Looking for opinions on new 300 or 338

Thanks for all the input, however I am definitely confused. I do not reload, I am too busy to get out and play, nevermind learning to reload. I still havent decide what I am going to buy but whatever it is, the ammunition will be coming from chilliwack d&t and walmart. :)

Thanks guys
 
I still don't get the point of a .300 or .338 for punching holes in paper. You can do well out to 1000 yards with a proper .223 or .308 and have a fraction of the recoil, noise and cost.

For example:

Here is a guy with a 7mm WSM who shoots 1" - 2" groups at 500 yards - off a bipod. He has also shot 1/2 MOA 10 shot groups at 1000 yards, again off a bipod:
http://www.6mmbr.com/gunweek064.html

1000 yard previous world record 10 shots into 4.2" with a 6mm BR:
http://www.6mmbr.com/page/page/1309618.htm

and the list could go on and on.
 
I didn't change any numbers. I have no experience with the 300RUM, and do not have any input to offer on that chambering.

Note, I only said the trajectory and wind drift between a 7mm Bullet and a .308 bullet would be the same, if the BCs and starting velocity are the same.If both bullets arrive at 1000 yards, travelling the same speed, the 30 cal, being heavier, will retain more energy.
Simple physics, no mystery at all.
I still think the big 30's trump the 7mm's by a little bit.
Regards, Eagleye

Sorry for not clarifying....kman is who i was refering to about saying the RUM barely matches the 7mm. And I own a 300 WM, 300 WSM, and a 300 RUM. The RUM has a good jump on the win mag.
 
I still don't get the point of a .300 or .338 for punching holes in paper. You can do well out to 1000 yards with a proper .223 or .308 and have a fraction of the recoil, noise and cost.

Because I want one. I am sure you must have a few rifles that you purchased because you wanted one. Lots of guys buy 50 cals and other large calibers for no reason then punching holes in paper, no good reason for a rifle of that size in a civilians hand, Trex died a long time ago.
 
Because I want one. I am sure you must have a few rifles that you purchased because you wanted one. Lots of guys buy 50 cals and other large calibers for no reason then punching holes in paper, no good reason for a rifle of that size in a civilians hand, Trex died a long time ago.

I don't think you can even buy match grade ammo for the .300 Win Mag or the .338 Win Mag - and certainly not at Walmart. A box of Federal Gold Medal Match in .223 is about $31; in .308 Win it is $37; in .338 Lapua it is $126.

I think many of the people with .338 Lapuas, .408s and .50 BMGs are shooting out well past 1000 yards, and I am willing to bet that 99% of them reload.

Different strokes for different folks I guess.
 
I never said anything about long distance shooting, i just wanted something in that range of calibers. I buy the cheapest ammunition possible and shoot holes in targets that i could hit with a rock.
 
I don't think you can even buy match grade ammo for the .300 Win Mag or the .338 Win Mag - and certainly not at Walmart. A box of Federal Gold Medal Match in .223 is about $31; in .308 Win it is $37; in .338 Lapua it is $126.

I think many of the people with .338 Lapuas, .408s and .50 BMGs are shooting out well past 1000 yards, and I am willing to bet that 99% of them reload.

Different strokes for different folks I guess.

:confused:
Why is it bothering you so much the guy wants a 300 or 338? Let him buy a freakin' tank if he wants one, it's his money.
 
Well, I for one am beginning to think that c-fbmi is loosing credibility. Every time someone disagrees with him on anything, he mentions how much he spends on hunting as an argument that he knows things. Sorry, but that logical fallacy always smacks of insecurity and running out of reason.

The velocities quoted should be a real red flag. Kman is absolutely correct that no one should be going after those sorts of numbers when they violate all the data, and certainly my experience. (I must admit, I have never spent 50,000 on a hunt. Does that make me ignorant? See how irrelevant that argument really is?)

The point being, rral22 that when I spend that kind of money on a hunt the last thing I want, is to leave success or failure up to a bullet of substandard construction. There are bullets that perform well from 20-400 mtrs, where 99% of all game is taken. It wouldn't make a lot of sense to load a bullet that would fail dismally at 50 mtrs just because I may have to make a 450 mtr shot, would it?
I would also like to ask you why "no one should be going after those kind of numbers", where is it decreed in law that I shouldn't load my particular rifle and cartridge combination to it's greatest safe potential? I AM, as we all are, bound within the limits of the brass. I may not get 15 loads from every case but I do get several, which tells me that I am at the upper SAFE limits of the brass in that rifle with that load.
I won't get into personalities here so I choose not to respond to "my insecurities" other than to suggest you may wish to look up "projecting". As far as my credibility, I'll let you worry about that, because I'm not.

kman300...All the velocities listed were worked up to, in 1/2 or 1 gn increments and were safe in the rifles I was using at the time, I don't strive to reach any predestined velocity, I work up until I note the pressure indicators at which point the velocity is the velocity. I chrono almost all my test loads, so I know if anything untoward is going on as I go up the ladder.
40 years of handloading experience has taught me that manuals are conservative guidelines that have to take into account every cheap piece of junk gun ever made for any given caliber. They are far more concerned with liabilities than eeking the last fps performance from any given rifle/caliber. I can also tell you, there can be over 100 fps and 2-3 grns of powder difference in 2 different makes of brass, with identicle pressure indicators, which they also must take into account.
Please note; I only reported velocities not my actual loads, THAT would be irresponsible and not something I ever do.
I am doing my best to keep this civil and adopt the attitude that you may actually open your mind and learn something from those of us who have been playing this game for many decades, like eagleye and myself and I'm sure many more who are brighter than I and kept their mouth shut.

I am sure as a rational reloader, with obviously a decent understanding of exterior ballistics, you must agree with the statement that if you drive a 7mm bullet with a BC of .6 @ 3000 fps and you drive a .308 bullet with a BC of .6 at 3000 fps the flight characteristics will be identicle, however the energy and retained energy will be significantly higher for the .308 bullet, right?
Now according to my calculations if you take that .308 bullet and retain the nominal weight but change the shape so as to reduce the BC to say .5 and you increase the velocity by 100 fps the .308 bullet still retains more energy to 1000 mtrs, and still flies virtually identicle, run the numbers youself. Hence no 7mm bullet can be better from a 7mm RM than a similar bullet from a 300 Win because for any given BC bullet the 300 win is capable of at least the same velocities as the 7mmRM if not more. This is what eagleye and myself have been trying to point out to you.
So I ask you, as did the OP, which is the better longrange hammer 7mm RM or 300 Win? Powder burn and recoil not withstanding, speaking strictly ballistically.
 
:confused:
Why is it bothering you so much the guy wants a 300 or 338? Let him buy a freakin' tank if he wants one, it's his money.

It's not bothering me. He asked for opinions and that is mine. I have owned, and in fact right now still own a .300 WM and .338 WM. Obviously he has never owned one before and my only point is that there are other fun options - he is already worried about the recoil, before he has even decided on which one to get.

Everyone can spend their money on whatever they want, that much is true. However, it would be wise to do your research first, as evidenced in the EE by the "fired only 3x" rifles for sale.

Like the last line of my post you quoted "Different strokes for different folks".
 
The point being, rral22 that when I spend that kind of money on a hunt the last thing I want, is to leave success or failure up to a bullet of substandard construction. There are bullets that perform well from 20-400 mtrs, where 99% of all game is taken. It wouldn't make a lot of sense to load a bullet that would fail dismally at 50 mtrs just because I may have to make a 450 mtr shot, would it?

My point being that no matter how much one has spent on a hunt, exactly the same performance standards should apply. The fact that money was spent is no argument that you understand those issues better than anyone else. Money is irrelevant, so stop using it as proof you know something.

I would also like to ask you why "no one should be going after those kind of numbers", where is it decreed in law that I shouldn't load my particular rifle and cartridge combination to it's greatest safe potential? I AM, as we all are, bound within the limits of the brass. I may not get 15 loads from every case but I do get several, which tells me that I am at the upper SAFE limits of the brass in that rifle with that load.

