Loving my Lebel! 1st time reloader. Need help reloading 8mm lebel.. much appreciated!

L

lone.gunman

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Hello everyone,

so I went ahead and purchased myself a French 1892 8mm Lebel Revolver,

if you guys would like pics, I could share them - I absolutely LOVE This gun...

it was recently seen in Sherlock Holmes :cool:

are there any other antique revolvers like that ???? (back to original point)

with the assistance of a few CGN members, I get the overall process of reloading the 8mm lebel.

So I can purchase the bullets from a CGN member, then I can get the primer (small pistol - Federal champion) and the powder (unique, was told 2.8g to the 108g bullet)..

Firstly - I am having a difficult time finding the brass - can anyone direct me towards a source for safe brass.

Secondly - is there anywhere to get the fiocchi 8mm lebel pistol rounds in Canada?

Thirdly - if I had the bullet, primer, powder, and brass - what do I do? do I need any tools?

Thank you very much,

LGM
 
Yes you are ahead of yourself.

Reloading for antiques is more the destination than the start of the journey. It isn't the place to learn to reload as much greater care and experience is required to ensure that you don't build a hand grenade out of your antique.

Start by learning to reload for something modern like 9mm where commercial brass and bullets are available and load data comes from a reliable source and not Joe on the Internet.

-Learn about proper case prep and checking for signs of head separation/potential failure
-Learn about OAL and headspace and why they are important.
-Learn about the different powder types and burn speeds so that you understand why powder X is the right powder for your application.
-Learn about bullet diameter and hardness and why they are important. (This is why you start with commercial bullets and not something cast by Joe.)
-Learn about load development and max pressure as well as pressure curves. (This is why you start with load data from a reliable source)
-Learn to examine your spent brass and identify signs of over pressure.

While learning to reload it is in your best interest and the best interest of those you will be near while shooting that you develop skills, method and techniques that ensure consistent and reliable reloads. (No double charges, No missing charges, primers all have anvils. etc.)

In my opinion, after you safely reloaded many thousands of the more common calibers and have mastered the skills and techniques required to be safe then you can consider reloading for antiques. Now you should spend some time learning about black powder and its variants before you start as most of the old guns were designed to use black powder loads. The safest method is to work up to loads that copy what the firearm was originally designed to use. By now you will have probably mastered software like Quickload for load development which will be very helpful for this work. You will probably casting your own bullets by this time and will then understand why hardness, proper lubrication and bullet diameter are important. You will know why it is important to slug the bore on your antique to ensure you use the right diameter bullet no matter what the caliber data-sheet says.

Your antique was built in an age when they didn't know nearly as much about metallurgy as we do today. As a result it is inherently much more sensitive to the loads you put through it and much greater care and attention is required to reload safely for it.
 
research my friend.. there are always more guns to be had.. all depends how much you have to spend. Swiss revolver would be one to have but they are rare here., any of the nagants as well..
also get a book on reloading as said above and learn about it. or read here in reloading section as well. learning on 9mm is great idea if you have such.
Ammo is not available but can be found as well as Brass occasionally on EE. You can use shortened 32-20 or 7,62 nagant brass will work. Best way to reload is to get reloading dies but they are about $80. So of course you need a press and a scale... I use digital.
I use trailboss powder. fills the case best and i load them by hand weigh every case before and after charge to make sure is exact as this powder can spike up in pressure significantly. I have them loaded 2.5 to 2.8 gr max.......2.5 is good start, 2.8 Is somewhat a mild load compared to some i have heard of i do not recommend loading any hotter than that without serious experience. Also make sure you slug the barrel to make sure the bullet size as the can vary. most i have seen are .329, .330. Mine is tight at .326
This info is informational purpose only. I take no responsibility whatsoever as you use it at your own risk.
 
Good advice, so far!

I would have to say though, that the relative lack of responses, is quite telling!!

The perception is that you are, at this time, in over your head. Reloading can be a seriously dangerous endeavor, and I imagine that, ESPECIALLY considering your previous missteps, on this forum, there are those who will not touch this thread, even with a 10' pole.
 
Just a simple suggestion here, truly to assist you: This IS a complex process. I suggest a simple thing that will assist you without a lot of cash layout: You can get into basic reloading for a common caliber like a .30-30, .45-70 or .303 Brit etc for quite cheaply using a Lee Loader. Find a relatively inexpensive Lee Enfield sporter or something along those lines (you can find Lee Enfield sporters for 100-150$). Set the Lebel aside in the safe for now. Read up on reloading (pick up a Lyman reloader guide or one of the many other options - don't only read the internet) and practice reloading with that set up extensively to give yourself the basic knowledge and fundamental understanding necessary to reload. Read and practice -and repeat - then you will be able to proceed onto more complex reloading in confidence.

I have a few antiques in my safe, a couple of which I didn't fire for many YEARS until I had researched carefully not only the load data but also the safety and overall function of the firearm. And until I really understood what reloading for these calibers meant...

Only my suggestion but really is offered for your benefit :) In the end it is entirely up to you - Happy & safe shooting whatever you decide
 
Wow thanks guys,

I was all ready to order the lee press, primer, powder, dies, bullets and brass.

