1954 Russian SKS -- laminate stock refinished in tung oil
- Thread starter The Kurgan
- Start date
From what I've found the tung oil needs time to penetrate and dry... its what Ive found anyways.
The more coats you give the more character, and depth comes out of the wood. So far so good for mine anyways.
- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
From what I've found the tung oil needs time to penetrate and dry... its what Ive found anyways.
The more coats you give the more character, and depth comes out of the wood. So far so good for mine anyways.
Guys, its better to be patient. I've learned that from experience. I would simply wipe on one thin layer of tung oil, let sit for 15 minutes, wipe off any excess and then walk away from the SKS for 1 day -- as hard as it is to walk away and not tinker with it, just do it. On day two, give it a light "wipe down" with 0000 steel wool, use a clean cotton cloth to wipe off any steel wool fibres, then add another thin layer of tung oil, let sit for 15 minutes, wipe any excess and then walk away from the SKS for 1 day. Repeat this easy routine for 3 to 5 days, until the desired effect is reached. You don't need much tung oil, and in fact, the heavier you apply it, the less likely it will soak in and dry.
I find that after 4 or 5 applications you get a nice hard matte sheen finish. Perfect for a milsurp of this vintage.
After your last application of tung oil DO NOT give it another "wipe down" with 0000 steel wool, simply let it cure. I usually don't touch, or TRY not to touch the wood for about 5-7 days to ensure that the tung finish has had plenty of time to harden and cure.
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Guys, its better to be patient. I've learned that from experience. I would simply wipe on one thin layer of tung oil, let sit for 15 minutes, wipe off any excess and then walk away from the SKS for 1 day -- as hard as it is to walk away and not tinker with it, just do it. On day two, give it a light "wipe down" with 0000 steel wool, use a clean cotton cloth to wipe off any steel wool fibres, then add another thin layer of tung oil, let sit for 15 minutes, wipe any excess and then walk away from the SKS for 1 day. Repeat this easy routine for 3 to 5 days, until the desired effect is reached. You don't need much tung oil, and in fact, the heavier you apply it, the less likely it will soak in and dry.
I find that after 4 or 5 applications you get a nice hard matte sheen finish. Perfect for a milsurp of this vintage.
After your last application of tung oil DO NOT give it another "wipe down" with 0000 steel wool, simply let it cure. I usually don't touch, or TRY not to touch the wood for about 5-7 days to ensure that the tung finish has had plenty of time to harden and cure.
Exactly as stated. Mine came out better than expected. Well worth the time spent and waiting 24 hrs to re apply the tung oil. It does seem to harden and shine more with every coat. I may go 6 coats to finish them off nicely.
Thanks again TK... by the way, If there are some rough spots on the final finish... what should I do?..
A light sanding comes to mind with some light oil??.
- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
Depending on how rough, go with either 00 or 0000 steel wool first. Use sandpaper if necessary. Obviously, you will then need to apply another thin coat of tung oil.
- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
I also like to keep my oiled stocks "moisturized" with a good lemon oil about once or twice a year.
- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
Tung oil will give it a nice honey shade and will slightly darken over time after fully curing, as noted in my second batch of photos ('52 SKS). If the SKS already has a stained finish (usually a nice Russian red tint), it will come out darker (brownish and/or reddish) after tung applications. I personally do not like how laminate birch responds to stains as its prone to a blotchy or streaky appearance, and as such, I simply go with whatever colour the wood started out with. From what I understand, birch in general does not stain well and is best left in its natural state (blonde or near-white) or painted. BTW, most/all Russian laminate birch stocks have red coloured glue layers.
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Your stock looks great! I'd actually already put on the stain though lol. I sanded it really smooth, then cleaned the surface and stained with two light layers of red oak color. Then today I put on a coat of tung oil. 4-6 more to go. It looks awesome so far! It's darker than your pics, but lighter than original. I can't wait to see the finished product.
Thanks for all the help!
- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
I finally refinished my laminate SKS a'la Kurgan style..
That looks very nice, and it appears you're one of the lucky ones that got a matching laminate handguard.
hunterinthewoods
Regular
- Location
- Nova Scotia
Well this seems like a good spot to share my tung oiled laminate stock, will be going on my #3 SKS. Whenever I order another......addictive little bastards!
- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
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Dang those are looking nice. Quick q though.. Are you guys putting on a wax of some sort as a last stage, and if so, what kind?
I put some stain on mine and 6 coats of tung oil and am just wondering if it's done lol. It looks great so far but just worried I'm skipping a step.
Thanks
I put some stain on mine and 6 coats of tung oil and am just wondering if it's done lol. It looks great so far but just worried I'm skipping a step.
Thanks
hunterinthewoods
Regular
- Location
- Nova Scotia
I just rubbed it with 0000 wool before last coat(#6), wiped down with a clean cotton rag. Then gave it a nice coat of tung oil and did not wipe it off after the 20 min, then let it sit for over 30 hrs. Leave it and walk away. I did not use wax.
It came to a nice hard coat.....buffed it with a cotton rag and here it is........................ tried it out on my chinese....I will more than likely install this on my 1950 Tula.
