How accurate is the rifle with that mount welded?. And where you get it?... Im very interested.
SKS: Optics, sights & mounts.... update feb 16, 2010
- Thread starter Curtton
- Start date
How accurate is the rifle with that mount welded?. And where you get it?... Im very interested.
lot more accurate compared to a dust cover mount, anybody with a tig welder can weld the mount plate on the reciever, and for the plate and the scope go to ww w.eastwave.ca/index.html you'll find everything you need.
With this kind of scope you can remove it to load and replace it without losing zero.
me i love it!
With this kind of scope you can remove it to load and replace it without losing zero.
me i love it!
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If you are into this type of mount and POSP scopes,here is a drill and tap version. In my opinion any type of welding on a rifle receiver is a last resort.
http://interammo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=52
http://interammo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=52
- Location
- the EE section in Calgary
forgive me if this is a stupid question but i haven't been able to find a definitive answer on the net...
if i mount a POSP to my SKS using a mosin mount, are they typically offset to the left a bit to still allow for loading stripper clips in through the top?
if i mount a POSP to my SKS using a mosin mount, are they typically offset to the left a bit to still allow for loading stripper clips in through the top?
POSP and Mosin sniper mounts are different. You will need to use either an AK or SVD style rail on your SKS. There are a few weaver rails that reach over to bore centerline but the sidemount POSP scopes will be offset and allow the use of stripper clips
- Location
- the EE section in Calgary
thanks, thats what i needed to know and more!
Thanks for centralizing the info, Curtton.
For the record, I bought my sks with a receiver cover scope mount and 4x scope already attached. As many others have noted, the thing could not hold zero at all. I just replaced the receiver cover with an OEM receiver cover and after reading this thread will likely drill and tap a Weaver Converta mount to the frame.
For the record, I bought my sks with a receiver cover scope mount and 4x scope already attached. As many others have noted, the thing could not hold zero at all. I just replaced the receiver cover with an OEM receiver cover and after reading this thread will likely drill and tap a Weaver Converta mount to the frame.
leannejason
Regular
- Location
- Fraser Valley
sks with scope
Screws into a receiver extension which locked in by the takedown lever.
Sorry to bewilder the "all dustcover mounts are loose because it says so on the Internets" chorus.
The L-shaped bit on the left is held in place by the takedown pin, an adjustment screw makes it a solid extension of the receiver. The screw with the big cross head screws into the L-shaped bit, securing the replacement receiver cover.
Edit:
A similar thing is the 1/4-20 tap through the takedown hole, and use a bolt:
That way the mount is bolted to the receiver.
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- Location
- Alberta Free State
Screws into a receiver extension which locked in by the takedown lever.
Sorry to bewilder the "all dustcover mounts are loose because it says so on the Internets" chorus.
I may well be half-blind, ignorant, or some combination of those, and I am new to the SKS. However, having stared at these two pictures for a considerable length of time, I cannot figure out at all what I am looking at in the top one.
The bottom one appears to be a Fitco dustcover scope mount with some kind of honking big screw or knob attached to the rear end. I assume it is to this knob the O.P. is referring when he says,
"Screws into a receiver extension which locked in by the takedown lever.
Sorry to bewilder the "all dustcover mounts are loose because it says so on the Internets" chorus."
My best guess about the bottom pic is that the knob either screws a bolt into some piece added to the receiver, or tightens the dustcover mount against the forward receiver "ears". The exact mechanism is not clear to me - am I missing something blatantly obvious?
Perhaps someone can enlighten me as to what I'm looking at in the top pic, and for that matter if my guess about the bottom pic is correct.
More details on the whole concept and execution would be most appreciated.
I wouldn't mind if there was an improvement that could be made to dustcover scope mounts to make their removal/replacement more repeatable. I have one with a compact 4 power scope on it. The replacement dustcover fits extremely tightly to the rifle (a fair amount of cautious filing of the front end of the mount was needed to make it fit at all).
While not the be-all and end-all of scope mounts, this one came to me free and has, surprisingly, quite a good RTZ - so far, at least. If that can be improved until such time as I have a Weaver convert-a-mount or a Tula POSP mount, so much the better.