It sounded like an interesting hobby to get into.

But now I guess I have to sell this revolver - what is the point of owning such a beautiful piece if I can't fire it. Really heart breaking.

Cheers
 
Bullet mold NEI .330 diameter $120.00 8MM Lebel Dies CH4_DTool and Die $150.00 32-20 brass shortened anealed and fire formed.
Lee realoading press and powder measure & scale will work. bullet luber and sizer 2-300.00. Bullet sizing die and top punch $50.00 .
Round this stuff up read reloading manual and get experience reloader to help and away you go.
 
I would like to see some pictures of your revolver and if I had any information on re-loading for it I would pass it on, as it is I don't know really anything about that type of gun or ammo.
Don't give up the idea of re-loading for it and maybe spend some time reading the posts on the Reloading forum, if the gun was made for black powder cartridges it is probably best to stick that as shooting smokeless opens another can of worms.
 
32 20 brass cut down and sized, .323 lead cast bullets from 109-111 gr's, press, dies, scale and unique powder.

I never go over 3.3gr's, some go 3.5, I don't recommend it. I have heard people using upwards of 4.0gr's strongly don't reccomend that!.

Be very careful, these lebels are very well made guns with above average metal for the time, but they are still very old.

I don't take any responsibility for the info I'm giving you. Be Careful.
 
DEZ said:
Bullet mold NEI .330 diameter $120.00 8MM Lebel Dies CH4_DTool and Die $150.00 32-20 brass shortened anealed and fire formed.
Lee realoading press and powder measure & scale will work. bullet luber and sizer 2-300.00. Bullet sizing die and top punch $50.00 .
Round this stuff up read reloading manual and get experience reloader to help and away you go.
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you dont need a lubersizer pan lubing works nicely
 
NorthCoastBigBore said:
Just a simple suggestion here, truly to assist you: This IS a complex process. I suggest a simple thing that will assist you without a lot of cash layout: You can get into basic reloading for a common caliber like a .30-30, .45-70 or .303 Brit etc for quite cheaply using a Lee Loader. Find a relatively inexpensive Lee Enfield sporter or something along those lines (you can find Lee Enfield sporters for 100-150$). Set the Lebel aside in the safe for now. Read up on reloading (pick up a Lyman reloader guide or one of the many other options - don't only read the internet) and practice reloading with that set up extensively to give yourself the basic knowledge and fundamental understanding necessary to reload. Read and practice -and repeat - then you will be able to proceed onto more complex reloading in confidence.

I have a few antiques in my safe, a couple of which I didn't fire for many YEARS until I had researched carefully not only the load data but also the safety and overall function of the firearm. And until I really understood what reloading for these calibers meant...

Only my suggestion but really is offered for your benefit :) In the end it is entirely up to you - Happy & safe shooting whatever you decide
Click to expand...

Why should he start reloading rifle ammo? Much more complex than revolvers. I recommend reading one book about reloading, get the components and do it. Whatever people say, buy the cheapest Lee progressive press, don't start melting lead, just buy the bullets, plenty available at cheap prices from jethunter here I believe, buy 32-20 or better, buy the real 8 mm brass, dies are expensive since only one company makes them. Still quite an investment.

I sold all my 8 mm Lebel stuff as mentioned before, it's a small caliber and a comparable big investment.
 
Really weird since people told you all that b4 in your other post. Also ask the seller to post positive feedback, so your one negative will be equated (is that a word?).



lone.gunman said:
Wow thanks guys,

I was all ready to order the lee press, primer, powder, dies, bullets and brass.

It sounded like an interesting hobby to get into.

But now I guess I have to sell this revolver - what is the point of owning such a beautiful piece if I can't fire it. Really heart breaking.

Cheers
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scianna54 said:
Really weird since people told you all that b4 in your other post.
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Not wierd at all actually, seems he's using the EE for profit seeking while borderline using this post to advertise with no intent of reloading what so ever.

lone.gunman said:
Was on the EE for 1100 I got it for pretty much 1000$
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And this is listed at $1100 plus shipping, 8 days after confirmed purchase off of the EE for "pretty much $1000"? Hope whoever buys it has the good sense to knock him back to $900.

Good to see the membership has spent their time helping you only to have it on the EE the next day. Good luck getting help in the future :cheers:.
 
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cyclone said:
It's a straight-walled cartridge fired in an over-engineered revolver.....:yingyang:...light smokless ought not to be a huge problem....:wave:
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Unless you have never reloaded before (like the OP) and you have no idea what would be considered a 'light load'. He probably doesn't even know that the loads some people have been suggesting are in grains and not grams.

Firing an antique with a cartridge that has too much smokeless powder in it is the easiest way to blow the gun up and hurt yourself and others. It isn't the only way however.

To the OP (lone gunman). Please put the antique in the safe and work towards getting your RPal first. Then purchase a modern firearm in a common caliber. Learn to reload on that. When you have mastered that, then you can think about reloading for your antique. Feed it lead bullets and be sure to slug the barrel first to verify the needed diameter.
 
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