Remington Model 31 12 gauge

My Dad just gave me his as he does not plan on hunting anymore. It is in nice shape for a 50 plus year old gun. haven't shot it as of yet.
 
Well, if it was not the best pump shotgun ever made it is mighty close, IMHO. Nicknamed the 'ball bearing gun' it beats the pants off the Winchester Model 12 in smoothness of the action. Plus it does not suffer from the Model 12's excessive drop in the stock.
 
Another one agrees with it's #1 ranking. But generally underrated because not a lot of people have heard of the 31. It predates steel shot of course, so don't go running steel BBs through it. It would make a great clays gun, better trap. If you can tell us more, like barrel length, choke, etc. we can give you more information.
 
Another one agrees with it's #1 ranking. But generally underrated because not a lot of people have heard of the 31. It predates steel shot of course, so don't go running steel BBs through it. It would make a great clays gun, better trap. If you can tell us more, like barrel length, choke, etc. we can give you more information.

The Rem Model 31 suffered from poor marketing. Remington new they had a winner they just didn't know how to sell it.
Winchester did the same thing with the SX-1 great product miles ahead of the Rem. 1100. They just couldn't figure out how to market it.
 
They are a good gun once you learn how to take them apart for cleaning.
The best pump ever made is stretching it win 64:)

Think of your beloved 870 Wingmaster with no stamped steel parts, hand made and hand fitted then you have the model 31.
 
The Rem Model 31 suffered from poor marketing. Remington new they had a winner they just didn't know how to sell it.
Winchester did the same thing with the SX-1 great product miles ahead of the Rem. 1100. They just couldn't figure out how to market it.

Nothing more than side ejecting rem model 17's with more steel stampings that had to be hand fitted ..
Don't know why anyone would want them so send them my way:D
Pretty ugly don't you think based on this pic
DSC02271-1.jpg
 
Nothing more than side ejecting rem model 17's with more steel stampings that had to be hand fitted ..
Don't know why anyone would want them so send them my way:D
Pretty ugly don't you think based on this pic
DSC02271-1.jpg

Why do you have Goose calls stuck on the end of your barrels?
 
Why do you have Goose calls stuck on the end of your barrels?

Young guys back in the day thought it was cool, now as old guys we know how stupid it was.
Epps about 6 months ago had about six model 31's listed together all higher grade guns.They didnot last very long
I would like to find one in a 16ga. I thought you would be buying that superx1 for parts I pm'd you about ????
 
Looks like I started a pump debate. Not sue on length of barrel as of yet but would guess around 30 inch and it has a full choke. The LOP seems a little short but have to go and fire it yet. I have the original take down case for it too - at least it looks like it was made for the gun. Anyone have info on taking it apart - manual etc.
 
Looks like I started a pump debate. Not sue on length of barrel as of yet but would guess around 30 inch and it has a full choke. The LOP seems a little short but have to go and fire it yet. I have the original take down case for it too - at least it looks like it was made for the gun. Anyone have info on taking it apart - manual etc.

They are a dam fine gun Ted we just like to debate the old ones. :D These are not my words but posted some time ago by another member and I save it.I will have to find another exploded view since the original link is not working any more
He pretty well covers it .

Here's an exploded view of the Model 31:

Here's disassembly for the Model 31:

Open action and unscrew the barrel lock nut (part 15) to the left.

Turn barrel 90% to the left and remove it forward.

Push out trigger plate pin (74) from Right to Left and turn gun bottom up.

Slide trigger plate (42) forward until trigger plate studs (48) align with slots in sides of receiver. If gun is cocked, press action bar lock (56) to release trigger plate before moving trigger plate forward.
Lift trigger plate out.

Lift out left and right cartridge stops (39 & 40) from inside receiver walls.

Move fore end (81) rearward until projection at rear of slide (68) is even with trigger plate holes in receiver sides.

Pull upward on slide while moving fore end forward to free action bar (12) from slide.

With fore end and breechblock fully forward, swing front end of carrier outward until about perpendicular to receiver and press ends together to disengage pivots.
Lift the carrier out.

Press ejector (37) fully into it's slot and lift out breechbolt.

Swing ejector rearward and lift from it's slot in the receiver.

Drift out the firing pin retainer pin (73) from Left to Right, and remove firing pin (750 and spring (76) from back end of bolt.

Drift out extractor pin (78) from bottom of bolt and remove left extractor (79) and spring (77).

Insert small screwdriver in back of right extractor (71) and pry back extractor plunger (69), then push screwdriver forward, pushing extractor out of slot.
Remove extractor plunger and spring (70).

With hammer (57) in fired (forward) position, drift out mainspring pin (46) and remove safety spring (44) and safety plunger (43) from lower hole.

Remove mainspring (64) and mainspring follower (63) from upper hole.
Remove safety (45).

Drive out hammer pin (59) and push hammer forward and down until rear of hammer link (62) is out of slot in trigger plate.

Pull hammer link rearward disengaging hammer from action bar lock spring (55).
NEVER LIFT HAMMER UPWARD UNTIL IT HAS BEEN DISENGAGED FROM THIS SPRING OR THE SPRING WILL BE BENT OR BROKEN.
Lift away hammer.

Drift out trigger pin (60) and remove action bar lock with spring attached.

Trigger lock plunger (53) and trigger lock spring (54) may be removed.
Rest of trigger plate disassembly is obvious.

Reassemble gun in reverse.
When reassembling mainspring, mainspring follower, safety spring, and safety plunger, it is easier to insert these parts first, then after replacing the mainspring, use a short wood dowel to compress the safety plunger.
Then reinsert safety.

This is the reverse of what seems obvious, which is replacing the safety THEN the spring loaded parts..

Try this link

http://www.stevespages.com/ipb-remington-31.html
 
Back
Top Bottom