And now I have the answer, thanks to Juster:
The large bolt with the "X" milled into the face fastens the dust cover to a block mounted in the receiver, and forces the receiver dust cover forward and tight. The "X" bolt is not part of the round piece with threads on the outside. The round piece threaded on the outside is the back end of the modified dust cover, and has a hole in it for the X-head bolt. The screw-on ring is there to thread on and cover up the gap and keep dust, water, oil, crud etc. out of the receiver.
A fuller explanation with illustrations is here:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6225448&postcount=4
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- Location
- Alberta Free State
There is an interesting page on another site by author "LESchwartz", titled:
"The Ultimate Removable SKS Mount"
ht tp://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=85926.0
This is an excellent "how-to" article, extensively illustrated, and described step-by-step.
The idea is similar to the Top Rail mounts for the CZ-858, developed independently by DMcFaul and Kasat and written up in Curtton's CZ-858 Optics, Sights & Mounts sticky [f.TOP RAIL MOUNT] - put a full length of picatinny rail between the rear dust cover and the rear iron sight mounting.
The front end of the picatinny rail is pinned to the rear sight mounting by a bolt. The rear end of the rail is attached to the top of the dust cover with screws and tapped holes (aided by a layer of J-B Weld between the picatinny rail and the dust cover). The rear takedown pin of the dust cover is removed and both sides of the receiver, as well as the dust cover rear block, are tapped for a cross bolt that threads through all three.
Both the front and rear ends of the picatinny rail require milling (or grindng and filing, for those of us without milling machines) in order to achieve a close fit at the mounting points. However, no "gunsmithing" as such is required. The dust cover that is drilled and tapped is a replacement such as can be purchased from any number of suppliers (NcStar, Leapers, Fitco, etc.), and the only permanent physical change to the rifle is the tapping of the hole for the dust cover takedown latch pin. This step could be omitted if the builder didn't want to permanently alter the rifle. The issue of return to zero is discussed at length, and the reason for tapping the receiver and dust cover takedown pin hole is explained.
Pictures courtesy of SKSBoards.com
The only question I was left with after reading the article was where I could get a 12" length of Picatinny rail, and how much it would cost!
"The Ultimate Removable SKS Mount"
ht tp://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=85926.0
This is an excellent "how-to" article, extensively illustrated, and described step-by-step.
The idea is similar to the Top Rail mounts for the CZ-858, developed independently by DMcFaul and Kasat and written up in Curtton's CZ-858 Optics, Sights & Mounts sticky [f.TOP RAIL MOUNT] - put a full length of picatinny rail between the rear dust cover and the rear iron sight mounting.
The front end of the picatinny rail is pinned to the rear sight mounting by a bolt. The rear end of the rail is attached to the top of the dust cover with screws and tapped holes (aided by a layer of J-B Weld between the picatinny rail and the dust cover). The rear takedown pin of the dust cover is removed and both sides of the receiver, as well as the dust cover rear block, are tapped for a cross bolt that threads through all three.
Both the front and rear ends of the picatinny rail require milling (or grindng and filing, for those of us without milling machines) in order to achieve a close fit at the mounting points. However, no "gunsmithing" as such is required. The dust cover that is drilled and tapped is a replacement such as can be purchased from any number of suppliers (NcStar, Leapers, Fitco, etc.), and the only permanent physical change to the rifle is the tapping of the hole for the dust cover takedown latch pin. This step could be omitted if the builder didn't want to permanently alter the rifle. The issue of return to zero is discussed at length, and the reason for tapping the receiver and dust cover takedown pin hole is explained.
Pictures courtesy of SKSBoards.com
The only question I was left with after reading the article was where I could get a 12" length of Picatinny rail, and how much it would cost!
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Dlask for the rail and as for the ejection problems check out isle 4 at Shoppers Drug Mart for the advil.There is an interesting page on another site by author "LESchwartz", titled:
"The Ultimate Removable SKS Mount"
ht tp://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=85926.0
This is an excellent "how-to" article, extensively illustrated, and described step-by-step.
The idea is similar to the Top Rail mounts for the CZ-858, developed independently by DMcFaul and Kasat and written up in Curtton's CZ-858 Optics, Sights & Mounts sticky [f.TOP RAIL MOUNT] - put a full length of picantinny rail between the rear dust cover and the rear iron sight mounting.
The front end of the picantinny rail is pinned to the rear sight mounting by a bolt. The rear end of the rail is attached to the top of the dust cover with screws and tapped holes (aided by a layer of J-B Weld between the picantinny rail and the dust cover). The rear takedown pin of the dust cover is removed and both sides of the receiver, as well as the dust cover rear block, are tapped for a cross bolt that threads through all three.
