My Ruger American .270 ( PICS UP )
- Thread starter DILLIGAF
- Start date
I've never seen a American Ruger, looks different! completely.
What is it, a New budget Model deer rifle from Ruger?
that groups nice for deer
with the 270, winchester supremes for bigger than Deer animals, otherwise Corelokts work well on deer sized game.. any of the pills from 130 will be fine for whitetail an mulies, Elk, id look into the premium range
What is it, a New budget Model deer rifle from Ruger?
that groups nice for deer
with the 270, winchester supremes for bigger than Deer animals, otherwise Corelokts work well on deer sized game.. any of the pills from 130 will be fine for whitetail an mulies, Elk, id look into the premium range
If you mean shooting with no front rest or bags, the you certainly have nothing to complain about with that outfit!
Ted
Ive got a Ruger American in .270 also, and love it. Its my first entry level rifle, but I don't personally think that its a cheap entry level rifle like a savage axis or mossberg. I would put it in the same class as a remington model 700sps, and is better than one of those IMHO.... I actually find it to be on par with my Tikka, and is just as accurate...I'm getting around MOA with certain factory loads, and I'm sure sub MOA will be achieved once I get around to reloading for it, but since its going to be used for hunting, its more than good as it is.
Even the guy who sold it to me at Epps, said that I should save myself $75 and buy the ruger, instead of the model 700sps, and I'm glad I did.....You won't see mine on EE.
Even the guy who sold it to me at Epps, said that I should save myself $75 and buy the ruger, instead of the model 700sps, and I'm glad I did.....You won't see mine on EE.
I will try different ammo this weekend if I have time... Hopefully my Harris bipod will be in from brownells... I tried mounting my Atlas to it but it was an epic fail on my part....
As for federal bluebox... My savage hates it and so does my friends 700...
As for federal bluebox... My savage hates it and so does my friends 700...
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
If there was no wind, I'd adjust a half minute to the left, then confirm the zero with groups at 200 and 300 yards, or out as far as you intend to shoot in the field. Don't assume that a 200 yard zero will give your 130 a 6" drop at 300, it might not. If you intend to shoot out to 300 or more, shoot at those ranges to make sure you know what happens out there, rather than depending on a computer generated prediction of your bullet's path. You might find for example that at longish ranges, your point of impact has moved left or right of center. Make a note of the drop and drift at ranges beyond your zero range, and make up a range card you can refer to for the correct hold-off at any given range. If you intend to shoot much beyond 100 yards, make up a range card for each different load you use.
Beyond that, don't be too concerned with shooting groups with your hunting rifle, other than to confirm your zero from time to time. Its the first shot out of the barrel that's the most critical one. Besides, its much more interesting to set out game sized targets at nonspecific ranges and try to hit them with the first shot from field positions, under various wind and light conditions in the field, than it is to shoot 100 yard groups from the bench across a manicured lawn. And if you don't get out and shoot in crappy weather, you won't know how to shoot in crappy weather come hunting season. In the meantime, spend as much time with the rifle as possible.
Conduct dry firing drills while at home. When dry firing, try breaking the shot without moving a coin balanced on top of the barrel at the muzzle. Start with a quarter, then try to reduce the time it takes to break the shot. When you can break the shot quickly without disturbing the quarter, try a dime. Trigger control lies at the heart of good marksmanship. Practice cycling the bolt at your shoulder and reacquiring the target as quickly as possible after you've broken the shot, without neglecting your follow through.
When you find that target shooting is becoming less interesting, try physically stressing yourself, prior to making a shot. A short run, for example, will produce a similar physiological effect to arduous hunting conditions combined with the excitement of taking a shot on a live target. Don't restrict your practice to any one position. We're inclined to shoot only from prone because we tend to shoot best from prone, but when hunting you might have neither the time nor the conditions in which prone can be used. Often vegetation or terrain will block your view of the game when you are attempting a prone shot. So sitting, kneeling, and off hand are more frequently the viable positions in the field, and one needs to be aware of how and when to use natural rests should they be available. Of course if you are provided with a shot that can be taken from prone, you should act quickly to exploit its advantage, and consider it a gift from the gods.
