My Tika T3 lite kicks a lot (30.06) - do I get a muzzle break?

I found the using a Lead Sled or similar devices for sighting in or load development for a heavy recoiling rifle, ie .375, .450, the point of impact is different than when I shoot without the device. The rifle moves differently in recoil with me behind it, thereby affecting POI. Now I use the sled for some parts of load development but shoot off of the bags with a normal grip on the rifle for sighting in and shooting proper groups and then confirm POI in various field positions.
I also use a PAST recoil pad for these non-Sled sessions. They do make a difference.
.30-06 is generally the recoil limit of a majority of shooters. A 'Lite' rifle is not going to help that.
 
Lee_Enfield_Lover said:
Thanks all for the replies. I'm going to go for the PAST recoil pad. Glad to hear from the guys who tried the muzzle break and said its not such a good idea.

- T
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I think this is the best route... and if the PAST doesn't work for you, you can start looking at other options. I use a PAST 1/4" recoil pad at the range and it made a night-and-day difference in how much I enjoyed long strings of shots with my 30-06. I recently did some 180gr load development and had no issues with discomfort during the range session. Plus, the pad isn't specific to your rifle, so when you move onto something else, you'll keep the same benefits.
 
Muzzlebreak is only good for hunting if you plan on wearing electronic hearing protection as even a 30-06 is going to leave your ears ringing for a long time after. I don't mind good quality electronic muffs as they also amplify the sounds around you and can work as a game ear. If it is a pencil thin barrel. Adding a break may be difficult due to wall thickness.
 
Aries- said:
If it is a pencil thin barrel. Adding a break may be difficult due to wall thickness.
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There are thousands of skinny barrels with brakes. They need to be precisely fitted.
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And there are many thousands of happy hunters with brakes who shoot much more accurately with out the recoil factor. It's a personal choice what you do. If a rifle is braked, it is best left on and only removed for ease of cleaning. It does change the harmonics of the barrel and point of impact and if you are a hand loader, your rifle may require a different load for best accuracy with the brake on or off.

And it a muzzle brake not break...

Talk about noise, I don't know of anyone who enjoys standing beside the muzzle of a 300 short mag or an .06 carbine when it is fired. If you are not wearing ear protection it doesn't matter if it is braked or not.
 
Go for the brake. Have a thread protector made at the same time, that way you have either option available. Thread protectors can be made so you have to look very close to tell anything has been changed. Getting a. 270 or a 7mm-08 would help a little but the T3 is SO light any round capable of taking big game will seem like it recoils a lot.
 
Add some weight to the recoil pad. If you google it guys have added weight to these t3 to lower the recoil pad. Do not add a muzzle break.
 
Imagine that, a light rifle that kicks a bit....

First thing to realize is that light rifles kick more than heavier rifles. If you want a light rifle you have to live with more recoil or you need to get a lighter caliber. There is a reason that the .270 winchester using 130 gr bullets was a favourite of sheep hunters carrying light rifles. Think about it.

Pachmyer Decelerator pad works. If it only bothers you at the bench, buy a slip on Pachmyer pad for $25 and use it while you're target shooting. You probably use heavier clothes and won't feel the recoil while you're hunting. The PAST Recoil Shield works good too.

If i were you i wouldn't get a muzzle brake - it's silly to put on a T3 Lite 30-06 and will destroy the resale value. If you can't shoot it, then get a different rifle that doesn't hurt you, which means you should avoid the lightweight rifles or get a lighter recoiling caliber.
 
I would not shoot a 30-06 at the range without a brake
Even my range 308 is getting a brake.

Fill the stock with lead shot. Huge difference.
 
I would not shoot a 30-06 at the range without a brake
Even my range 308 is getting a brake.

Fill the stock with lead shot. Huge difference.
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I don't own a single braked rifle, which includes my 300RUMs, and my 7mmSTWs, and my 338x8mmremmag, because I never saw a need for them. I also never bothered with a lead sled, for the same reason.
 
stubblejumper said:
I don't own a single braked rifle, which includes my 300RUMs, and my 7mmSTWs, and my 338x8mmremmag, because I never saw a need for them. I also never bothered with a lead sled, for the same reason.
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Every person is different. And recoil will hurt a skinny guy more than a large guy.
 