Both the front and rear ends of the picantinny rail require milling (or grindng and filing, for those of us without milling machines) in order to achieve a close fit at the mounting points. However, no "gunsmithing" as such is required. The dust cover that is drilled and tapped is a replacement such as can be purchased from any number of suppliers (NcStar, Leapers, Fitco, etc.), and the only permanent physical change to the rifle is the tapping of the hole for the dust cover takedown latch pin. This step could be omitted if the builder didn't want to permanently alter the rifle. The issue of return to zero is discussed at length, and the reason for tapping the receiver and dust cover takedown pin hole is explained.
Pictures courtesy of SKSBoards.com
The only question I was left with after reading the article was where I could get a 12" length of Picantinny rail, and how much it would cost!
- Location
- Alberta Free State
Dlask for the rail and as for the ejection problems check out isle 4 at Shoppers Drug Mart for the advil.
Satain,
Thanks for the pointer to Dlask. Got a second SKS on the way - Chinese Military this time - to keep my Tula laminate stock one company. Might have to try fabricating one of these full-rail mounts.
For the ejection problems, Advil - good hint. My brain hurts
. It looks like the article's author is unaware of Aramir's SKS modification of clearancing a small portion of the ejection window, which allows the ejector to kick the shells straight out to the right.
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5702760&postcount=1
I noticed that both DMcFaul and the SKS rail article's author call these mounts a "Beryl style mount". I wonder who "Beryl" was....
LOL!!!Satain,
Thanks for the pointer to Dlask. Got a second SKS on the way - Chinese Military this time - to keep my Tula laminate stock one company. Might have to try fabricating one of these full-rail mounts.
For the ejection problems, Advil - good hint. My brain hurts
It looks like the article's author is unaware of Aramir's SKS modification of clearancing a small portion of the ejection window, which allows the ejector to kick the shells straight out to the right.
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5702760&postcount=1
I noticed that both DMcFaul and the SKS rail article's author call these mounts a "Beryl style mount". I wonder who "Beryl" was....
Name of a company rail mount for the AK series of rifles.
RandomCake
New member
- Location
- Toronto, ON
Hey guys, I'm not yet an SKS owner but I think that's the way I'm going to go.. something about a Red Army rifle that gets me going
Anyways, found a place that has a LOT of stuff for the AK/Mosin/SKS/SVD.. including all the side rails, optics and other accessories.. sorry if this has been posted before but didn't see it thru this post. Looks like they specialize in eastern block optics and sell actual military issue stuff. Mind you, I have no basis for comparison so take that with a grain of salt.
ht tp://www.kalinkaoptics.com/
Shipping to Canada was only $10.50 according to their checkout page
Anyways, found a place that has a LOT of stuff for the AK/Mosin/SKS/SVD.. including all the side rails, optics and other accessories.. sorry if this has been posted before but didn't see it thru this post. Looks like they specialize in eastern block optics and sell actual military issue stuff. Mind you, I have no basis for comparison so take that with a grain of salt.
ht tp://www.kalinkaoptics.com/
Shipping to Canada was only $10.50 according to their checkout page
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- Location
- Alberta Free State
Hey guys, I'm not yet an SKS owner but I think that's the way I'm going to go.. something about a Red Army rifle that gets me going
Anyways, found a place that has a LOT of stuff for the AK/Mosin/SKS/SVD.. including all the side rails, optics and other accessories.. sorry if this has been posted before but didn't see it thru this post. Looks like they specialize in eastern block optics and sell actual military issue stuff. Mind you, I have no basis for comparison so take that with a grain of salt.
ht tp://www.kalinkaoptics.com/
Shipping to Canada was only $10.50 according to their checkout page
You can see all of those types of mounts, and several others besides at the beginning of this thread, here:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4131852&postcount=1
Enjoy
I suppose a 4" rail and 9" steel rod would do the same job if you drill a 1" hole in the rail. Possibly easier on the ejection.
Excellent thread, but only one problem - there are no targets shown for any of described mounts.
And to be honest most of them are just a waste of time and money.
Here is only one mount/scope combination is good for SKS in my experience:
And to be honest most of them are just a waste of time and money.
Here is only one mount/scope combination is good for SKS in my experience:
