OK I'm using a 303 for my bush rifle,

6.5x55swm

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I was looking for a bush rifle and picked up a No 4 MK1 for $50 bore is a little dark but that ok. It has the original sights, what would you use for sights, scope our leave the way it is, I really like tru-glow sights, just looking for ideas
 
there is that model paint that glows in the dark-halloween nail polish, all kinds of things-
 
Well if your eyesight is good, just use it as with the original battle/flip up elevation adjustable sight. " Ghost Ring" sights before most of the current pundits ' discovered ' them. :)
 
If that rifle has the original battle and flip up ladder sight, you don't need anything else.

I have an enfield #4 Mk2 and it shoots 2" or smaller in 100 yards. For open sights it is a fantastic shooter.
 
I hunted years ago with rifle sights and watched 4 deer walk past my stand because i could not tell if they had antlers, i think imay go with a scope, it's better at dawn and dusk
 
I hunted years ago with rifle sights and watched 4 deer walk past my stand because i could not tell if they had antlers, i think imay go with a scope, it's better at dawn and dusk

WRONG ANSWER !!! (yes, I know I'm shouting)

Never, ever use your scope for identification. That is what binoculars are for. Never point your rifle at something you don't know exactly what it is. This is recreational hunting, not combat. I've been Identified that way (while I was looking back through my binos), by an idiot. He later got an earful, also let his guide (who wasn't with him at the time) know about it.

The ghost ring & flip up peep work great on the Enfields.
 
As others have said, go with the irons that are on there. And buy some binoculars. They're probably some of the most important hunting gear you can have.

Congratulations on a great score on a great rifle.
 
Binocs and irons are fine but the reality is if you cant see it good enough to spot antlers it is probably too far or to dark to make a good shot with irons.

Just something I have found out for myself and my eye sight (not quite 20-20 and not great in low light)
 
WRONG ANSWER !!! (yes, I know I'm shouting)

Never, ever use your scope for identification. That is what binoculars are for. Never point your rifle at something you don't know exactly what it is. This is recreational hunting, not combat. I've been Identified that way (while I was looking back through my binos), by an idiot. He later got an earful, also let his guide (who wasn't with him at the time) know about it.

The ghost ring & flip up peep work great on the Enfields.

What I got from the OP was that he was aware it was a deer but was unable to determine if it had antlers (which can be difficult to identify in the woods, in low light, etc etc.). I agree that a scope shouldn't be used to identify what you are looking at, but for details of that animal, I don't see an issue with it. Especially in a situation where the law requires a certain length of antler, I don't see a concern with trying to figure this out with a scope if you have one.

In a situation where you are trying to find out what exactly you are looking at, binos without a doubt. But if you know it is a game animal... scopes are fine.
 
it all depends on you eye sight, if you have troubles seeing at further distances id say put a scope on it, plus its better anyways since you will get alot better shot at the animal your hunting so theres alot less chance of wasted meat or just wounding/missing it. and if you want to hunt with iron sights you can always just take the scope off.
 
Well - I use an unscoped 303 for dogging. Even with my far-sighted 50 year plus old eyes, I can manage with the battle peep. I've gussied up the front sight with some flourescent enamel paint - you can but it at hobby stores. When I was younger, I would use a very fine front sight, now I have better luck with a coarse front sight eg large bead.
Over the years, I've generally had better luck with unscoped rifles. Foremost advantage is the ability to quickly acquire targets. I got some heat in a recent thread about using an unscoped 303, which I will ignore. I'll continue to use ol' reliable (slick action, half #### feature, detachable magazine, and "throw-away" price tag) until my eyes cant do it anymore.
 
WRONG ANSWER !!! (yes, I know I'm shouting)

Never, ever use your scope for identification. That is what binoculars are for. Never point your rifle at something you don't know exactly what it is. This is recreational hunting, not combat. I've been Identified that way (while I was looking back through my binos), by an idiot. He later got an earful, also let his guide (who wasn't with him at the time) know about it.

The ghost ring & flip up peep work great on the Enfields.

your a tad dense between the ears..

no where did he say he didn't know it was a deer.. i would like u to see 3 inch horns thro a tree where the deer seem to love to hide there heads at 100 yard

Binocs and irons are fine but the reality is if you cant see it good enough to spot antlers it is probably too far or to dark to make a good shot with irons.