So, your loads limit the number of safe reloads from your brass to "several", but you are suggesting to readers here that they can safely pursue those velocities and expect to get there safely?? As long as they stay within the "limits of the brass" (and we measure that how?) of course. And you are suggesting that manuals from bullet and powder manufacturers are "conservative guidelines" that anyone with better than a "cheap piece of junk gun ever made" can treat as just a suggestion?

I don't think so. I think the manufacturers do a really good job of providing reloaders with reliable, safe data. I think the velocities they suggest as maximum, and which you exceed by several hundred fps at times, is a good guide for anyone with a chronograph to use as a standard. I think anyone using your results as a standard would be inviting problems. I think it is irresponsible to advise people to violate those standards.

That is the result of my experience. It disagrees with yours. I hope the arguments you present against my opinion do not include a list of animals you paid to shoot, or the cost of some expensive trip somewhere, because although it makes me envious, it will do nothing to make you more credible
 
Haven't read all the posts, but I, too was in the market for.........

I was thinking a 338 in either a winchester model 70, or a browning Abolt medallion, as a dedicated elk rifle mostly for son, but also for my occassional use.

I ended up getting us each a stevens in 300winmag. I've always used a 300 for my elk gun and while I would have liked to try a 338 I like us both having our own elk getter, especially since he now lives a 7hr drive away from me and I know where the 338 would be every time I wanted to use it. :)

For what it's worth IMO the best buy in a nice rifle right now is a winchester model 70. The most accurate rifles I've owned have generally been abolt brownings, but for the price, these stevens are pretty tough to beat as a hunting rifle, even if they are ugly as sin. Which of course follows that if stevens was to bring out a model 200 in 338 I'd be first in line for one. ;)
 
I am sure as a rational reloader, with obviously a decent understanding of exterior ballistics, you must agree with the statement that if you drive a 7mm bullet with a BC of .6 @ 3000 fps and you drive a .308 bullet with a BC of .6 at 3000 fps the flight characteristics will be identicle, however the energy and retained energy will be significantly higher for the .308 bullet, right?

I completely agree. If you can launch the same BC bullet at the same speed they will have identical trajectories and wind drift. Their weight determines their energy down range. Absolutly.

Now according to my calculations if you take that .308 bullet and retain the nominal weight but change the shape so as to reduce the BC to say .5 and you increase the velocity by 100 fps the .308 bullet still retains more energy to 1000 mtrs, and still flies virtually identicle, run the numbers youself. Hence no 7mm bullet can be better from a 7mm RM than a similar bullet from a 300 Win because for any given BC bullet the 300 win is capable of at least the same velocities as the 7mmRM if not more. This is what eagleye and myself have been trying to point out to you.

This is where we disagree. Berger load data for the 210gr vld in a 300 win mag tops out at ~2850fps (in a 26" barrel).

Berger load data for the 168gr vld in a 7mm rem mag is ~3050fps (I achieve this in a 24" barrel).

The 168gr (162gr amax) and 210gr berger have very similar BCs BUT according to the bullet company it is impossible to get the same speed with a 210gr berger in a 300 win mag as you can get with a 168gr in a 7mm rem mag. The difference is ~200fps.

To launch a .6+ bc bullet that the 7mm rem mag launches at 3050fps you must step up to a big 30 (I got 3090fps in my 300 ultra mag with 93.7gr retumbo). The 300 ultra had way more kick for a minimal improvement (an extra ~250 or so fl/lbs at 1000 yards).

It doesn't make sense to me to have twice the recoil and 25gr more powder and a heavier gun for a few hundred ft/lbs at 1000 yards. If I'm going to put myself through more recoil, more powder and a heavier gun I will pick a big 338 and have a much higher energy advantage over the 7mm.

[/QUOTE]

So I ask you, as did the OP, which is the better longrange hammer 7mm RM or 300 Win? Powder burn and recoil not withstanding, speaking strictly ballistically.

The 7mm rem mag with 168/162's is since no reloading manual/powder manufacterer/bullet company supports 3000fps with a 210gr bullet in a 300 win mag.

The OP also doesn't reload. Can you show me factory loaded ammo with a 210gr berger at 3000+fps?
 
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Sorry for not clarifying....kman is who i was refering to about saying the RUM barely matches the 7mm. And I own a 300 WM, 300 WSM, and a 300 RUM. The RUM has a good jump on the win mag.

I already explained all this in a previous post. Do a little more research on bc's and maybe it will make more sense to you.
 
I already explained all this in a previous post. Do a little more research on bc's and maybe it will make more sense to you.

Well you went from saying the 7 mm beats them all.....to the RUM can barely match the 7 mm....to saying the RUM does have more energy downrange. All in the same thread. And you are arguing with guys about what they achieve for velocities because your Berger "bible" says its not possible? And people are questioning c-fbmi's credibility? :confused: His stories stay the same
 
Well you went from saying the 7 mm beats them all.....to the RUM can barely match the 7 mm....to saying the RUM does have more energy downrange. All in the same thread. And you are arguing with guys about what they achieve for velocities because your Berger "bible" says its not possible? And people are questioning c-fbmi's credibility? :confused: His stories stay the same

You Sir, are a lost cause. Aside from not understanding BC and using your "common" sense to discern things and not having shot the caliber/bullet combos at long range, you also have poor reading comprehension.
 
You Sir, are a lost cause. Aside from not understanding BC and using your "common" sense to discern things and not having shot the caliber/bullet combos at long range, you also have poor reading comprehension.

would you like me to go extract your 3 quotes for you?
 
So, your loads limit the number of safe reloads from your brass to "several", but you are suggesting to readers here that they can safely pursue those velocities and expect to get there safely?? As long as they stay within the "limits of the brass" (and we measure that how?) of course. And you are suggesting that manuals from bullet and powder manufacturers are "conservative guidelines" that anyone with better than a "cheap piece of junk gun ever made" can treat as just a suggestion?

I don't think so. I think the manufacturers do a really good job of providing reloaders with reliable, safe data. I think the velocities they suggest as maximum, and which you exceed by several hundred fps at times, is a good guide for anyone with a chronograph to use as a standard. I think anyone using your results as a standard would be inviting problems. I think it is irresponsible to advise people to violate those standards.

That is the result of my experience. It disagrees with yours. I hope the arguments you present against my opinion do not include a list of animals you paid to shoot, or the cost of some expensive trip somewhere, because although it makes me envious, it will do nothing to make you more credible[/QUOTE]

First off, I advised no one to do anything, period.

If you do not know how to read pressure signs on brass rifle cases then I agree, stay with the books.

We, rral22 are two completely different people in every way, obviously.

My advice to you is to make all your loads so as to never exceed a book max, drive your 4 cyl minivan and your Prius, never exceeding the speed limit and eat your meat, potatos and vanilla ice cream, oh ya and never venture more than 200 miles from home.

I will continue to load cartridges to their greatest safe potential, drive my Z06 and Ferarri at any speed which pleases me, try the foods all over the world, on my travels and hunting trips, fly, skydive and bow hunt polar and grizzly bears. And if my lifestyle offends you, as it apparently does.............Oh well !!
 
would you like me to go extract your 3 quotes for you?

There I saved you the trouble.

Not sure what the berger bible is BUT if you have a look at other reloading manuals (you have several since you are well versed in external ballistics right?) you will see that none of them show 3000fps with a 210gr bullet in a 300 win mag.


Post#33
Except for a "longrange hammer" you want the 7mm mag and not the 300 win mag. 7mm rm hits harder, shoots flatter, has less wind drift and is cheaper to shoot. For a longrange hammer that is. For 100 yard shots it doesn't.

Post#38
Well I don't know what "long range hammer" means to most people but lets assume long range starts after 500 yards.

