Must be an Ontario thing. Seriously, I was just reading in some article from 2008 that the DBM was being developed to meet demand in michigan and canada. lol.
I haven't seen a single on in Alberta and I'm constantly in stores pawing the wares...
Weatherby Vanguard Synthetic
- Thread starter warnniklz
- Start date
Must be an Ontario thing. Seriously, I was just reading in some article from 2008 that the DBM was being developed to meet demand in michigan and canada. lol.
I haven't seen a single on in Alberta and I'm constantly in stores pawing the wares...
that's too bad! I find it hard to believe there are more of these DBM models though since they're only available in .270 and 30-06...
The good and proper Vanguard is available in anything from .223 to 300WM...
Maybe you just see more of them on the shelves because people don't buy them
The good and proper Vanguard is available in anything from .223 to 300WM...
Maybe you just see more of them on the shelves because people don't buy them
Well I picked up a Weatherby Vanguard chambered in .30_06 springfield. I topped it off with Leupold rings and basses with a Bushnell banner 3-9x40mm scope to get me through spring bear season. Overall I personally like the looks and feel of the rifle.
Starting at the back(butt) of the rifle is the recoil pad. It's fairly squishy but there is a space between the pad and the stock. I'm not sure how it's connected. I'm wondering if there's rubber anchors into the stock or if it's glued or what. I'll continue using it unless it falls off, then I'll replace it.
The action is pretty smooth. Empty, I can cycle the action 43 times in 30 seconds. My roommate timed me and this was more for fun. He only managed 39 in 30 seconds. When I push the bolt in and close the handle to the first notch, you touch the trigger and the bolt closes.
My rifle came with a detachable magazine kit installed. Therefore it's a plastic trigger guard and magazine. The magazine holds 3 rounds and the cartridges sit in line, instead of an offset alignment. The magazine has 3 small holes in the side with numbers 1, 2 and 3 to indicate how many cartridges are in the magazine. The DM kit has a plastic clip that holds the magazine in. I find it doesn't hold the magazine in tight. This every once in awhile causes problems when picking up the second round. If you push up the magazine tight and hold it there, this eliminates this problem. However doing so causes added resistance on the bolt sliding. The magazine rubs against the bolt causing the action to not be quite as slick.
The barrel is a black matte, which I like. I'm not a fan of shiny barrels reflecting sun light. The barrel however is not free floating and I've noticed when the barrel heats up shot placement starts to creep. This is something I will have fixed over the summer(along with a new scope).
I was shooting 150 grain hornady SST
10 degrees Celsius
wind was calm
shots were at 100 yards
here's the picture (see if it works)
I've put 30 rounds through it as of april 10 2011. The 3 shots in the picture were my last three shots (out of the 18 I shot that day). With more time and tweaking I should be able to tighten up my groupings.
All in all for what I got it for I'm fairly happy with it. I'll be packing it everywhere for the next little bit and hopefully I can christen it this spring.
PS. I named her Selena. As in Selena Kyle... she wears a black suit and is lethal
Starting at the back(butt) of the rifle is the recoil pad. It's fairly squishy but there is a space between the pad and the stock. I'm not sure how it's connected. I'm wondering if there's rubber anchors into the stock or if it's glued or what. I'll continue using it unless it falls off, then I'll replace it.
The action is pretty smooth. Empty, I can cycle the action 43 times in 30 seconds. My roommate timed me and this was more for fun. He only managed 39 in 30 seconds. When I push the bolt in and close the handle to the first notch, you touch the trigger and the bolt closes.
My rifle came with a detachable magazine kit installed. Therefore it's a plastic trigger guard and magazine. The magazine holds 3 rounds and the cartridges sit in line, instead of an offset alignment. The magazine has 3 small holes in the side with numbers 1, 2 and 3 to indicate how many cartridges are in the magazine. The DM kit has a plastic clip that holds the magazine in. I find it doesn't hold the magazine in tight. This every once in awhile causes problems when picking up the second round. If you push up the magazine tight and hold it there, this eliminates this problem. However doing so causes added resistance on the bolt sliding. The magazine rubs against the bolt causing the action to not be quite as slick.
