- Location
- Eastern Edge of the Foothills
So, do you think I need to get a pin in there to re-inforce it, or do you think the bedding that's there will be sufficient?
Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!
- Thread starter Baribal
- Start date
From the pictures, It looks like the bedding was well done. My guess is tha the guy who made the bedding drilled holes which followed the cracks and filled it with bedding compound. So, from my standing point, I see no real problem using this stock as it is now. Just keep the action screws tight and have an eye at the stability of the cracks. If in doubt, you still can drill through the cracks at an angle, from the inside of the stock, and epoxy glue a threaded brass, bronze or SS pin in side.
- Location
- Eastern Edge of the Foothills
Well I'm glad to hear that. Thank you, Baribal, for your help.
Bedding does look good.!
It looks in the pic to be bearing at the tang radius, would not hurt to relieve that area a bit. I use two thickness' of black electrical tape over the tang metal when bedding. It's important that the recoil lug is taking all of the recoil, and not being moved forward off it's seat by any other pressure point. Those cracks won't change, if they dont get pounded.
Check that the tang guard screw is not touching the stock bushing.
Some guys torque down the action scews on the soft epoxy, a mistake, as it duplicates existing mis-alignments and action stress. Properly done, the action will not move/flex when the screws are tightened/loosened. I would check that too, with a fingertip at the wood/metal interface while cranking the screws.
If there is an existing crack in the wood between the mag well and trigger mortise(pry the well open a bit to see), that should have a cross pin epoxy'd in to stabilize the works during recoil.
Thats a fine rifle you have there, Huntin' Gun .... worth the effort to make her as good as she can be.
It looks in the pic to be bearing at the tang radius, would not hurt to relieve that area a bit. I use two thickness' of black electrical tape over the tang metal when bedding. It's important that the recoil lug is taking all of the recoil, and not being moved forward off it's seat by any other pressure point. Those cracks won't change, if they dont get pounded.
Check that the tang guard screw is not touching the stock bushing.
Some guys torque down the action scews on the soft epoxy, a mistake, as it duplicates existing mis-alignments and action stress. Properly done, the action will not move/flex when the screws are tightened/loosened. I would check that too, with a fingertip at the wood/metal interface while cranking the screws.
If there is an existing crack in the wood between the mag well and trigger mortise(pry the well open a bit to see), that should have a cross pin epoxy'd in to stabilize the works during recoil.
Thats a fine rifle you have there, Huntin' Gun .... worth the effort to make her as good as she can be.
Last edited:
mosinmaster
CGN frequent flyer
Anybody know if the screw size for the factory swivel studs put into the Husqvarna 640 FN98 beech stocks? I want to replace them with regular studs that can have 1-1.5'' sling swivels. It seems like the stud and swivel from the factory are a one piece unit as I can't unscrew the swivel from the stud.
The swivels in my Husqvarna stocks are thicker and coarser threaded than the Uncle Mikes type.
The holes would need to be filled and redrilled, IMO.
A proper fitting slot screwdriver, and a good penetrating oil soak, should out those stubborn swivel cross-screws.
The holes would need to be filled and redrilled, IMO.
A proper fitting slot screwdriver, and a good penetrating oil soak, should out those stubborn swivel cross-screws.
What most people does is to remove the studs from the stock and take the rings off from the swivels (studs) and drill the hole a tad larger to accept Quick detachable swivels (ex. Uncle Mike's). Then, if you want to return it to original configuration, you just have to use the original rings. They'll be just a little looser than they originally were, but still usable.
This works for most European style swivel studs.
This works for most European style swivel studs.
1964 would be the correct year of manufacture.
Then, are you sure it's a 1600? the 1600 is the short barreled version @ 20.47". The 1640 is the long barreled action @ 23.62" . There is a lot of confusion on this, because of the CFC register is wrong.
Then, are you sure it's a 1600? the 1600 is the short barreled version @ 20.47". The 1640 is the long barreled action @ 23.62" . There is a lot of confusion on this, because of the CFC register is wrong.
- Location
- Eastern Edge of the Foothills
Hey, is there a difference between the 1600 lightweight and the 1600 carbine? I have a couple 1640 standards with the longer barrel. I also have a couple Lightweights with shorter barrels and slimmer contouring on the barrels. But then I have this one rifle that has the shorter barrel, but the thicker barrel contours like the standards. Is this an oddball, or just another version?
Sorry, don't know how to attach pictures but here's a link to the photobucket album I just made for it:
http://s1081.photobucket.com/albums/j348/felderbc/GUSTAF/
Thank you very much for the info, don't think that I will be looking for a new hunting rifle for a long time! Thanks again
- Location
- Eastern Edge of the Foothills
Here are my 2 latest Huskies
The top one is a 30-06, and it's the one I was asking about the cracks in the tang area of the stock. It also has a chip on the toe, and so I'm considering getting an aftermarket recoil pad on there.
The bottom one is a .270. It's got real fancy wood. I sure like the feel of her. Both have the shorter barrel and slimmer contour.
Here's my Husky collection to date:
The top two in this pic are the two mentioned above, the next one down is a .270 in 1600 with the cheeck piece. The next one down is a 6.5x55 in a 1640 std. No cheeck piece or any checkering.
The next one down is my uncle's .270 mentioned earlier in this thread. Identical to the 6.5x55, but the .270 has the steel bottom metal, and the 6.5 has aluminum.
The bottom one is the first Husky I bought. I thought it was a 1600 because it has the shorter barrel, but it has a thicker contour, and a recessed crown, so it's a 1640 std that's been chopped. It still shoots well, and has taken a few deer for me.
The top one is a 30-06, and it's the one I was asking about the cracks in the tang area of the stock. It also has a chip on the toe, and so I'm considering getting an aftermarket recoil pad on there.
The bottom one is a .270. It's got real fancy wood. I sure like the feel of her. Both have the shorter barrel and slimmer contour.
Here's my Husky collection to date:
The top two in this pic are the two mentioned above, the next one down is a .270 in 1600 with the cheeck piece. The next one down is a 6.5x55 in a 1640 std. No cheeck piece or any checkering.
The next one down is my uncle's .270 mentioned earlier in this thread. Identical to the 6.5x55, but the .270 has the steel bottom metal, and the 6.5 has aluminum.
The bottom one is the first Husky I bought. I thought it was a 1600 because it has the shorter barrel, but it has a thicker contour, and a recessed crown, so it's a 1640 std that's been chopped. It still shoots well, and has taken a few deer for me.
The two with checkered fore ends are a model 4000 for the Monte-Carlo stocked one and 4100 for the one with straight comb and cheeck piece only. There should be evidence of front sight removal on the 4000, unless it was reblued.
So, you have two 4000 series imported in the '50-'60s, the 1600 Std and the three 1640are from recent imports. Your three 1640, from what I can see, all seems to be of the Standard model.
Nice familly picture.
So, you have two 4000 series imported in the '50-'60s, the 1600 Std and the three 1640are from recent imports. Your three 1640, from what I can see, all seems to be of the Standard model.
Nice familly picture.