The chart shows a 168gr berger launched at 3050fps (very achievable with a 7mm rem mag). Please feel free to post a 300 win mag load that will hit harder, shoot flatter, and have less wind drift. Not to mention the 7mm rem mag kicks less and is cheaper to shoot.


Calculated Table

Range Drop Windage Velocity Energy Time
(yd) (in) (in) (ft/s) (ft•lbs) (s)
500 -40.0 10.0 2347.3 2055.0 0.560
550 -51.2 12.5 2282.0 1942.3 0.625
600 -64.2 15.4 2217.9 1834.6 0.692
650 -78.9 18.6 2154.8 1731.8 0.760
700 -95.5 22.2 2092.8 1633.6 0.831
750 -114.1 26.1 2031.9 1539.8 0.904
800 -134.7 30.5 1971.9 1450.3 0.979
850 -157.6 35.2 1912.8 1364.7 1.056
900 -182.9 40.4 1854.6 1282.9 1.136
950 -210.7 46.0 1797.3 1204.8 1.218
1000 -241.2 52.0 1740.7 1130.2 1.303


P.S. I should also add that I'm not just making up these numbers. I shoot a 7mm rem mag, have had a 300 wby and a 300 ultra. The 300 ultra with 200gr accubonds barely matches the 7mm and kicks about twice as hard and uses 25gr more powder. But we are talking about the 300 win mag here and it doesn't even come close. I sold my big 30's as they offered no ballistic advantage and kicked way harder/cost more to shoot. If a 7mm doesn't shoot flat enough and hit hard enough for you then skip the 30's, build a 338 lapua et al in a 15lbs gun and put a break on it.


Post#49
sksavenger:
I never said the 300 rum can't push a 200gr bullet faster than a 7mm rem mag can push the 168gr. I said it barely matches it ballisticly and perhaps I should have said it doesn't offer much improvement but it does offer much more recoil, 25gr more powder per shot and you need a heavier gun or a muzzle break or it's no fun at all.

At 1000 yards the numbers for my achieved safe speeds are as follows

7mm rem mag 168gr berger 3050fps
1746fps
1137ft/lbs
55.11" wind drift (10mph wind)

300 rum 200gr accubond 3160fps
1768fps
1388ft/lbs
55.77" wind drift (10mph wind)

300 rum 210 berger 3090fps
1798fps
1508ft/lbs
52.54" wind drift (10mph wind)

This is comparing a 7mm rem mag to a 300 ultra mag.

Berger data for the 210gr berger in the 300 win mag all tops out at ~2850fps from a 26" barrel btw.

300 win mag 210 berger 2850fps
1631fps
1198ft/lbs
59.04" wind drift (10mph wind)

If you impose a 1800fps minimum impact velocity to ensure expansion the 300 win mag reaches this threshhold at 831 yards. The 168gr berger does it at 950 yards.



Cheers


Post#54

I get my 500-1000 yard data from shooting at those ranges. I will humbly suggest you have not shot at "long range" if your common sense tells you that a 200gr bullet will beat a 168gr bullet just because it starts out faster. Ballistic coefficient of a bullet is the deciding factor. Not how fast they start out as.

Did you base all your comments on your "common" sense? Do you not actually have any experience at long range with said caliber/bullets? :confused:
 
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My advice to you is to make all your loads so as to never exceed a book max, drive your 4 cyl minivan and your Prius, never exceeding the speed limit and eat your meat, potatos and vanilla ice cream, oh ya and never venture more than 200 miles from home.

I will continue to load cartridges to their greatest safe potential, drive my Z06 and Ferarri at any speed which pleases me, try the foods all over the world, on my travels and hunting trips, fly, skydive and bow hunt polar and grizzly bears. And if my lifestyle offends you, as it apparently does.............Oh well !!

Man, that's brilliant. You win.

I already said, I envy your lifestyle. My point is (and you really seem to have missed it) that your lifestyle doesn't make you right about anything. It's irrelevant.

Of course, I can see that to you, it isn't. THAT is where we are, in fact, completely different.
 
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