The barrel is a black matte, which I like. I'm not a fan of shiny barrels reflecting sun light. The barrel however is not free floating and I've noticed when the barrel heats up shot placement starts to creep. This is something I will have fixed over the summer(along with a new scope).
I was shooting 150 grain hornady SST
10 degrees Celsius
wind was calm
shots were at 100 yards
here's the picture (see if it works)
I've put 30 rounds through it as of april 10 2011. The 3 shots in the picture were my last three shots (out of the 18 I shot that day). With more time and tweaking I should be able to tighten up my groupings.
All in all for what I got it for I'm fairly happy with it. I'll be packing it everywhere for the next little bit and hopefully I can christen it this spring.
PS. I named her Selena. As in Selena Kyle... she wears a black suit and is lethal
How much are you waiting before shots?
I have a Vanguard in 308 and wait around 2 minutes before shots; I have never seen the POI changing as a results of the barrel hitting up.
Also, Vanguards have sort of a reputation for liking a small point of pressure, instead of being completely free floated.
Enjoy! Vanguards are definitely one of the best values out there.
I have a Vanguard in 308 and wait around 2 minutes before shots; I have never seen the POI changing as a results of the barrel hitting up.
Also, Vanguards have sort of a reputation for liking a small point of pressure, instead of being completely free floated.
Enjoy! Vanguards are definitely one of the best values out there.
Thanks... yeah my shots are short follow ups. After I let it cool for a moment she settles down again. I don't doubt there's a pressure point. I will be taking it to Mr. Gun Smith have him look it over and deal with such problems.
Oh yeah I can't even slip a piece of paper between the barrel and stock.
You're not supposed to be able to. A properly bedded barrel is just as good if not better than a free floated one. Free floating is a step manufacturer use to produce a cheaper rifle which can still shoot accurately. A properly bedded barrel is preferable for a number of reasons. My stainless vanguard shoots 1/3 MOA with everything stock except a slightly tuned trigger which wasn't even necessary.
I took a 6'6" Spring bear at 450 meters with my 257wby in a Vanguard this rifle is a lazer I have NO reason to touch anything on it even the triggers decent! A matter of fact I got rid of my 30 cals cause this rifle kills anything it touchs.
My Vanguard came with an awesome trigger right out of the box. It's just over 3 pounds, but very crisp. I definitely prefer the standard blued/synthetic configuration with floorplate. I've heard of guys bedding them and free floating the barrels in cheap aftermarket stocks with excellent results.
I've replaced the banner scope (I knew what it was before I even put it on... but had it laying around) with a weaver 40/44 3-9x40 scope. I did this last May before my trip up to central BC for bears.
Got this 5.5' blackie. Unfortunately not the biggest seen that day. But the Vanguard had no problems knocking him over.
Idcurrie:
You are truly very lucky to have a stock rifle shoot that good!
How many concecutive groups have you shot that measures .347"(1/3MOA) or better?
A barrel that is "properly" bedded doesnt nessessarily mean NOT free floating.
The properties of metal dictates the need for "normal" free floating.
All barrels will change as they heat up from successive shots "ALL BARRELS".
The better/best barrels just change less.
The more intrinsic structural stress a barrel blank has, the more it will deviate as it warms up.
That is why allot of manufacturers claim to stress relieve thier barrels.
When you have a tight bedded, or a pressure point between the action and the end of the barrel, you induce a physical influence. It will effect the barrels harmonics/movement. And it will effect how the heat from successive rounds being fired affect the barrels ability to group well.
On occasion (rarely, but it does happen) the rifle will shoot better pressure bedded. This is likely the case where a barrel is properly stress relieved and it doesnt 'walk' much when heated. Its great to get this situation!
But from a physics stand point, a free floated barrel is allowed to vibrate unrestricted. Therefore normally more precise/accurate.
When metal gets hot, stresses start to move things, hot metal is softer, more influenced by deflecting pressures.
