Tried out my m1919 the other day with steel cased mfs 308 ammo. shot 300 to 400 rounds flawlessly with both belts and links working fine. Put the gun away until the next day. Set the headspace again but this time the gun would only shoot a couple of rounds at a time before jamming. The bolt would fail to eject the empty shell or would try to push the fresh shell in slightly at a right angle and the tip of the bullet wouldnt go into the vhamber. Eventually our day.ended when a shell jammed in the barrel. Maybe due to the mfs steel cases shells.building up lacquer in t he ch amber. Need help!
Need m1919 help
- Thread starter gutinater
- Start date
problems
It would not hurt to really clean the chamber and the barrel. However, I see that you did one thing in between shooting sessions---reset the headspace!
When you were having problems, did you try setting the headspace back to the setting of the day before and firing the gun? Do you load your own belts, or were these original?
Clean and lubricate the gun lightly, check the headspace, and try again.
.
It would not hurt to really clean the chamber and the barrel. However, I see that you did one thing in between shooting sessions---reset the headspace!
When you were having problems, did you try setting the headspace back to the setting of the day before and firing the gun? Do you load your own belts, or were these original?
Clean and lubricate the gun lightly, check the headspace, and try again.
.
links or belts??
mine jams with links
id suspect headspace
these guns like lots of lube
check top cover and feed system
mine has only ever jammed like yours due to headspace
ive run 500rnds stoping only to load 2nd belt with no jams (8x63 swedish)
mine jams with links
id suspect headspace
these guns like lots of lube
check top cover and feed system
mine has only ever jammed like yours due to headspace
ive run 500rnds stoping only to load 2nd belt with no jams (8x63 swedish)
Headspace
Again: You changed the headspace after it was working good.
Now, it does not work.
If it worked before and you changed the headspace, then the obvious thing is that you have caused this condition yourself by changing the headspace.
.
Again: You changed the headspace after it was working good.
Now, it does not work.
If it worked before and you changed the headspace, then the obvious thing is that you have caused this condition yourself by changing the headspace.
.
stencollector
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
#### the gun, then pull the action back again about 2". Screw the barrel all the way in. Try and let the action forward. It should not close all the way. Screw the barrel out one click. Try closing. Screw barrel out one click....try closing. After about 4-10 clicks, the action will close. Open it 1 or two inches again, and give it 3 more clicks. Shoot the gun. If it still acts up you can add another click or two...add them one at a time.
Another problem that will act like headspace is that the little ramp on the bottom inside of the gun can work excessively loose. Make sure that the screw holding it in is loctited in. Do not stake the screw to the body of the gun though. If you do stake it, do it to the inside of the gun. (screw to the ramp).
Also make sure the barrel jacket and the barrel bearing (the muzzle cone) are on reasonably tight. My 1919 was missing the little screw that held the jacket on.
Another problem that will act like headspace is that the little ramp on the bottom inside of the gun can work excessively loose. Make sure that the screw holding it in is loctited in. Do not stake the screw to the body of the gun though. If you do stake it, do it to the inside of the gun. (screw to the ramp).
Also make sure the barrel jacket and the barrel bearing (the muzzle cone) are on reasonably tight. My 1919 was missing the little screw that held the jacket on.
Thanks alot guys for the help. Especially Stencollector. My gun is missing the screw to tighten the barrel jacket, what did you use for a replacement? Also that ramp in the inside of my gun was loose but If I tighten up the screw in the bottom of the gun with an allen key any more than hand tight its like something binds inside the action and the bolt doesnt want to ride smoothly or even fully close. Whats the deal with that? The screw that came with my m1919 (which i bought used) has a hex key head that is not flush with the bottom of the reciever and not the flat crew driver head type screw that ive seen on the internet and in the parts manuals that sits flush with the bottom of the reciever. Could the screw that came with my gun be too long and somehow when its tightened in completely its hitting the bottom of the bolt causing it to bind?
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stencollector
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
I had an original in my can of spare parts for the jacket screw. If your screw is missing, check the jacket and make sure it does not wobble on the trunnion. My original jacket had stretched and bell mouthed at the threads. It is likely important that the jacket is reasonably tight on the threads because if it is hanging downwards, then the barrel and barrel extension are somewhat contorted in the receiver. I am not sure if Marstar has that screw, since I don't see a parts schematic to match to their parts on their website. You may have to have someone in the US procure you a suitable similar screw and mail it up to you.
Seems like this may have been a part left off of more than one TNW gun. Don't get me wrong, I love my TNW, but they were not always good to go right out of the box. Towards the end of their sales, Marstar would test fire and tweak the guns as required to ensure customer satisfaction.
