M305S - Ejection Snag

well, for one thing , the m14 is made for the CIVILIAN market- and you know what the chinese think of civilans- the sks was/is made for their military and what we get are "cost overruns" ie they had x number of raw materials and parts left over so rather than have them sitting there, they assembled them up and sold them . if and when the machinery ever wears out, we'll start getting "sketchy" sks - like the chinese m14- you also have to remember that the russians either GAVE the chinese the machinery or somewhere along the line that there was RUSSIAN expertise involved- and since the chinese have no intrest in blowing their OWN soldiers up, they're held to a higher standard than the m14


the m14 , on the other hand , was reverse engineered from captured m14s from vietnam, for a VERY small run for filipino gurellas that never made the trip- the filipino army at the time was also using AMERICAN m14s, so the chinese were supporting the insurgents by supplying a rifle that had a commonality with the "army " rifle- they could use whatever they captured- ammo, parts, you name it- they had NO concept that the demand for the 14 would accelerate the way it has
the chinese also had no AMERICAN expertise and that's why the first bolts were misscut,and soft- the people assembling these so-called "ghost" m14s were just workers- no concept of headspace, hardening, etc- and no INTREST in making a quality rifle -why should they care if an insurgent 1000 miles away blows up using their gun- it was only when they second-saled these guns to america that the problems came to light- they STILL don't have the barrel indexing down, as with the rear sight ladder- but the next generation MAY have those improvements
for another, the chinese guns are METRIC, and the design of the gun is AMERICAN- there's all kinds of stories about the conversions not being "close enough" to work- read about the american bofors sometime- on my old first generation norc, the THREADS are metric, but the HEADS for all the bolts ( including the hex in the front sight) are SAE
 
well, for one thing , the m14 is made for the CIVILIAN market- and you know what the chinese think of civilans- the sks was/is made for their military and what we get are "cost overruns" ie they had x number of raw materials and parts left over so rather than have them sitting there, they assembled them up and sold them . if and when the machinery ever wears out, we'll start getting "sketchy" sks - like the chinese m14- you also have to remember that the russians either GAVE the chinese the machinery or somewhere along the line that there was RUSSIAN expertise involved- and since the chinese have no intrest in blowing their OWN soldiers up, they're held to a higher standard than the m14


the m14 , on the other hand , was reverse engineered from captured m14s from vietnam, for a VERY small run for filipino gurellas that never made the trip- the filipino army at the time was also using AMERICAN m14s, so the chinese were supporting the insurgents by supplying a rifle that had a commonality with the "army " rifle- they could use whatever they captured- ammo, parts, you name it- they had NO concept that the demand for the 14 would accelerate the way it has
the chinese also had no AMERICAN expertise and that's why the first bolts were misscut,and soft- the people assembling these so-called "ghost" m14s were just workers- no concept of headspace, hardening, etc- and no INTREST in making a quality rifle -why should they care if an insurgent 1000 miles away blows up using their gun- it was only when they second-saled these guns to america that the problems came to light- they STILL don't have the barrel indexing down, as with the rear sight ladder- but the next generation MAY have those improvements

So your telling me ya get's what ya pay for?
They are what they are
 
if you think there's some sort of burr on the op-rod or in the channel run your hand in there- or strip the op-rod out of the action and FEEL for it- your hand will tell you if there's a bump or burr pretty quickly- if it's on the oprod, a piece of crocus cloth rubbed in the palm of the hand will remove it- if it's a bump, i'd either compenste for it in the stock or maybe REPLACE the op-rod- the doctor was advertising some a while back- or take it to a metal shop- it would be beyond my level of expertise- in barracks, we just used to swap everything but the bolts , and declare that rifle as n/s - and it "lived" in the garbage can at the door- when the oic came in and asked why that gun was there, we told him it was a pos, and then it disappeared - come replenishment, a nice , new still in the bag 14 showed up- actually, 2- amazing how that worked
 
So, I'm getting knocked for asking for opinions? I live a ways away from anywhere the clinics are held, with no gunsmiths to be heard of. I've been trying different ammo. Groups with American Eagle were amazingly crappy, Rem CorLokt works well, but it's waaay overpriced up here, Fed Fusion works great, just having some issues with the PowerShok.

