The SL8 Mods, Info and FAQ Thread

smooth operator said:
is there anywhere you can order g36 barrels that will ship to canada? with the other pieces included preferably like piston and rod
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HK will not ship G36 barrels of any model to civilians. I've tried through wolverine. You cannot order them from retailers.

Your only options are to find a used one for sale in Canada or find a used one in the US or Europe and have it legally exported to you here. Both options are rather hard to find, but not completely impossible.

The other option is to have a barrel custom made to you desired length. The barrel nut and gas system are easier to find and import.
 
uncledillers said:
Hey boys, just hoping some of you guys that had reloaded would share your load data.
Thought it would be a good resource to supplement this thread.

Iam about to start a load using 69g SMK over CFE 223 cci br primers Ill will post results as I go.
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this is from my post earier in this thread (number 724 on page 73):

I recently started working on a load for the same bullet [69gr SMK]. I used cci standard small rifle primers for all of my loads. 24 grains of varget and 2.26 OAL showed the best group at .82" for a 5 shot group. I'm hoping with a little work I can get it to the .5" range, but we'll see. Surprisingly I had a .83" 5 shot group with 55 gr moly coated hornady v-max's and 23 gr of varget with an OAL of 2.303". Hopefully I can improve this load as well.


Since then I have worked on both loads and the 55 gr v-max has actually turned out to be a bit better than the SMK's accuracy wise (i think the best group I ended up shooting when I still had my 15x scope on it was in the .65" range, but don't quote me on that). I was disappointed with the performance of the SMK's on coyotes so I am going to shoot through the remaining SMK bullets I have loaded and switch over to the v-max's exclusively. I will try to remember to post the final load I ended up with for both loads when I get home this weekend.
 
Lyndo said:
this is from my post earier in this thread (number 724 on page 73):

I recently started working on a load for the same bullet [69gr SMK]. I used cci standard small rifle primers for all of my loads. 24 grains of varget and 2.26 OAL showed the best group at .82" for a 5 shot group. I'm hoping with a little work I can get it to the .5" range, but we'll see. Surprisingly I had a .83" 5 shot group with 55 gr moly coated hornady v-max's and 23 gr of varget with an OAL of 2.303". Hopefully I can improve this load as well.


Since then I have worked on both loads and the 55 gr v-max has actually turned out to be a bit better than the SMK's accuracy wise (i think the best group I ended up shooting when I still had my 15x scope on it was in the .65" range, but don't quote me on that). I was disappointed with the performance of the SMK's on coyotes so I am going to shoot through the remaining SMK bullets I have loaded and switch over to the v-max's exclusively. I will try to remember to post the final load I ended up with for both loads when I get home this weekend.
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just checked my loads:

55gr Hornady V-max moly coated
23.0 gr. varget
CCI small rifle primers
2.260 OAL


69 gr SMK
24.0 gr. varget
CCI small rifle primers
2.260 OAL
 
I am trying to move the trigger group to my HERA gen2, and have encountered a problem. The pins for the trigger and sear are 0.157". Inside the HERA, there are two little plates embedded in the sides of the housing, either side of the trigger. The holes for the pins in these plates are 0.149 to 0.151".
Should I try to enlarge the holes, or send it back?
 
This conversion kit is a load of crap. I used a drill to enlarge the holes in the plates just enough, pins are tight but do fit. Then I discover the original safety spring is too long for the conversion kit. The plunger that goes down into the pistol grip, the hole that it goes into is closer to the safety lever in the conversion kit then in the original stock.
And now I see the buffer assembly has to be switched over, of course the instructions do not mention this. Anyone know an easy way to get a roll pin out?
 
Done! Biggest pain in the ass ever. This rifle had better shoot frickin' laser beams, or HK is never getting another cent from me.
 
Not sure if this has been posted yet, but the Pmags for the G36 will work in canadian model SL8's with a slight modification to the magazine leaving the gun untouched.
 
I don't know who has any in stock. Does it have to be the HK style 3 point?
I really did not like the 3 point sling on my SL8. I had the factory HK sling. I ended up getting a BFG 2 point sling and took the HK hooks off the 3 point.
 
TheGamer### said:
It's easy. Go to Home Depot. They have those wrenches with the rubber band (looks like a can opener). You don't need special tools other then that for removing any barrels from that point on. Lol
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Gamer - How do you plan to turn the barrel nut with that device? How do you plan to control the torque setting on re-installation?

15-C - the Armorer's Manual specifies the use of a receiver trunion/mandrel and a barrel nut wrench to remove/replace the barrel, there is a photo on the first page of this thread. It also requires that the nut be re-torqued to a specific setting of 66 ft/lbs (double check for yourself, don't rely on me).

The torque setting is critical as it affects the headspace. This can't be stressed enough as a safety issue.

A few people around here have the wrenches as someone ran a batch of them a while back. But I would not attempt to replace it yourself unless you really know what you are doing and are comfortable. Certainly don't listen to everything you read on the forums without doing you own research if you plan to do this yourself. I believe Dlask was making aftermarket barrels at some point, so that would suggest to me they have the tools to remove/replace the barrel.

Good luck!
 
So in other words... nobody here being a gunsmith really should be doing any of it without a micrometer... LOL.

Tell that to the guys who routinely replace their barrels with nothing more then the barrel wrench.

On the SL8s It's easy. And I've had no problems... but sure... yeah Get all the tools you need to feel that little bit more safer. Worth the negative effects I suppose.

Honestly to remove it, you can use a belt, wrap it around, grip it as hard as you can, and it'll come off. It's not rocket science some make it out to be.
 
Torque is very important on the SL8 because if its loose it will effect accuracy and to tight could crack your receiver. Torque does not set headspace, but its always a good idea to check it with a NOGO gauge
 
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Let's not get all of our knickers in a knot. I didn't say you have to be a gunsmith to change a barrel. We can all do it with the right tools, although personally I would not do so without a torque wrench. When Pierce built my switch-barrel rig they said to make sure it is torqued the correct amount so that my headspace stays repeatable after barrel changes.

Gamer - I've never tried it on my SL8, but how does turning the barrel loosen the barrel nut? How do you grip the barrel nut during re-install when the nut is buried inside the receiver? If you are not gripping the barrel nut, how would you re-install the barrel after?

Dsiwy - I don't know the specifics behind it for an SL8 since it's design uses a barrel extension sleeve mounted into the receiver using a guide pin, but the H&K Amorers Manual very clearly says that torque affects headspace. From what I can see on the schematics (and consistent with other types of actions) under-torquing could lead to too much headspace, so I agree with your point about checking with at least a No-Go. I know that when a smith first installs/chambers a barrel they (some) anticipate the difference between hand tightening the action and fully torquing the barrel into the action. And there definitely can be a noticeable difference in the headspace on Rem 700 type action (as demonstrated by the slight change in effort to operate the bolt) and I can't see how it would be any different for the SL8.

I'll put my money where my mouth is and say that anyone in Calgary or Saskatoon that wants to borrow the correct tools need only ask and I'll be happy to loan you mine.

EDIT - Fingers crossed the photos will work. I don't post pictures often (or maybe ever).





 
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