As to the ramp for the "block, breech blocking", it is supposed to be slightly loose. There was a modification on the canadian guns to mill away the area around the head of the screw (at the bottom of the receiver casing) so that guys did not stake the screw at that point, since it was supposed to float. Instead, the screw is supposed to be staked at the top of the ramp. I went with loctite as well. The screw actually fell out of mine during a competition. I will not have that happen again. If memory serves, you could fit a feeler gage between the ramp and the receiver, but I do not remembr the spec. I think it may have been 10 thou, but that seems quite loose to me. Perhaps one of the weapons techs can answer this question, as I am away from my ref manuals for the next few months.
The use of allen key screws instead of the flat head ones was an Isreali thing. If I recall, we did go to allen key screws on the feed guide bracket for the C5A1, but not really anywhere else. The higher head on the one you are talking about under the gun would be good to prevent someone from erroneously staking it in place in the manner I previously described.
Hope I wasn't too long winded in all this.
Seems like this may have been a part left off of more than one TNW gun. Don't get me wrong, I love my TNW, but they were not always good to go right out of the box. Towards the end of their sales, Marstar would test fire and tweak the guns as required to ensure customer satisfaction.
As to the ramp for the "block, breech blocking", it is supposed to be slightly loose. There was a modification on the canadian guns to mill away the area around the head of the screw (at the bottom of the receiver casing) so that guys did not stake the screw at that point, since it was supposed to float. Instead, the screw is supposed to be staked at the top of the ramp. I went with loctite as well. The screw actually fell out of mine during a competition. I will not have that happen again. If memory serves, you could fit a feeler gage between the ramp and the receiver, but I do not remembr the spec. I think it may have been 10 thou, but that seems quite loose to me. Perhaps one of the weapons techs can answer this question, as I am away from my ref manuals for the next few months.
The use of allen key screws instead of the flat head ones was an Isreali thing. If I recall, we did go to allen key screws on the feed guide bracket for the C5A1, but not really anywhere else. The higher head on the one you are talking about under the gun would be good to prevent someone from erroneously staking it in place in the manner I previously described.
Hope I wasn't too long winded in all this.
Thank you so much my friend, you've answered all my questions. Next step is to get out of the city again with it and try to get her purring again.
http://s791.photobucket.com/albums/yy200/gutinater/?action=view¤t=video-2011-04-23-20-09-07.mp4
http://s791.photobucket.com/albums/yy200/gutinater/?action=view¤t=video-2011-04-23-20-09-07.mp4
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stencollector is bang on with the head space
figure it out then WRITE it down!!!! I shoot 8mm 8x63 30.06 and .308 in mine each one is different
for instance for 8x63 swedish i go 8 clicks out from when the bolt can close after a belt or 2 rapid fire it needs another click
ive yet to find and ammo it would not feed from cloth belts links jam in my gun
figure it out then WRITE it down!!!! I shoot 8mm 8x63 30.06 and .308 in mine each one is different
for instance for 8x63 swedish i go 8 clicks out from when the bolt can close after a belt or 2 rapid fire it needs another click
ive yet to find and ammo it would not feed from cloth belts links jam in my gun
Took the gun out again. Set the headspace. Tried two different barrels. It keeps failing to extract the spent shell from the chamber or pushing the fresh shell in sideways. Took a look at the bolt face and there is a shell rim sized chunk missing from one side of the t slot right where the shell is supposed to be held to the bolt face. Is this normal or is my bolt damaged?
Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic but if you look at the right hand side of the bolt t-slot theres a chunk missing. Can any m1919 owners confirm my bolt should not be like this?
Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic but if you look at the right hand side of the bolt t-slot theres a chunk missing. Can any m1919 owners confirm my bolt should not be like this?
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I am having a similar problem with mine, minus the FTE's.
The feed pawl is pulling every 5th or 6th round in at an angle, so the bolt will not catch it and it will shoot dry.
I will check my bolt tonight or tomorrow.
Well it sucks the bolt is damaged but at least i know what the problem is. I wonder if i caused it by shooting the gun with incorrect headspace, of if the metal was just fatigued from age? Any gunnutz want to sell an extra semi auto bolt? If i purchase a marstar bolt, which I assume is for a full auto m1919, can it be converted over to semi-auto easily?
stencollector
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
Hopefully Marstar can help you. Otherwise, to modify a regular full auto bolt is not a easy task. The bolt must be disassembled, heated to remove the case hardening, and material to be removed from he right side to allow it o fit into the receiver. The sear slot must also be widened to allow for the wider sear of the semi auto. Then the bolt has to be heat treated again.
Sorry about your bad luck. After a successful day at the range, it sucks being grounded for a while.
Sorry about your bad luck. After a successful day at the range, it sucks being grounded for a while.