Nowhere did I say I expect the rifle to be perfect. I know it's not. That's the fun part - tinkering. That's why I came on here, to ask opinions on how to tinker better, and coming up with ideas that I haven't thought of.

I apologize for asking how to make my gun better.
Did you read the stickies? Cause there they tell you the answers to these types of question...
Is your gas whole lined up?
Did you clean the gas system including in the smallest cavity in the gas piston?
Is you op-rod wiggley?
Are your mags seated properly?
4 moa is what this rifle is expected to shoot out of the box. It's not going to give you 1/2 moa. Although if you do some mod's that are also listed in the stickies & reload for this rifle you can get it to around 1 moa.
Get an op-rod guide. Tighten down everything & source an M14 aftermarket stock or get a fiberglass GI.
 
considering the usgi standard was 5 inches at 100 yards, ( most of them shot better than that) using the 147 grain ball issued ammo-but that was the ig std- i can still remember pulling the pills out of the belts so the gpmg had nothing but tracers in the belt- we LIKED to start fires
 
Did you read the stickies? Cause there they tell you the answers to these types of question...
Is your gas whole lined up?
Did you clean the gas system including in the smallest cavity in the gas piston?
Is you op-rod wiggley?
Are your mags seated properly?
4 moa is what this rifle is expected to shoot out of the box. It's not going to give you 1/2 moa. Although if you do some mod's that are also listed in the stickies & reload for this rifle you can get it to around 1 moa.
Get an op-rod guide. Tighten down everything & source an M14 aftermarket stock or get a fiberglass GI.

out here, most people start off with ww 308/150s - i couldn't help but notice that it's missing from the o/ps line up- white box- mostly b/c it's DEAD CHEAP and shoots well
and i notice MOST people don't read the stickies as we STILL get guide rod pins "walking" out and they don't know about the "popsicle stick:" fix- but i'd be willing to bet most folks haven't READ or got the field manual either- a couple of weeks ago i saw a request for one
 
out here, most people start off with ww 308/150s - i couldn't help but notice that it's missing from the o/ps line up- white box- mostly b/c it's DEAD CHEAP and shoots well
and i notice MOST people don't read the stickies as we STILL get guide rod pins "walking" out and they don't know about the "popsicle stick:" fix- but i'd be willing to bet most folks haven't READ or got the field manual either- a couple of weeks ago i saw a request for one

Not my first forum, first thing I did before buying was read the stickies haha Popsicle fix was one of the first mods I did. It's pretty tight on its own, but I didn't want to risk it.

Found a copy of the field manual, its on my laptop for quick reference.

I'm pretty sure there might be some binding with the trigger group, since when I pull the op rod handle back, the first 1-1.5 inches of travel is smooth, but then you can feel it contacting and rubbing on something. When I remove the trigger group and pull the handle back, its smooth for the whole travel. It's been lubed and greased as per the stickies, but still has that friction.

I'm still guessing it was an ammo problem, but I've been wrong before... :)
 
you've got to remember you're dealing with a "virgin" and maybe a rough one at that- you've also probably got no frame of referance to go by, so as long as it goes bang reliably, you should be good - i've got 4 of them, and evne though it's usgi, the trigger on the h&r just "feels" funny- it feels shorter than the rest, even including the norc- if it still bothers you, and you're down east, get hungry( barney) to take a look or attend one of his classes- he actually LIKES bouncing around the country helping out people- me, i'm just a grouchy old salt who's seen a lot of time on the 14, and am still pissed that the government hasn't seen fit to reclassify the REAL m14s according to what they are- semi-automatics- instead of"easily converted full autos"- funny how we had to jump through hoops and get them re-ground and welded to suit the cbsa and cfc, and now they just prohibit the things altogether
remember- the "cure " for the m16 chamber was done by a marine gunny armorer who took a section of cleaning rod , wrapped it crocus cloth( god how i love that stuff- fixes most anything) slapped the works in a drill and ran it in and out of the chamber a couple of dozen times
 
remember- the "cure " for the m16 chamber was done by a marine gunny armorer who took a section of cleaning rod , wrapped it crocus cloth( god how i love that stuff- fixes most anything) slapped the works in a drill and ran it in and out of the chamber a couple of dozen times

