning high velocity ammo and the gun loved it to the point in fact that I could go through more than 300 rounds before the action got sluggish and the mag lips caked up. This ammo also was THE most accurate. When I did my job it would with boring regularity put all my shots inside 1" @ 50 yards from a rest. When I hunted N.W. Ont. for moose and got a break to hunt grouse, the Gevarm was my head-shoot only chicken gun and it never let me down. Never. In fact the 20 round mag I have would give a hiccup if the wrong ammo was stuffed into it. But the Lightning ammo fed all 20 like it was designed for it from day 1. And I have chrono tested a good variety of ammo from sub-sonics to the high velocity stuff. The sub-sonic stuff lacks the oompf required to fully cycle the bolt but that's another story for another venue.

 

[jackpine]

Standard or non-hyper?

Today we have,
Standard ( sub sonic basicly)
high
and hyper

At this point I'm not to worried about the receiver and more wondering how to get the thing to eject!
I really didn't notice any battering going on shooting high velocity ammo yesterday but my spring is fresh and there appears to be a buffer of sorts at the rear though it's hard to tell exactly what it's made of.

I'm sorry but you are mistaken here. standard velocity .22 l.r. is rated at 1000fps -1200 fps. depending on bullet weight and barrel length. Sub-sonics on the other hand are projectiles travelling at or under the sound barrier depending on elevation but the barrier to break the speed of sound hovers at 700 fps. My years of chrono testing bear this out in general to what manufacturers claim them to be.

 

[Can-down]

I'm sorry but you are mistaken here. standard velocity .22 l.r. is rated at 1000fps -1200 fps. depending on bullet weight and barrel length. Sub-sonics on the other hand are projectiles travelling at or under the sound barrier depending on elevation but the barrier to break the speed of sound hovers at 700 fps. My years of chrono testing bear this out in general to what manufacturers claim them to be.

The speed of sound is the distance traveled during a unit of time by a sound wave propagating through an elastic medium. In dry air at 20 °C (68 °F), the speed of sound is 343.2 metres per second (1,126 ft/s). This is 1,236 kilometres per hour (768 mph), or about one kilometer in three seconds or approximately one mile in five seconds.

I thought it was around 1100fps but the above is copied from wikipedia....

 

[Johnny Canada]

Well, just got an email from tradeex saying they'll accept the return, of course im going to get hosed on shipping it back.

Argh I wish I hadn't destroyed the box.

 

[Can-down]

Well, just got an email from tradeex saying they'll accept the return, of course im going to get hosed on shipping it back.

Argh I wish I hadn't destroyed the box.

That box was way to big! Break the gun in half wrap the two pieces well with something to protect them both then tape them together so they don't rattle around.
Make your own box with cardboard and use extra cardboard at the ends and newspaper bunched up to fill voids......should be easy to ship for less then $20

 

[jackpine]

The speed of sound is the distance traveled during a unit of time by a sound wave propagating through an elastic medium. In dry air at 20 °C (68 °F), the speed of sound is 343.2 metres per second (1,126 ft/s). This is 1,236 kilometres per hour (768 mph), or about one kilometer in three seconds or approximately one mile in five seconds.

I thought it was around 1100fps but the above is copied from wikipedia....

Did this quote give an elevation for these values? I rather doubt they were obtained at sea level as the sound barrier increases with elevation as does velocity. Sea level is the standard to which the sound barrier is tested.

 

[Can-down]

Did this quote give an elevation for these values? I rather doubt they were obtained at sea level as the sound barrier increases with elevation as does velocity. Sea level is the standard to which the sound barrier is tested.

Try google.

Your estimate of 700fps is close to the speed in miles per hour....

 

[jackpine]

you are correct

Try google.

Your estimate of 700fps is close to the speed in miles per hour....

I did a search on Bing and got virtually the same as you did but some odd reason I distinctly remember 700 F P S being tossed around in my science classes (many moons ago). It's actually a moot point for the discussion of the Gevarms but thanks for the clarification as I'd always prefer to be corrected once rather than be incorrect on a regular basis. The only thing that still is unanswered even from the search is the issue of elevation as it applies to the formula. But come to think of it most reloading manuals illustrate how velocity is affected by elevation and the resultant sound barrier should coincide to some extent.
Thanks for the clarification

 

[diemaco]

I did a search on Bing and got virtually the same as you did but some odd reason I distinctly remember 700 F P S being tossed around in my science classes (many moons ago). It's actually a moot point for the discussion of the Gevarms but thanks for the clarification as I'd always prefer to be corrected once rather than be incorrect on a regular basis. The only thing that still is unanswered even from the search is the issue of elevation as it applies to the formula. But come to think of it most reloading manuals illustrate how velocity is affected by elevation and the resultant sound barrier should coincide to some extent.
Thanks for the clarification

Elevation has no direct effect. Temperature & pressure do (they vary with altitude though).



