how much of an issue is rust on gun?

[Campbery]

recently bought an as new H&R handi rifle, upon further inspection found 1/2 dozen small areas on the external barrel with pitted rust, each no bigger than 2-3mm. After a search I soaked the areas in oil, dried and rubbed with 00 steel wool, after I tried a brass brush. I can still feel and see the rust. If I take care of this barrel will the rust spread? how much of an issue with this be? Thanks.

 

[Jesuswon]

that happened to my Springfield Operator,i keep steel wooling and oiling it but the rust allways comes back. very sad :O(

 

[sheephunter]

On the outside of the barrel it's not a huge issue but I'd be worried about the inside of the barrel...there it is a huge deal.

 

[blasted_saber]

Keep it well oiled. Every time I touch one of my guns I oil it.

What you're feeling is pitting from the rust. No amount of oil will get rid of that.

 

[Campbery]

thanks guys, bore looks great, seems to be isolated the left outer barrel

 

[savagelover81]

You could try some light emery cloth and then get some cold bluing compound to touch it up. I have had this on a few older used guns in the past.

 

[Northman999]

From a practical perspective, rust on the outside means little, but it will always come back and will eventually get worse.

I hate rust myself, and anything new that came with rust would be returned, ASAP.

Most used firearms that I get, if they have areas that get rust, they get refinished, even if it is just a degreasing and a few coats of spray paint. Like I said, I hate rust.

 

[blargon]

good candidate for blasting and arma coat. won't remove pits, but it wont rust anymore.

 

[philthygeezer]

I put renaissance wax on a blued rifle, followed up with a coat of Boeshield on the wax coat, and break free CLP in the action. This method has been pretty good for me so far. I hate rust!

Lee Valley sells an archival wax similar to Renaissance wax. This and above were designed to preserve and protect metal surfaces without samaging them. Renaissance wax os used in museums.

One can also use Johnson's paste wax or automotive wax with no abrasives, but they can yellow or corrode a little over long period of time.

Almost wonder if automotive clear-coat paint would work like a charm...

 

[icehunter121]

I put renaissance wax on a blued rifle, followed up with a coat of Boeshield on the wax coat, and break free CLP in the action. This method has been pretty good for me so far. I hate rust!

Lee Valley sells an archival wax similar to Renaissance wax. This and above were designed to preserve and protect metal surfaces without samaging them. Renaissance wax os used in museums.

One can also use Johnson's paste wax or automotive wax with no abrasives, but they can yellow or corrode a little over long period of time.

Almost wonder if automotive clear-coat paint would work like a charm...

Clear coat on a barrel and receiver...in one word ....NO....

 

[philthygeezer]

Clear coat on a barrel and receiver...in one word ....NO....

I've never tried it. Cars are made of steel that rusts and they get painted. Surely auto bodies undergo a high degree of flexure...?

At any rate, the archival wax and Boeshield seems to work like a charm.

 

[icehunter121]

I've never tried it. Cars are made of steel that rusts and they get painted. Surely auto bodies undergo a high degree of flexure...?

At any rate, the archival wax and Boeshield seems to work like a charm.

I have been painting autobody in the trade now for 27 years.Here is what you will get,first off it has to be throughly degreased,auto body paint will not stick to any non sanded surface,then you have a mil build up from the coats of clear,then if it gets marked the whole thing has to be resanded and the scratches sanded out of the clear coat....thats just a quick rundown on it. A total info session to do this would take 3 hours of my time to type it in here.

 

[Homesteader]

Clear coat on a barrel and receiver...in one word ....NO....

I don't know. I had a heavy barrel chromoly in the white, for years. When I got it the original owner had sprayed it in clear coat, looked like stainless. Looked great several years later, although it was only a bench gun.

 

[hoytcanon]

Rust is an abomination on a firearm... But it is NOT viral... It will NOT "spread" unless you don't do your part and continue to keep the gun properly lubricated... AND air dried... One of the biggest culprits is moving a gun from a sub-freezing environment into a warm environment and leaving it in a guncase... Condensation will form on all external and internal metal surfaces and will sit there for an extended period of time... Ultimately causing rust. Once rust has eaten (for lack of a better term; "eroded" perhaps) the finish, that particular spot will be more susceptible to rust in the future. Four ought (0000) steel wool and cold blue can largely assist with this dilemma. Keeping your firearm dry is even more important than keeping it oiled/lubed... Because moisture caused by condensation can form UNDER the lubricant. I am a tad OCD, so any rusted guns are stripped and refinished... That's just me, rust on the outside of the barrel will have zero effect on performance.

 

[RoscoeP]

Get finer steel wool, the really fine stuff used for finishing wood, forgot # but it has lots of 0's like 0000. Use with oil and it won't hurt the blueing. Cheers Roscoe

 

[amosfella]

One might try rust bluing, as it holds oil next to the steel better... Essentially rust is it's own enemy then... Prevents itself from more rust...

 

[Ardent]

Much as I hate to admit it, as a died in the wool blued and walnut sort, I go out of my way to buy stainless guns today, just seems a better way.

 

[Magellann]

Keep it well oiled. Every time I touch one of my guns I oil it.

What you're feeling is pitting from the rust. No amount of oil will get rid of that.

Thats exactly what I do as well!

 

[Magellann]

I put renaissance wax on a blued rifle, followed up with a coat of Boeshield on the wax coat, and break free CLP in the action. This method has been pretty good for me so far. I hate rust!

Lee Valley sells an archival wax similar to Renaissance wax. This and above were designed to preserve and protect metal surfaces without samaging them. Renaissance wax os used in museums.

One can also use Johnson's paste wax or automotive wax with no abrasives, but they can yellow or corrode a little over long period of time.



Almost wonder if automotive clear-coat paint would work like a charm...

Thanks for the tip, I'll try that.

 

[Brutus]

Yeah, good advice here. I too hate rust, but it's really easy to go overboard and do more abrasive damage to the remaining finish, while trying to remove a few select spots on the outside.