This is why I love this forum... more knowledge than a bathroom reader hahaha

I'll see into getting myself to one of the clinics someday, but my work schedule is... well... it disagrees with my hobbies lol
 
you can always take a 'SICK DAY'- these clinics are well advertised in advance by hungry and other members and you SHOULD be able to take a day off- most management doesn't mind if you have the time built up and it's skeded well in advance- or so i've found- ie there's a "family day" coming in feb- that sort of thing- just be honest to a point- you can tell tell them it's a course or seminar, but FOR GOD'S SAKE DON'T TELL THEM IT'S FIREARMS RELATED- the places i've worked, that puts the boogy lite on you and may deem you need further watching- what i do is tell them it's a "self enrichment seminar" - and it is- if it sounds like it's one of those goofy things they teach at university , you'll probably be able to go with no hassle
 
Self enrichment seminar .... That's fricken awesome, tstar, you rock LOL
Or if yer coming to one of my clinics.... Just book off a sick day and tell em your spending it under the supervision of your good doctor :D
 
"I'm pretty sure there might be some binding with the trigger group, since when I pull the op rod handle back, the first 1-1.5 inches of travel is smooth, but then you can feel it contacting and rubbing on something. When I remove the trigger group and pull the handle back, its smooth for the whole travel. It's been lubed and greased as per the stickies, but still has that friction. "

That's the bolt cocking the hammer.
 
just b/c i'm RETIRED doesn't mean i'm dead from the neck up- i was famous for " thinking outside the box" even in the meanial of tasks
you see, i'm LEFT handed- and you KNOW what means
the really tricky bit is getting THEM to pay for it- when i was with panasonic , we had all kinds of these"things" once a month or so- how to handle customers, whimis, how to box items for shipping, inventory control, etc- if you could PROVE the company would gain a better employee by taking the course, they would go for it- one of the sales guys got his private rating that way- cut down on the time between calls and his territory was vast enogh that it warranted an aircraft
 
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Right, but if it's the 2nd time I pull the op rod back, shouldn't it already be (mostly) cocked? Or am I just a compleet idiot?



Maybe not a complete idiot but......OK I had to say that ..lol.
No after you #### it the first time the hammer should still be cocked and it should take less force to bring the action to the rear.Does anyone nearby have a m-305 you could compare yours to ? Still sounds like its binding in the op rod track somewhere to me....
 
Maybe not a complete idiot but......OK I had to say that ..lol.
No after you #### it the first time the hammer should still be cocked and it should take less force to bring the action to the rear.Does anyone nearby have a m-305 you could compare yours to ? Still sounds like its binding in the op rod track somewhere to me....

I live in Smithers BC. Brought the M305 to the range, everyone there had no idea what it was, and these were guys that seemed to live at the place... not too hopeful there's another one living in a house nearby. Today is my last day of work until Monday, so I'll have time this weekend to stay inside and tinker :)
 
Even if the hammer's cocked,it bolt will still make some contact with it.
Put some grease on the the bottom rear of the bolt and the round surface of the hammer.
What I've done in the past was paint the right hand side of the hammer bright yellow or orange so you can see at a glance if it's cocked.
 
I live in Smithers BC. Brought the M305 to the range, everyone there had no idea what it was, and these were guys that seemed to live at the place... not too hopeful there's another one living in a house nearby. Today is my last day of work until Monday, so I'll have time this weekend to stay inside and tinker :)

yea, at -30 which it is EVERYWHERE , we're aLL going to spending time inside-if you're in smithers, and you're really worried about it, wait till thaw, then take a day trip- doc's in south cariboo - you're a WHOLE LOT CLOSER to him than the rest of us
and the next time somebody doesn't recognise the '14, just tell them it's a GARAND derivative. or a t-44 or one of the other multitude of names for the early 14- most any fool can tell the heritage by simply looking at it
 
and the next time somebody doesn't recognise the '14, just tell them it's a GARAND derivative. or a t-44 or one of the other multitude of names for the early 14- most any fool can tell the heritage by simply looking at it

I did. They still looked at me funny... maybe it's just me...

-30 sucks for sure. Range is only 1km away, so as soon as it gets less unbearable, Im out there again.

Put some grease on the the bottom rear of the bolt and the round surface of the hammer.
What I've done in the past was paint the right hand side of the hammer bright yellow or orange so you can see at a glance if it's cocked.

That's a brilliant idea, I'll try that! That area's greased really well, but I'll check for burrs everywhere, op rod n all.

Thanks to all for the help!
 
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