Beyond that, don't be too concerned with shooting groups with your hunting rifle, other than to confirm your zero from time to time. Its the first shot out of the barrel that's the most critical one. Besides, its much more interesting to set out game sized targets at nonspecific ranges and try to hit them with the first shot from field positions, under various wind and light conditions in the field, than it is to shoot 100 yard groups from the bench across a manicured lawn. And if you don't get out and shoot in crappy weather, you won't know how to shoot in crappy weather come hunting season. In the meantime, spend as much time with the rifle as possible.
Conduct dry firing drills while at home. When dry firing, try breaking the shot without moving a coin balanced on top of the barrel at the muzzle. Start with a quarter, then try to reduce the time it takes to break the shot. When you can break the shot quickly without disturbing the quarter, try a dime. Trigger control lies at the heart of good marksmanship. Practice cycling the bolt at your shoulder and reacquiring the target as quickly as possible after you've broken the shot, without neglecting your follow through.
When you find that target shooting is becoming less interesting, try physically stressing yourself, prior to making a shot. A short run, for example, will produce a similar physiological effect to arduous hunting conditions combined with the excitement of taking a shot on a live target. Don't restrict your practice to any one position. We're inclined to shoot only from prone because we tend to shoot best from prone, but when hunting you might have neither the time nor the conditions in which prone can be used. Often vegetation or terrain will block your view of the game when you are attempting a prone shot. So sitting, kneeling, and off hand are more frequently the viable positions in the field, and one needs to be aware of how and when to use natural rests should they be available. Of course if you are provided with a shot that can be taken from prone, you should act quickly to exploit its advantage, and consider it a gift from the gods.
My range is 100Y max... I have to go to the woods if I want to shoot greater distances.
I was just hopping for a better group... My savage 10-FCPk does 3/4 inch group with factory ammo out of the box... So I was a bit disappointed in this grouping....
But this gun was purchased for deer. I did some reasearch last night and everybody is saying this riffle does MOA at 100. I will have to practice a bit more... The 10-FCPk is alot heavier and I think its helping me correct my bad shooting habits...
I was just hopping for a better group... My savage 10-FCPk does 3/4 inch group with factory ammo out of the box... So I was a bit disappointed in this grouping....
But this gun was purchased for deer. I did some reasearch last night and everybody is saying this riffle does MOA at 100. I will have to practice a bit more... The 10-FCPk is alot heavier and I think its helping me correct my bad shooting habits...
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Well got my Harris is the mail today... ( 75$ shipped from brownells ) I must say this is my 1st and last Harris...Those springs are uglier then I expected ... Its no Atlas that's for sure....
Range trip this weekend with new ammo.... cant wait...
Range trip this weekend with new ammo.... cant wait...
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- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
Worry less about how the Harris looks and more about how well it functions. The Harris has some features that make it a top choice, such as being able to adjust the tension of the cant. My high priced PH bipod, might look nicer, but it doesn't really work any better than, or even as well as my Harris. Neither does a Harris require the installation of a pic rail on the underside of your forend as does the Atlas.
When you're shooting with the bi-pod, load up the legs with forward pressure as this makes repeat shots more uniform. Consider using a rear bag under the butt as well. Something I do with my bi-pods is to place a soft contact under them, frequently I'll use a pair of gloves, to prevent hard surface to hard surface contact, or to prevent the legs from digging down into a granular surface like loose sand. I must be the exception to the rule however, as I've never seen anyone else do this.
When you're shooting with the bi-pod, load up the legs with forward pressure as this makes repeat shots more uniform. Consider using a rear bag under the butt as well. Something I do with my bi-pods is to place a soft contact under them, frequently I'll use a pair of gloves, to prevent hard surface to hard surface contact, or to prevent the legs from digging down into a granular surface like loose sand. I must be the exception to the rule however, as I've never seen anyone else do this.
I'm just no impressed with it compared to my Atlas... But its not a fair comparison since the Atlas is 3X the price...
I just spent some time playing with it and its not what I was expecting... I think I will order a front rail. This way I can use my Atlas on it... But for now I have something that will do...
I still haven't got used the the whole bag thing... More practice will help me out.
I just spent some time playing with it and its not what I was expecting... I think I will order a front rail. This way I can use my Atlas on it... But for now I have something that will do...
I still haven't got used the the whole bag thing... More practice will help me out.
- Location
- Niagara Region, Ontario. For now
hometownhero
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Toon Town, Sk
Savage Axis?
Would group better anyways.
Agreed. Would look similar as well