If you ever go to shooting matches where some of the best shooters in the world compete, I have NEVER, EVER seen a barrel that is "not" free floating!
If the most experienced, and talented shooters do it, chances are we should "try" it too. Dont you think?
Law of averages sort of thing.
I just wanted to inform you of the things others have taught me over the years.
Learning is fun!
Have fun you gunnutz! And straight shoot'in!
You are truly very lucky to have a stock rifle shoot that good!
How many concecutive groups have you shot that measures .347"(1/3MOA) or better?
A barrel that is "properly" bedded doesnt nessessarily mean NOT free floating.
The properties of metal dictates the need for "normal" free floating.
All barrels will change as they heat up from successive shots "ALL BARRELS".
The better/best barrels just change less.
The more intrinsic structural stress a barrel blank has, the more it will deviate as it warms up.
That is why allot of manufacturers claim to stress relieve thier barrels.
When you have a tight bedded, or a pressure point between the action and the end of the barrel, you induce a physical influence. It will effect the barrels harmonics/movement. And it will effect how the heat from successive rounds being fired affect the barrels ability to group well.
On occasion (rarely, but it does happen) the rifle will shoot better pressure bedded. This is likely the case where a barrel is properly stress relieved and it doesnt 'walk' much when heated. Its great to get this situation!
But from a physics stand point, a free floated barrel is allowed to vibrate unrestricted. Therefore normally more precise/accurate.
When metal gets hot, stresses start to move things, hot metal is softer, more influenced by deflecting pressures.
If you ever go to shooting matches where some of the best shooters in the world compete, I have NEVER, EVER seen a barrel that is "not" free floating!
If the most experienced, and talented shooters do it, chances are we should "try" it too. Dont you think?
Law of averages sort of thing.
I just wanted to inform you of the things others have taught me over the years.
Learning is fun!
Have fun you gunnutz! And straight shoot'in!
DTHunter, very well said.
I have glass bedded most of my rifles, as I see needed. Now, just because they are glass bedded, does not mean the fore end of the stock is touching the bottom of the barrel for the full length from the reciever forwards. They are still free floating. The reason I have done the glass bedding is for balance.
Some synthetic stocks will have a solid inlet, others will be more or less hollow underneath the barrel, with a solid area surrounding where your sling stud is.
In order to keep a free floating gap between my barrel and the epoxy, I just ran 4 layers of packaging tape down the metal, on the bottom side of the barrel, forward of the front lug, Where as I left the reciever bare with the release agent.
Also, I own a Weatherby, therefor I am not here to hi-jack this thread with my non sense.
I have glass bedded most of my rifles, as I see needed. Now, just because they are glass bedded, does not mean the fore end of the stock is touching the bottom of the barrel for the full length from the reciever forwards. They are still free floating. The reason I have done the glass bedding is for balance.
Some synthetic stocks will have a solid inlet, others will be more or less hollow underneath the barrel, with a solid area surrounding where your sling stud is.
In order to keep a free floating gap between my barrel and the epoxy, I just ran 4 layers of packaging tape down the metal, on the bottom side of the barrel, forward of the front lug, Where as I left the reciever bare with the release agent.
Also, I own a Weatherby, therefor I am not here to hi-jack this thread with my non sense.
Hard to say. I'm not made of money and only do a few groups with center fire when I go out. Most of my shooting is with rimfire.
I remember shooting 4 3 shot groups with this type of ammo when I first learned that the rifle liked them and they were all roughly the same size.
So it seems to hold up quite well at around 12 shots. I remember that that barrel was quite warm to the touch, such that I removed the bolt to help with cooling.
Sorry, but your statement is completely false and misleading. A free floating barrel has absolutely NOTHING to do with bedding a rifle's action.
A rifle's action is bedded to the stock to provide consistent and even contact between the mating surfaces to help eliminate the possibility of the action from moving/flexing in the stock.
Free floating a barrel ensures than no part of the barrel is making direct contact with the forearm of the stock so that the barrel is free to vibrate without obstruction once the rifle has been fired.