Just something I have found out for myself and my eye sight (not quite 20-20 and not great in low light)

no i don't argee with you..
 
first, there's nothing wrong with my eyes, 20/15 vision, the deer i was talking were about 40yards in front of my stand, i could see there tails, just to dark to tell if if was a buck and it was still legal to hunt, here in NB a buck must have visable antlers, by the naked eye. I would NEVER point a rifle at anyone!!!! but thanks for thinking I'm that stupid, tried a few shoots at the range, I think I will leave the way it is and get a deer this fall in honor of my grandpa RHLI WWII 1942 to 1945, D-day France, Belguim, Holland.
Thanks for all the info and opinions
Danny
 
your a tad dense between the ears..

That maybe true, but it is beside the point :)

no where did he say he didn't know it was a deer.. i would like u to see 3 inch horns thro a tree where the deer seem to love to hide there heads at 100 yard

If you are certain you want to shoot it, do not aim your rifle at it. It is that simple. I would not want to be anywhere near another hunter who does not understand that concept.
 
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OK I now have to sound off on this thread. I love the old 303s, have a safe full of them, two of them old sporters, one of which I recently dressed up with ATI stocks and a side mount scope as it was already drilled and tapped. I agree the old battle sights work great and if the idea is as a bush gun irons make a lot of sense.

As for the animal ID argument, if it's been properly identified as legal game, drawing on it and then deciding if you're going to squeeze or not, is entirely within acceptable safe hunting practice. The premise that only drawing if you're 100% committed to pulling the trigger is ludicrous. Drawing on an animal and then deciding not to shoot if it doesn't present a shot you feel is ethical is acceptable, so how would choosing not to pull based on antler size or the lack there of any different. Give me a break.
 
There is a big difference between being sure you want to shoot something and committing to the shot. Be sure you want to shoot it before drawing (if presence of antlers is not determined, the legality may be a question mark). Once you determine that you want to shoot it, and have aimed you are by no means committed to making the shot. At that point you might find that you don't have a clear shot or could notice something that causes doubt about the safety of the shot, so you don't shoot. Regardless, you still need to determine if you want to shoot it before taking aim on it.

A lot of people think that binos are only useful for better seeing things that are a long way off, and that they aren't needed in thick brush where they only expect shots at close ranges. Binos are particularly useful in thick bush at short distances because they really help you pinpoint your focal distance to help you see your way through the brush in a manner that the naked eye just isn't capable of doing. If you have a certain optics budget that needs to cover binos and a scope, binos need to be priority one. I'm not suggesting that you need to spend the 2G+ from one of the big 3 German companies, but get something decent (eg. Nikon Monarch, Minox, etc...) & use what is leftover for the scope.
 
That maybe true, but it is beside the point :)



If you are certain you want to shoot it, do not aim your rifle at it. It is that simple. I would not want to be anywhere near another hunter who does not understand that concept.

If you are certain you want to shoot it, do not aim your rifle at it.. ??? were would i aim my rifle then if i want to kill it ??

There is a big difference between being sure you want to shoot something and committing to the shot. Be sure you want to shoot it before drawing (if presence of antlers is not determined, the legality may be a question mark). Once you determine that you want to shoot it, and have aimed you are by no means committed to making the shot. At that point you might find that you don't have a clear shot or could notice something that causes doubt about the safety of the shot, so you don't shoot. Regardless, you still need to determine if you want to shoot it before taking aim on it.

A lot of people think that binos are only useful for better seeing things that are a long way off, and that they aren't needed in thick brush where they only expect shots at close ranges. Binos are particularly useful in thick bush at short distances because they really help you pinpoint your focal distance to help you see your way through the brush in a manner that the naked eye just isn't capable of doing. If you have a certain optics budget that needs to cover binos and a scope, binos need to be priority one. I'm not suggesting that you need to spend the 2G+ from one of the big 3 German companies, but get something decent (eg. Nikon Monarch, Minox, etc...) & use what is leftover for the scope.

i have never had time to deal with binos in the bush.. deer are moving and by the time i find them in binos and get them outta the way and stopp flapping my arms around and pick my gun up shoulder it and locate it in the scope, it has eaten my apples, took a gaint crap, scraped a tree and wandered off..
 
If you are certain you want to shoot it, do not aim your rifle at it.. ??? were would i aim my rifle then if i want to kill it ??

Typo on my part, should have said "if you are not certain you want to shoot it, don't aim at it." Sorry for that - confusion was my fault.

I understand what your saying about a fast moving deer and not having time for the binos - that happens alot. However they can be invaluable if you are staying still and notice something walking through the brush. Having them on a bino harness makes them really handy.

My apologies for hijacking the OP, but the point is do not using your rifle scope for target identification.
 
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