What lube do you use?

So when using a FL die do you use the imperial wax on the body and the dry neck lube on the neck of the rifle cartridge?

Thanks
 
TrxR said:
So when using a FL die do you use the imperial wax on the body and the dry neck lube on the neck of the rifle cartridge?

Thanks
Click to expand...

You could, but usually you'd use just one lube. If you're using Imperial, use it on the body and on the neck.

The idea of dry powder lubes for neck sizing is that you don't have something "wet" that you have to clean off your case.

If you use bushing dies for neck sizing, and you don't need to use an expander button, you can usually get away without any lube at all.
 
TrxR said:
So when using a FL die do you use the imperial wax on the body and the dry neck lube on the neck of the rifle cartridge?

Thanks
Click to expand...

rnbra-shooter said:
You could, but usually you'd use just one lube. If you're using Imperial, use it on the body and on the neck.

The idea of dry powder lubes for neck sizing is that you don't have something "wet" that you have to clean off your case.

If you use bushing dies for neck sizing, and you don't need to use an expander button, you can usually get away without any lube at all.
Click to expand...

I usually avoid putting any lube on the outside of the neck or shoulder of the case.
However, to lube the inside of the neck to accommodate the expander button, I have a small jar of #7½ shot with a teaspoon of powdered graphite in it.

Before I lube the outside of the case body, I dip the neck in the graphited shot, give it a twist and then lube the body.

This makes the withdrawal of the expander button easy, and leaves no residue in the neck to attract powder granules.

I just put the lid on the shot jar and give it a shake occasionally to distribute the graphite evenly.

Add powdered graphite as needed.

As rnbra shooter said, if using a bushing die and no expander, no inside lube is needed.

Regards, Eagleye.
 
As I've posted earlier, I use Imperial exclusively now. I have carbide resizing dies for my handgun calibers but for cartridge calibers that require lube, I use Imperial. One of the few products of RCBS I wasn't too fond of was their resizing lube. While it worked well, I found it to be stickier and harder to remove than most others.

With some of the mention being made about dry lubes, especially on the inside of the neck, I thought I'd give it a try. Prior to my retirement, remembering a very fine graphite powder I had in the shop, I went to a local auto parts outlet and ordered a container of it. The product comes in five grades from flake to the 'microfyne', which is what I got. I'll have to give it a whirl with my next batch of bottle neck rifle reloads.

The powder is very similar to another powdered graphite product you can get at hardware stores for putting in locks as a dry lube. Powdered Graphite Lubricant made by Victor. It comes in a small plastic tube with a fine nozzle for inserting into locks and it's something I've also used a couple of times in cold dry weather, cleaning off all oil residue on the rifle bolt and then applying the powder in it's place.
 
Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax, RCBS Case Lube II on a pad, and sometimes motor oil like Amsoil on MG fired cases.
 
mobil 1 5w30 for rifle. makes sizing SO easy. wet ss tumble to clean.... thats the issue.

one shot for pistol, but I hate the sticky residue.
 
canoetrpr said:
Anyone know where Imperial can be acquired from in Canada? US based stores won't ship it as it is classified as a 'chemical'
Click to expand...

WSS north edmonton has it in stock.

you can get it from brownells as well.

I started with lee sizing cream, tried RCBS, found it sticky, hard to apply to the pad and after writing off a redding FL die (jammed so bad I pulled the entire bottom of the case off but the top was still jammed in) i switched back to Lee. I ordered some imperial last time I did a brownells order. I will never go back, imperial requires less per casing, glides better in the dies, is easier to clean off, and ends up costing less overall.
 
I can't believe nobody has mentioned Hornady One Shot! It is by far the fastest easiest lubing method I've found yet.
Put 10 brass on a RCBS case lube pad
Spray neck and soulder area lightly
1/2 turn
Spray again lightly
Roll back and forth
Done!

I've used Imperial and Unique, I can't imagine lubing cases one by one anymore. At least with RCBS you lube the pad and roll 10 or so back and forth...
 
one shot doesnt lube enough for 223. it's fine for 9mm.
I've had 3 223 cases stuck in 20, so I stopped.

So far the quickest way I have found is mobil1 on my gloves, hand mix the brass until they are all just a tad oily, and then batch resize and wash. of course the wet tumbling is starting to piss me off.... so I would prefer another option followed by dry tumbling.
 
Cabela's in an eight oz pump spray. Two quick shots does twenty 7.62x39 at a time. Give them a shake in the tin and five minutes to let the carrier flash off. Resize.

Done about a thousand rounds so far and still have seven ounces left.
 
Noob question here, sorry to derail the thread. I see alot of people talking about spray on case lube or rolling cases around in a container with lube in it, wouldn't you be getting some of the lube inside the case? And if you get it in the case would't that mess up the powder when you charge the case?
 
After I get done with the milking I use my favorite case lube, it keeps your hands utterly soft.
(it even heals those pus filled sores on your brass)

bagbalm.jpg


Laugh2:dancingbanana:Laugh2
 
I just use a freezer baggy dump a bunch of 45 brass in spray it, close the bag and rub the bag of brass in my hands. Then open the baggy and lets it off gas the propellant.
 
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