I don't think anyone has said it yet, but the lead sleds BREAK guns! Stocks & optics TAKE A HAMMERING when using the lead sleds... A rifle is ment to recoil & that 'give' means the gun doesn't have to soak up all that energy. Holding the gun in a lead sled means the gun takes the beating & results in damage...

Use a better recoil pad, use the PAST shield, try different ammo & my last choice would be the break on the gun due to increased noise.

Cheers
Jay
 
Every person is different. And recoil will hurt a skinny guy more than a large guy.
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Not necessarily, a lighter person is moved more by the recoil, whereas a heavy person that doesn't move with the recoil, has to absorb more of the recoil. This is why it is usually more comfortable to shoot heavier recoiling rifles standing up, rather than prone, or while seated at a bench.

I don't think anyone has said it yet, but the lead sleds BREAK guns! Stocks & optics TAKE A HAMMERING when using the lead sleds... A rifle is ment to recoil & that 'give' means the gun doesn't have to soak up all that energy. Holding the gun in a lead sled means the gun takes the beating & results in damage...
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Same principle as heavy person holding the firearm, vs light person holding the firearm. If you allow the gun to recoil, neither the firearm or the person has to absorb as much recoil. As well Lead sleds can effect the point of impact, so sighting in with one, isn't a good idea.
 
OP, does your rifle fit you properly?????

One thing I've noticed about new rifles lately is that they all have 13.5-14 inch stock lengths.

If you are shorter in stature or have shorter arms, that rifle won't fit you properly and felt recoil will be greater. Especially off a shooting bench. Your body is anchored in a chair while shooting off a bench. Only your shoulder is taking up the recoil.

You don't mention what cartridge your rifle is chambered for either.

T3 LIGHT. The name says it all. The less a rifle weighs, the more felt recoil on the shooters body will be noticed.

One thing though you will never feel or even hear the shot you take at a deer.

As for the bbl on the T3. They aren't any lighter than any standard rifle.

IMHO, muzzle brakes can cause a lot of extra issues you really don't need. First, increased noise levels, second, increased length. Third but not least, you can buy a heavier rifle, chambered in a cartridge you can handle for about the same amount it costs to mount a good brake. Not all of them work well, except in the minds of their makers.

The difference in felt recoil between the 30-06, 308Win, 270Win etc, is negligible, given that pressures and bullet weights are similar.

If your rifle is sighted in, you need practice and more practice OFF the bench. Bench shooting is fine but it lies to you, every time. You need to learn how to shoot well OFF HAND, from a kneeling position, from a prone position and a few other even more awkward positions.

In my old age, I have relented my capabilities to using a walking stick/monopod for off hand positions. I use a rest of some sort for every shot over 100 meters.

A really good, cheap target, is a package of circular pages, about 17 cm in diameter. That is the kill zone on game from deer to moose. Old aluminum foil pie plates work very well to. Set these targets out at different ranges, remember how your cross hairs in the scope look on target at those ranges. That is a very good way to measure ranges out to 300 meters as well. Some people get very good at this.

By the way, I absolutely hate shooting off the bench. I only do it when sighting in a rifle. Then, unless something seems awry, it's all done to imitate field conditions, where it really counts.
 
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I would say sell it on the EE and get something you can shoot comfortably. It doesnt make sense to me to hang onto a rifle thats uncofortable to shoot when there are other options out there. Maybe try a lighter recoiling caliber? A rifle with a different stock design that fits you better, maybe a longer LOP? Stay away from lightweight rifles in heavier calibers. If you dont want to sell it maybe try a B&C stock for it? I think I saw them on the prophet river site?
 
Look into an aftermarket stock for it, this is a good site to get an idea of whats available for your Tikka,
http://www.webshop.roedale.de/index.php?cat=c124_tikka.html&language=en
Obviously you'll need to find a more local supplier.
My other suggestion is try a softer shooting load, nothing to be gained by shooting hot loads and having your accuracy so out the window from excessive recoil.
Having owned a 270 WIN Tikka and now a 308, I've seen a huge difference in how the rifles handle with various loads.
If you are set on staying with your hot hand loads, then get yourself a good gel pad for your shoulder for the range.
 
The slip on Pachmayer recoil pad is great for bench shooting, I use it a lot with the heavier recoiling hunting rifles on the bench. It lengthens the LOP by an inch and that's usually good for most people bench shooting a hunting rifle because we tend to get too close to the scope anyway. And it fits on lots of differnt rifles so you don't need to buy one for every rifle.
 
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