To keep the subject on the Gevarm, who noticed the one on the EE for "slightly" more than the dealers were asking as soon as these things started to ship?

 

[Can-down]

Elevation has no direct effect. Temperature & pressure do (they vary with altitude though).



To keep the subject on the Gevarm, who noticed the one on the EE for "slightly" more than the dealers were asking as soon as these things started to ship?

Maybe his worked and was rust free.....

 

[Griffoneur]

I went to the range today.
Loaded up the mag with 20 American Eagle, squeezed off all without a hitch... no FTE or FTF.
Loaded up 20 CCI rapid fired smooth as silk.
Shot another 60 rounds for a total of 100... mag worked well. Rifle went bang every time.

Shot from benchrest at 50M, rifle shoots 3" high at 50 yds. with sight at lowest adjustment.

Two options:

1. File down rear sight notch in blade; or
2. File down the last notch in the elevator bar

If I trim as No.1, I will be able to use the preset notches to sight for 100, 200, 300yds...
If I trim as No.2, I will be sighted for 50ds on the last step, then I imagine 150 or 200yds on the next notch up.

I can't see squat at 100 yds without a scope anyhow, 50yds with iron sights is about my max limit.

Reading other post it seems others have issue with shooting too high as well. So what to do, No.1 or No.2 solution???

I don't plan on scoping the rifle.

 

[Johnny Canada]

I went to the range today.
Loaded up the mag with 20 American Eagle, squeezed off all without a hitch... no FTE or FTF.
Loaded up 20 CCI rapid fired smooth as silk.
Shot another 60 rounds for a total of 100... mag worked well. Rifle went bang every time.

Shot from benchrest at 50M, rifle shoots 3" high at 50 yds. with sight at lowest adjustment.

Two options:

1. File down rear sight notch in blade; or
2. File down the last notch in the elevator bar

If I trim as No.1, I will be able to use the preset notches to sight for 100, 200, 300yds...
If I trim as No.2, I will be sighted for 50ds on the last step, then I imagine 150 or 200yds on the next notch up.

I can't see squat at 100 yds without a scope anyhow, 50yds with iron sights is about my max limit.

Reading other post it seems others have issue with shooting too high as well. So what to do, No.1 or No.2 solution???

I don't plan on scoping the rifle.

I am super jealous. I wanted mine to be that awesome.

 

[recce]

Never even tried. I was just pointing it down range and seeing if it would cycle, and then I got pissed and left before even trying to make a real shot.

The E1 was my first rifle I got when I was 12 and the indent in the mag was worn (it was used, I'm not that old). The only way I could get it to fire every time was to push the mag straight up from the bottom, not at a cant, but straight up.

Eventually the I got the indent soldered and re-worked. That rifle got sold about 25 years ago and I picked another one up last year. No problem with the 8 or 20 mags with this one but then it didn't seem to have been fired as much as my first one.

It seems to me that over time the indent in the mag gets worn or peened a bit due to the way it is held in the mag well and the bolt riding over the way it does.

 

[Can-down]

I went to the range today.
Loaded up the mag with 20 American Eagle, squeezed off all without a hitch... no FTE or FTF.
Loaded up 20 CCI rapid fired smooth as silk.
Shot another 60 rounds for a total of 100... mag worked well. Rifle went bang every time.

Shot from benchrest at 50M, rifle shoots 3" high at 50 yds. with sight at lowest adjustment.

Two options:

1. File down rear sight notch in blade; or
2. File down the last notch in the elevator bar

If I trim as No.1, I will be able to use the preset notches to sight for 100, 200, 300yds...
If I trim as No.2, I will be sighted for 50ds on the last step, then I imagine 150 or 200yds on the next notch up.

I can't see squat at 100 yds without a scope anyhow, 50yds with iron sights is about my max limit.

Reading other post it seems others have issue with shooting too high as well. So what to do, No.1 or No.2 solution???

I don't plan on scoping the rifle.

#### Griff, It sounds like you got the best one! No rust and silky smooth perfomance! Did you hand pick it?

The third option is to take the metal off the bottom of the elevator where it rests on the barrel..... I'd be ok with a few inches high at 50 mine is a few feet high!

Go buy a lottery ticket!

 

[can14]

The 20 round factory magazines that I use in my E2 had to be adjusted with a rubber hammer to make the feed lips work better. Light taps to make them tighter. Mag goes into rifle better also. My mags were all a tight fit before that. I found that 18 rounds also work better. Mag springs are not the best. HK 270 20rd mags are a way better design and have a great spring.